My watch won't manually wind. It'll go to positions 2 and 3, but not 1. I can move the hour hand (position 2) or all hands (position 3), but when I try to go to the winding position, it just screws back in or moves the hour hand and then screws back in. Any help is appreciated. Thanks.
Got this from royal watch. Looking to see what can be done. I believe there is something wrong. Thanks for your help. I hear a click at 12 and date moves at the 9. This was brand new btw.
Located in Cali.
Hi everyone, I’m trying to reinstall the bezel on my Rolex GMT replica, but I can’t get it to stay attached. It comes loose again after fitting it.
The photo shows the watch and all the loose parts I have. Does anything look missing, bent or damaged? Is there a retaining ring or gasket I may have lost?
Could someone explain step by step how to reassemble it, including the correct order and orientation of these parts? I’d appreciate any advice before I try again. Thanks!
ARF GMT stopped working after this little piece inside came undone
I received my ARF GMT a week ago and it suddenly stopped. Returning watches is a pain so I took the back off to do basic troubleshooting. There is a half moon shaped disk behind the flywheel which looks decorative with Rolex and some kind of number stamped on it that has become undone. I moved it back into place and the arms move, but the time is off a couple of hours a day now.
I did notice the loose metal piece was magnetically attracted to my tweezers. Any advice at this point? I have a message out to my TD, but my previous TD wanted me to send the watch back to China at great expense.
Hey everyone, i have a gmt master II bruce wayne in need of service, i need the crystal changed and something changed with the bezel( doesn’t click going backwards). wanted to see if anyone knows any watch stores that fixes reps in NYC. Maybe brooklyn if you guys know one. Called two local ones, refused to service replicas. Thank you guys!
Also looking for anyone who can do these mods for me, looking for trusted people.
Right off the bat it’s not real it’s fake and I know this doesnt follow the rules but please. This was my dad’s watch which is now mine and all I want to do is make it work. I believe you twist the crown to make it work but it won’t tick or anything. I just want to fix it that’s all
Fucked up the screws badly when trying to take out extra links on my Tank Francaise🥲 Is there any watchmaker willing to help? You can destroy/drill whatever you need to do to take it out. Will ship anywhere within in the US. If you’re Miami, I can come in person.
Looking for someone to repair both of my watch crystals. They hold sentimental value, but they’re shitters.
I’ve reached out to a couple people but haven’t received responses yet so I’m trying my luck here. Any and all help is much appreciated.
Thanks
Little challenge :
So who could tell me what could be the issue here ?
I have this up for repair on my desk.
Cheers
Looking for advice on several issues with my VSF Submariner 126610LN (VS3235).
Disclaimer: AI helped organize my observations for accuracy. All symptoms are firsthand.
1. Gritty winding: Crown feels consistently grainy throughout winding, with none of the subtle clicking I experience on my other VSF Sub, QF Explorer, or Daytona. It’s not difficult to turn, just noticeably gritty. This has been present since receiving the watch and persists even after 24–36 hours unworn.
2. Rotor noise/movement: I can hear and physically feel the rotor spinning on my wrist, sometimes enough to make the case wobble. My previous VSF Sub was practically silent. With the caseback removed, the rotor swings smoothly and stops relatively quickly. It only twitches slightly during manual winding.
3. Poor power reserve: After wearing it all day, the watch died less than 24 hours after removal. I’ve also tested the reserve after manually winding. Timekeeping is otherwise excellent.
4. Crown threading: The screw-down crown frequently struggles to catch the case tube threads, sometimes requiring multiple attempts. This appears separate from the movement’s winding engagement.
5. Restarting issues: Occasionally, the seconds hand won’t resume after setting the time and pushing the crown back in. It sometimes takes 2–3 attempts, especially after sitting unworn.
Additional findings: I’ve opened the caseback and inspected the movement. No obvious damage, loose components, or rotor scraping. The rotor bearing appears intact.
My dealer has offered a replacement movement. So I’m waiting on that and my next steps.
Questions:
Do these symptoms suggest faulty reversing wheels, automatic winding gears, or another VS3235 issue?
Could the gritty winding, rotor behavior, and poor reserve share a common cause?
I’ll attach movement photos. Any insight from experienced VS3235 owners or watchmakers is appreciated!
Does anyone know where to find a polished center link for a 41mm sub bracelet?
This is a VSF seamaster. I had swapped in a top grade 2824, was working great, took it apart to reset the hands as the date change wasn't at midnight, and the crown wouldn't go back in, I assumed it was the keyless works which I reset. Now the watch winds, date changes, hands move appropriately but the watch won't start ticking. AI suggested it was the hacking lever. I'm clearly in over my head. Is there anybody in the eastern us that would be interested in servicing?
Hey guys, I lost a screw from the bracelet on my Rolex Datejust VSF V2 after it came loose. The link itself is fine, but a standard bracelet screw doesn’t fit. Can a regular watchmaker fix this? Do standard screws fit VSF bracelets, or do I need to find a specific replacement or another solution? Anyone had this issue before? 🙏
After purchasing over 10 Vsf Watches
I received a new free sprung datejust today
The quality feels awful and a movement is rattling
Even there steel feels different
Hey everyone,
I’m facing a bit of a geometric puzzle with a build/mod and could really use some expert input from experienced watchmakers here.
The Setup & Problem:
I installed a custom dial on a GMT build. The original factory dial (black) aligned 100% perfectly with the rehaut and date window, so I know the case, rehaut, and movement positioning are completely square.
However, with this new dial:
The 12 o’clock marker is visibly misaligned with the rehaut engraving (shifted off by about 0.5mm).
BUT the date window on the new dial currently lines up 100% perfectly with the date wheel underneath.
The movement itself works fine, but I’m trying to figure out the best way to correct this visual alignment without causing mechanical issues down the road:
The theory: Unclamping the movement clamps and rotating the whole assembly slightly to align the dial with the rehaut.
My concern: By rotating the movement by 0.5mm, the winding stem/crown tube alignment will be crooked, putting lateral stress on the stem, crown gaskets, and keyless works.
The theory: Snip off the misplaced dial feet on the new dial and re-seat it using dial dots, aligned directly with the rehaut 12 o'clock mark.
My concern: Since the date window is currently centered with the date wheel, rotating just the dial means the date window will now cut off the date font on the wheel unless the date jumper/clicking mechanism can somehow be re-indexed.
My questions for the pros:
Is rotating the movement even slightly a total cardinal sin due to stem friction, or is there enough tolerance in the tube?
If I go the Dial Dots route, is there a standard way to re-index or adjust the date jumper spring/click so the date wheel centers up with the newly aligned dial window?
Given that the original black dial fit perfectly, am I overthinking this, or is there a much better, obvious solution here?
Appreciate any advice, realities of tolerances, or best-practice solutions from anyone who’s tackled this before!
I got my first rep watch 3 months ago from geektime after reading reviews about their reputation. I've only worn it a few times and today I noticed that the white ball at the top of the face fell off. Idk where it went as it must have fallen off the last time I wore it. Is this something I can get fixed or is it a lost cause. Is this a common issue or was I just unlucky?
Any advice is appreciated.
I recently got an ARF DJ 36 from Andiot (about three weeks ago) noticed that the dial had completely shifted 90° left once I got home today. Any recommendations for someone who services reps. Or should I just find a local watchmaker who’dbe willing to do it? I also got the deep crystal so it’s possible andiot fucked it up when reassembling.
I live in Virginia Beach, Virginia. If anyone know a good watchmaker who’d be willing to work on reps.