How Many Movments Did You Sacrafice?
How many movments did you guys break before you could do a service right? I am 1/6 on movments at the moment, it is not looking promising for this hobby.
How many movments did you guys break before you could do a service right? I am 1/6 on movments at the moment, it is not looking promising for this hobby.
I’ve read the stem removal has potential for damaging the keyless works on the ETA2824-2. I’ve read you have to pull the stem fully out and use a flat head screw driver of 1 to 1.2 diameter to then push in very gently to remove the stem. I’ve not done this yet as a bit nervous. If the proper procedure is followed is it still possible to get issues ? Or if follow procedure exactly it will be safe ? Many thanks - just a bit nervous here 😀
Please forgive me if this has been asked a million times. And if so, please point me in the right direction for a thread that captures what I need… Thank you.
I’m looking to get into watchmaking. I’ve always had an interest in horology & own several watches of varying complexities, but I’d like to start tinkering and understanding more about the mechanics.
Ultimately my goal would be to be able to service my own watches. But before I go too deep down this path, I just want to tinker with some cheap movements & learn at my own pace.
I’ve seen kits online but they seem overpriced for what they are. Really I’d like to strip down an Asian movement and rebuild. I’m less concerned about building a watch and more interested in the servicing aspect.
What equipment should I look at to get started? What movements would you buy, and are there any “must have” tools that make life easier?
No budget limit really. I’d rather “buy once” than buy cheap and have to buy twice. I’d rather have the right tools than struggle to set hands or press crystals with the wrong equipment.
I do expect this to be a long term hobby of mine and so I’m happy to invest - but I don’t want to make a mess of an ETA movement on my first go - and I understand it’s going to take 1000s of hours of practice. So really I’m just looking to build a “beginners set” without paying a hyper inflated price online.
Thank you for your help on my watchmaking journey.
Put together a buying guide comparing the four movements that come up most in mod builds. Here's the TL;DR:
NH35A — 21,600 bph · +10/-15 s/day · $28–50 · Best for: beginners
Miyota 9015 — 28,800 bph · +/-10 s/day · $55–90 · Best for: intermediate builds
ETA 2824-2 — 28,800 bph · +/-4–12 s/day · $130–220 · Best for: premium/collector
Sellita SW200 — 28,800 bph · +/-5–12 s/day · $90–145 · Best for: Swiss quality without the ETA premium
All four have hacking and hand-winding. The jump from NH35 to Miyota 9015 is the most cost-effective accuracy upgrade. ETA vs Sellita is mostly a brand preference call — the movements are near-identical.
Full breakdown (origin, power reserve, jewel count, recommended skill level, where to buy) here:
👉 https://tokimodder.com/en/blog/guia-compra-movimientos-seiko-mod
What are you running in your current build?
I bought the camera Alex suggested to go with this microscope. It has to be mounted really high to get anything clear on the monitor. The microscope is zoomed all the way out but I still can’t see the entire movement on the monitor. I can see it with a lot of room to spare looking through the microscope. How can I make it where what you see on the monitor closely matches what I see through the eye piece?
I've applied and been scheduled for the dexterity test for the veterans watchmaking initiative in Odessa Delaware. If I do well on the test, I then attend the school for a couple of years and fulfill a long-term goal. It's a school for disabled veterans and it is highly regarded I've discovered. My issue is that I have a really difficult time working on the small parts because my hand shakes like an Bangladeshi space shuttle. Do any of you have any ideas about how I can cope with this? I can no longer lift anything heavy or above my collarbone. I'm a retired Chief Engineer Merchant Mariner and I have loved watches since I purchased a digital casio in 6th grade in the late 70's with my birthday and Christmas money. I think it was $32 plus tax at Radio Shack. I would really appreciate any feedback or suggestions about the shaking. I've tested the theory about coffee and or caffeinated beverages and it make no difference but maybe it will in conjunction with another practice. Thank you in advance, John
I personally would engrave my watch as long as it's not solid gold. I ask because I just engraved a 40,000 dollar Rose gold Vacheron Constantin, and couldn't help but think why would anyone engrave this watch.
Im trying to repair my father’s water damaged swatch irony. Swatch offered a 50% discount on the same model but would replace the whole unit. Also how do i open this without damaging the crystal? Ive done many watch crystals before but Ive heard that these break easily. Thanks 🙏
Ive also considered buying a fake moonswath and stripping the movement becouse im on a budget.
This is my first fully desgined model, with a few more upcoming.
This one is a tiki inspired piece, with tropical elements such as the tiki motif indices, pineapple icon at 1 on the date wheel, vibrant colours, and bamboo knot bezel.
Happy to answer any questions
Best,
Kai
Hi everyone! I decided to take apart a Waltham last night, and found that the bridge for the escape/seconds wheel was shimmed with a piece of brass. Today while pre-cleaning, I also found a chip in the outer portion of the jewel for the escape wheel. Should I find another movement and replace the jewel here, or is it ok to leave alone? Thanks for the help!
I recently posted on this page showing my Grand Feu Enamel dial. I wanted to let everyone know that my write up is available now to read more about my process!
Thank you and enjoy!
Hi I'm a learning hobbyist watchmaker and I need help. I bought this watch that has lume (the seller said it didn't), but I can't figure out if it's radium, tritium or some other stuff. It's a French yema branded watch that my Geiger counter cannot detect, but it seems like it cannot detect other tritium watches. (it detects very well radium)
The thing is that it does glow when put under uv light, and stays illuminated for a couple secs in the dark when lit with a uv light.
It does not have a mention for T on it's dial, but another yema watch that I own doesn't as well, thing is it's not from the same era (I can't put a date on the diver)
Did someone ever encounter this or would know what to do or look for?
I'm trying to know because I'm a bit scared of radioactive luminous materials.
Thanks a lot, pictures of my Geiger counter with other watches and the one I'm talking about for references.
Question- I ordered a Center wheel for a ETA6497 (ST36) using the part number from the ETA 6497 Technical Communication sheet.
The new wheel had much taller Feathers on the wheel pinion than the original wheel and would not allow the wheel to turn with the Train barrel in place. Plus the new Center Wheel pinion feathers did not match the teeth on the mainspring barrel.
I checked the part number I used to order the new center wheel to ensure it matched the one from the technical sheet. It was correct.
Then I spent an hour looking for a technical Communication sheet for the ST36 movement to see if the part number could be different and looking for the correct Center Wheel that would fix the problem . Mostly my searches came up wth escape wheels or replacements movements.
Any advice or help would be greatly appreciated.
I wanted to share a follow-up to my post yesterday about the “broken” Horotec crystal press I purchased. First, thank you to everyone who reached out with supportive and understanding comments—I really appreciate the constructive input.
However, I was honestly quite disappointed to read some of the more dismissive responses suggesting that I should just “fix it myself” or that it wasn't a big deal.
To be clear, capability isn't the issue here. Like many of us, I am perfectly capable of fixing mechanical equipment. The actual point is that a brand-new, premium tool simply shouldn’t fail on its first use.
It’s disheartening to see a mindset within a community built on precision and craftsmanship that essentially excuses poor quality control. When we pay a premium for professional-grade gear, we are paying for the engineering and reliability that comes with the name. Normalizing the idea that a buyer should immediately have to repair brand-new equipment out of the box only lowers the bar for manufacturers.
We should be holding brands to a higher standard, not brushing off valid complaints. I raised this because I think it’s a conversation worth having, and I hope we can focus more on supporting each other and demanding the quality we pay for.
Just bought this press and used it today for the first time to seat a new crystal into a Seiko 7S case. Screwed down the die onto the case carefully double checking the positioning and it clicked into the case as it should but when I went to undo the die by unscrewing the handle on top, the handle unscrewed from the press itself!!! Can’t believe it. The handle can no longer undo the threaded bar with the die!
Hello everyone sorry for the inexperienced post but I'm 18 and I want to start watching making and I have a coupel hundred to spare into kits and whatnot.
It's just there's so many tutorials out here and so I wanted a bit of clearer guidance on what to do and what to buy and how to start.
I'll be documenting my process too which would be sorta fun but I just need to know how to start
Going down the rabbit hole I have discovered other sellers of possible fake miyota clones except these look more genuine.
And these wholesale in bulk for $35-40 and possibly manufactured in China, and the seller has posted real videos and pictures of the actual product which looks genuine.
Could it be a bait and switch? Or could it be that Chinese watch factories bought a million of these movements back in 2009 when they used to cost $20 bucks and are still distributing them to microbrands in China or other grey markets? Perhaps they are overstock or factory rejects? Or just.... Excellent Clones. We all know what Dandong is capable of producing.
My research on Miyota shows they will not sell movements in bulk to just any oems and lead times takes several months as they are built to order.
The fact this Chinese watch company based in Ghangzhou can ship you 10,000 pieces within a week at lower than Miyotas own distributor pricing seems suspicious, but I'm no expert.
If there ARE thousands of these miyota 9s just collecting dust on a shelf in China somewhere, why do so few microbrands use them? Unless they can still bulk wholesale pt5000 and st2130 for....$5?
Hopefully our resident Cadisen affiliate can come in and clarify for us...
Hi there looking to get into the hoppy of watchmaking and watch repair with the goal of being able to perform a basic service on my own watches one day. I found this cheap movement for $23 on amazon would it be a good one to grab 2 of them to try and disassemble and reassemble? I have have seen people recommend the ST36 but its double the price on amazon. any other tools you recommend i get over others let me know also i was planning to get some decent drivers, tweezers, and a movement holder/ parts tray.