u/nutarvidetlugnt

Here is my latest try to make an enamel dial. This time I tried wet packing on the front side. It takes significantly longer time. The counter-enamel was applied with enamel glue. The biggest difference is that the total thickness is now 0.7 mm. starting from a 0.3 mm copper disc and 3 layers of enamel: a counter-enamel, a wet-packing layer, and a finishing layer (sifting). I still can't figure out how to protect the edge from oxidation. It's much better with using wet packing technique but it is there. Tbh, it's visible much more on the video and pictures than irl. I think I am ready to make a dial I actually want! I just need to figure out how to fix dial feet.

Another try to minimize warping during firing. This time I acquired enamel glue. The idea was to apply it on both sides before first firing. Pictures represent the best and the worst tries. I used airbrush to apply the glue.

First try I diluted the glue and sprayed way too much so it collected into droplets. The last image shows the result. The last try was a lot better but not perfect. I will try to use undiluted glue next time.

However, the final result was quite good - almost no warping at all. The discs are 0.3 mm thick. With 3 levels enamel I get a little under 0.6 mm at the edge and 0.8 mm over the dial.

I also try to make one test matte. It was not bad but I'll try with another color.

Next time I am making a dial!

I posted a while ago my go at a kintsugi-dial. I wasn't too happy with the result so I gave a new try with a much clearer result. I think it's visible if you compare the dial in the watch with the last image. The watch case is Namoki NMK932 but I used a thicker crystal to make this effect. I also like how the chapter ring is projected through the crystal.

Finally done with my kintsugi-project! Is there any more classic combo than black and gold? Instead of just painting kintsugi, I really sawed the dial in three pieces just to glue it back together again using epoxy. I used sensitive masking tape to protected the dial. First try I used ordinary masking tape and it removed the color from the dial completely. I also used several layers of tape: to protect the dial from epoxy and gold glitter.

I posted a kintsugi dial previously but wasn't too happy with the result. Much cleaner work this time around. I am waiting for the epoxy to harden and try to finish the build tomorrow.

Warping was quite significant first try without counter-enamel. This time I tested to enamel both sides. Warping is still there but not nearly as much. Working with both sides introduce another challenge - oxidation. I used vinegar on one disk (not on the picture). It removed oxidation but it also destroyed enamel. Then I tried to remove it using sandpaper. That took too long, I gave up and the result was uneven. The last disk I didn't even try to remove the oxidation. That effected the color; as the oxidation is black, it takes over completely. I have an idea what to do next time.

Why buy an enamel dial when you can spend a lot of time on internet learning about how it is done then decide to buy a kiln, enamel powders, tools, and make it yourself?!

Here are results of the first try. I went for two layers with no counter-enamel using 60 mesh sifter. For the second one I used graphite stamp right after I took it out of the kiln. However you can see that the dial is warped. I think counter-enamel layer is a must. I'll try it next time.

I've made my first kintsugi dial. First I used a bit of ordinary masking tape but the adhesive was too strong which resulted in the color coating followed with the tape. Sensitive tape worked much better. I made a mistake with epoxy and it hardened too quickly. Therefore the lines are little uneven. Not perfect but acceptable for the first dial.