First time chamfering/polishing a bracelet. I learned a lot and it was definitely fun, annoying, and somewhat rewarding. Still learning but I thought it came out spectacular. Stock VSF is on the left then what I did on the right.
I did this for a friend of mines 126610.
I got my first VSF gmt rep recently and I plan to keep it for a long time. I was thinking of sending the watch to get the movement lubricated and cleaned as I see lots of people recommending that as a first step to keep the watch working for a long time.
Heard the 3285 movement clone wasn’t as reliable for long term (I know I shouldn’t expect a rep to last a long time)
Question is, should I do that or should I do a full overhaul and pay modders for a movement replacement w the Gen movement? And how would I go about finding modders that are willing to do that? Don’t think I can find a watchmaker willing to work on reps in my country.
Would appreciate any tips or advice anyone has for me.
Thanks for the help in advance.
I have a Milgauss rep which I was told was made by Noob - I don’t believe it is. The movement stops frequently causing it to lose time. I am interested in replacing the movement myself, but need to identify it.
The movement measures 26mm diameter and is about 5mm thick. I can’t find any identification on it.
I was under the belief that a 3135 could replace it but when I got it in, it was substantially larger.
Any help would be appreciated.
I’ve got plenty of parts to replace links, screws, lugs, etc. but unfortunately I don’t think the clasp alone is available anywhere. I’d love to be proven wrong. Otherwise, if anyone knows where I can find a replacement DJ41 jubilee that fits a VSF I’d love to know. Thanks!
My daily driver has finally run into what I’ve read is a common issue with the VSF Seamasters…. The crown appears stripped and no longer screws down as it should.
I’d prefer to outsource the work to someone reputable but consider myself to be pretty advanced with tools, so I may try to fix myself. I’ve reached out to every trusted watchmaker listed in this group and of those who have replied, the wait is going to be months before they will even accept more orders.
Any advice or success stories from those of you who have experienced this same issue? Is it likely the crown itself, or is it more often the tube that needs replacing?
Hello i bought a subdate from RF. I gave my watch to my watch maker and he told me it's waterproofed. He opened to see the movement but i wondering if you opened your watch u need to change the gasket or oiled it up. I am wrong ? Next question i can ear the "tiktiktik" and the rotor when i shake it up but i have gen one and i don't ear the watch and don't ear the rotor. He said it's normal u need to wear it and you will not ear it. It will lubrificate 🤷🏻♂️ what's advices can y'all give me ? Thank you
Does anyone have a lead or can point me in the right direction to be able to source oyster flex straps
Reached out to one TD who had accessories listed on site and they have said parts are hard to come by..
Edit- straps for Daytona
I recently bought a Rolex dial and vr3135 movement and hands. Curious on what case I should buy and where to buy it. I’m looking to build a vintage datejust with drilled lugs
Hi everyone,
I'm about to buy a V7F IWC Ingenieur 40 (green dial), but I have one concern before pulling the trigger.
From the factory photos and videos I've received, the dial texture doesn't seem very pronounced. The square pattern is there, but the relief between each square looks quite flat compared to the genuine watch, where the texture appears much deeper and more defined.
The seller told me that "V7F make it all looks like this one", meaning every V7F Ingenieur has the same dial finish.
My question is:
- Is this actually normal for V7F?
- Does the dial look much better in person than it does in photos?
- Or is this something that will always look noticeably off compared to the genuine watch?
For those of you who own a V7F Ingenieur or have handled one in person, would you still recommend buying it despite this? Or is the dial texture a dealbreaker?
I'd really appreciate your honest opinions before I go ahead with the purchase.
Thanks!
Please give me some advice on what to do I contacted my dealer already and waiting to see how to resolve the issue
I recently visited San Diego (and posted about my in person repair success). Now I am visiting family in Roseville CA and had success at Fast Fix inside the Westfield Roseville mall.
I have a Franken DJ41 that I purchased a nicer CNC Bezel and needed it swapped out. I emailed ahead asking if they work with “aftermarket parts” and they said yes.
Dropped it off and was transparent about the watch, they had no issues. I spoke with the owner (I think he was) and asked if I could refer people and he was happy to accept more business.
Tips on your home city (or when you travel). 1. Call or email ahead. 2. Avoid saying fake. Use words like “aftermarket” or “hybrid parts.” 3. If you know what’s wrong with the watch or need a mod, bring the part with you. They are likely not going to have the part in stock unless it’s something simple like a spring bar. 4. If traveling, search this forum for tips. My local watchmakers won’t work on reps and luckily I travel a lot, so a good hack!
Happy 4th all!
I’m trying to do it myself rather than taking it to an independent jewellers but I’m not sure which battery to order. I’m new to this please help.
Just received VSF Daytona 116500 from TheOneWatches. The watch is not moving. What do I do? First time rep buyer here and newbie watch owner in general. Please help.
Thinking of paying extra to have new VSF Daytona moded with few upgrades. Gen Crystal and braclet chamfering. Rehaut polish and then replacing seals. Is it worth the extra $$ (probably double cost) or is the VSF good enough as is? I'm not looking to fool anyone but I own 2 Gen submariners (ND & Blusey) and would like something I like to wear to find out if I want to spring for gen daytona. Any thoughts or advise would be appreciated. Not opposed to spending a little more if the alterations make a difference to my eye in the long term.
Going on vacation in two weeks any places in New England who can do a bezel swap and movement swap?
Hey everyone,
I’m trying to figure out if this is normal for a new VSF DD3285 or if I’m dealing with a movement issue.
Watch:
VSF V3 GMT-Master II
DD3285 movement
Brand new (received 4 days ago)
I’ve been testing it with TickIQ (52° lift angle) and comparing it to atomic time.
What I’ve observed:
After wearing the watch for several hours:
Amplitude: 240-264°
Beat error: consistently 0.3 ms
Rate: usually between -10 and +10 s/day
It seems to run very well while I’m wearing it.
After resting dial up overnight (about 9-10 hours):
Amplitude drops to around 188-213°
TickIQ shows anywhere from +55 to +118 s/day
Compared to atomic time, it gained about 55 seconds in roughly 9 hours
This has happened more than once.
What’s interesting is that after I put the watch back on this morning, within about a minute TickIQ was already reading around:
+10 s/day
226° amplitude
0.3 ms beat error
If I wear it longer, the amplitude climbs back into the 240-260° range.
My question:
Has anyone seen a DD3285 behave like this?
Does this sound like:
a movement still settling in?
a winding/power delivery issue?
something related to low amplitude after resting?
or something that should go back to the dealer?
I’m not planning to regulate it yet because it seems to behave very differently depending on whether it’s been sitting overnight or worn for several hours.
Any insight from people familiar with the DD3285 would be appreciated.