u/QuestionNo9190

The Marine Master 300/6159

San Martin upgraded the clasp, but I can't find it by itself because mine has the old clasp and I want to switch it

Bought this used. It's at least 4-5 years old but doesn't look heavily worn. Wondering how the movement holds up compared to other popular gmts.

This came right in time

This is one of the best clasps I've come across from all the main brands like cronos, San Martin or watchdives

The inner clasp has almost no lateral play or slop anywhere and the glide lock feels like perfection personified.

I thought it might house Teflon pads on the inside of the clasp like gen but it looks like some kind of ball bearing detent system. I'm not sure since I have not taken it apart.

The watch head itself is a bit disappointing, the bezel clicks are soft and a bit mushy, and the end links wiggle up and down which sugess that maybe the spring bars are slightly small or the inner lugs case holes are slightly too large or the spring bar tips have slop in them.

I want to upgrade all my watches to these. Most are 16mm and some are 18mm. Most use pins but some use screws. Logo does not matter.

I have these 2 nh34 polar gmts. I just noticed they are slightly different.

The one with the shorter hands has a much tighter bracelet and end links and a silver border on the date wheel

The one with the longer hands seems to have a thinker gmt hand and jangly end links, but the lume is slightly better

Which one is v3 and v4? What other changes are there? They are both 40mm. They both seem to have their pros and cons

Tried to capture it best I could. It's even more noticable in real life.

QC issues or seller sent the wrong color? Do they make these in black and grey?

I know there's a green version as well, which I also ordered.

Thanks!

I'm done with SteelDive.

The bracelets and clasps feel like they belong on a $60 watch. The bezel action is just as disappointing it sticks, wobbles, and the clicks feel soft and mushy or seizes up.

SteelDive needs to fix its bezel and bracelet quality before I'd consider buying another one.

This isn't a one-off, and these aren't their cheapest models. I own two of their $200 mm300 watches, and both have the exact same issues.

For $150–200, you can get much better quality from WatchDives or San Martin, with tighter bracelet tolerances, on-the-fly clasps, and crisp, solid bezel action.

I'll give SteelDive credit the lume is good, and the end links are surprisingly tight with no wiggle or clicking, I thought for sure they would fit as bad as the bezel.

Ah, so much better. Now I will just hand wind them every day

I did this all with 3 ingredients in about 15 minutes

- 3m maroon pad

- 3m fine grey

- elbow grease

The biggest aspect of this job is using even pressure and extremely straight swipes which you can use with the help of a wall or 90 degree shelf. If you're swipes have pressure or not completely straight you will experience "banana scratches" and uneven grain

The special sauce comes in the end when you use ultra fine pads. That's what gives it the silky smooth finish and refines any deeper scratches and uneven lines.

Took this apart and found a nylon style gasket that goes into the crystal and the crystal has a chamfer which goes into it

However I'm able to pop it in and out with my finger, and it doesn't take any pressure to get it back in

This can't possibly be more than splash resistant, unless they use some kind of glue in addition or the gasket becomes worn out after seating and reseating the crystal more than once.

Crystal gaskets should be thick and require like 2-3 millimeter of travel to get them in.

Tested one of my watches and saw a crazy high amplitude. The majority of them are 228-248. Rarely do I get one that's over 290. 310+ is insane.

Why do most nh35 have such low amplitude? And if they are designed that way which most people will tell you, why does the occasional one run 300+?

😬😬😬

Tired of gouges and scratches? Just get a maroone 3m automotive scuff pad for $5 and erase those scratches like magic!

A lot of YouTube restoration channels generally use maroone pads on rotary wheels because that closely matches factory grain/ finish from big brands like Rolex and leaves incredible results that are easy to blend that you can't get with sandpaper and other abrasives.

• only brush in straight lines with even pressure. Preferably put the watch on a hard surface and the scuff pad over a wooden ruler so you can apply the most even pressure and cleanest passes.

• tape off and polished sections you don't want brushed

• Finish off with grey 3m scuff pad. Optional but it will get you an more silky finish.

Before and after pics attached.

I left some of the deeper scratches alone because I didn't want to remove more material and potentially dull any edges any more than I have to to bring it back to 99% of it's former glory.

1 minute later you have a brand new watch.

Enjoy 👍👍

Edit Wow a lot of clowns and trolls in here acting like they own a grand Seiko . If you can get better results than my method I'm sure we would all love to see and hear about it.

I have also posted pictures in natural light in various posts since led and ai enhancements from a phone camera did distort the finish. It actually does looks near flawless in natural light.

Anybody run into a weird issue where the hairspring popped out of the stud collar and sits between the regulator arm and stud collar?

Noticed the beat error became 9ms and it was running 3 minutes a day fast hairspring/stud assemblies, manufacturers use a tiny amount of adhesive, shellac, lacquer, or similar fixing compound to help secure the hairspring in the stud.

Anybody replace the balance assembly on a pt5000 with anything generic?

Trying to avoid tossing a brand new movement over a tiny hairspring issue.

Any ideas about gluing the hairspring back into the stud so I don't deform the terminal curve?

Watch collecting is an interesting addiction

Bought this dirt cheap on a sale so I thought it was going to be a clone movement for sure.

Nope! Legit as balls...

Got the bezel off can't get it back on. Do I need a press? I'm pressing and twisting at the same time and it won't snap back on.

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Maybe the spring is no good? Bezel is perfectly straight and not bent or warped. It also feels kind of flush against the case, like the issue might be retaining spring related.

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No more click spring. Just want a friction fit. There's no rubber gasket anywhere, which might contribute to the lateral slop and sharp metallic feeling of the bezel.

Got the bezel off can't get it back on. Do I need a press? I'm pressing and twisting at the same time and it won't snap back on.

​

​

​

Maybe the spring is no good? Bezel is perfectly straight and not bent or warped. It also feels kind of flush against the case, like the issue might be retaining spring related.

​

​

​

No more click spring. Just want a friction fit. There's no rubber gasket anywhere, which might contribute to the lateral slop and sharp metallic feeling of the bezel.