Image 1 — Dial misaligned with rehaut, but date window is perfectly centered. How to align without breaking stem/date wheel?
Image 2 — Dial misaligned with rehaut, but date window is perfectly centered. How to align without breaking stem/date wheel?
Image 3 — Dial misaligned with rehaut, but date window is perfectly centered. How to align without breaking stem/date wheel?
Image 4 — Dial misaligned with rehaut, but date window is perfectly centered. How to align without breaking stem/date wheel?
Image 5 — Dial misaligned with rehaut, but date window is perfectly centered. How to align without breaking stem/date wheel?
Image 6 — Dial misaligned with rehaut, but date window is perfectly centered. How to align without breaking stem/date wheel?

Dial misaligned with rehaut, but date window is perfectly centered. How to align without breaking stem/date wheel?

Hey everyone,

I’m facing a bit of a geometric puzzle with a build/mod and could really use some expert input from experienced watchmakers here.

The Setup & Problem:
I installed a custom dial on a GMT build. The original factory dial (black) aligned 100% perfectly with the rehaut and date window, so I know the case, rehaut, and movement positioning are completely square.

However, with this new dial:
The 12 o’clock marker is visibly misaligned with the rehaut engraving (shifted off by about 0.5mm).

BUT the date window on the new dial currently lines up 100% perfectly with the date wheel underneath.
The movement itself works fine, but I’m trying to figure out the best way to correct this visual alignment without causing mechanical issues down the road:

  1. Option 1: Rotating the entire movement

The theory: Unclamping the movement clamps and rotating the whole assembly slightly to align the dial with the rehaut.

My concern: By rotating the movement by 0.5mm, the winding stem/crown tube alignment will be crooked, putting lateral stress on the stem, crown gaskets, and keyless works.

  1. Option 2: Adjusting only the dial (Clipping dial feet + Dial Dots)

The theory: Snip off the misplaced dial feet on the new dial and re-seat it using dial dots, aligned directly with the rehaut 12 o'clock mark.

My concern: Since the date window is currently centered with the date wheel, rotating just the dial means the date window will now cut off the date font on the wheel unless the date jumper/clicking mechanism can somehow be re-indexed.

My questions for the pros:
Is rotating the movement even slightly a total cardinal sin due to stem friction, or is there enough tolerance in the tube?

If I go the Dial Dots route, is there a standard way to re-index or adjust the date jumper spring/click so the date wheel centers up with the newly aligned dial window?
Given that the original black dial fit perfectly, am I overthinking this, or is there a much better, obvious solution here?

Appreciate any advice, realities of tolerances, or best-practice solutions from anyone who’s tackled this before!

u/HauntingDiscount7041 — 12 days ago

QC VSF OP 36 Silver

QC VSF OP 36 Silver

Dealer name: Andiot
Factory name: VSF

Model name (& version number): OP 36mm silver dial 126000 DD3230

Price Paid: $408 (excluding shipping)
Album Links: https://andiotwatches.x.yupoo.com/albums/254259215?uid=1

Index alignment: Looks good to me. I don’t see anything that looks tilted.

Dial Printing: Good
Date Wheel alignment/printing: N/A
Hand Alignment: Good
Bezel: N/A

Solid End Links (SELs): Looks fine
Timegrapher numbers: +3s/d, 287° amplitude, 28,000 bph. Does +3s/d seem like too much, or is this still within a good range?

Anything else you notice: Overall looks good to me. The index centering looks good and I don’t notice anything tilted.

u/HauntingDiscount7041 — 1 month ago

VSF vs. RCF Remould (V1 & V2) Datejust Bezel – Direct Comparison - Love It!!!

Hey everyone!
Wanted to share my thoughts on Datejust bezels. For the longest time, I stuck with the stock VSF V1 bezel and was constantly torn: in some lighting it looked decent, but in others, it was an instant tell. I hesitated to drop the money on an upgrade, but doing it was the best decision I’ve made for this watch.

VSF vs. RCF Remould: Night and Day

The RCF bezel is in a completely different league and looks virtually identical to Gen. The light play is incredible—whether in direct sunlight, dusk, or cloudy weather, the reflections are stunning. The upgrade is 100% worth it.
RCF V1 vs. RCF V2

Having owned both versions, here is how they stack up:
RCF V1: My personal favorite. The finish and reflection are just a tiny bit more impressive.

Note: There is a slight risk of oxidation. I wash mine regularly and haven't had any issues so far. If you're okay with that small risk (or don't mind replacing it down the line), go with the V1.

RCF V2: Absolute top-tier quality as well. If I didn't own the V1 to compare side-by-side, I’d be completely thrilled with this one.

Note: If you want the safe route, pay the bit extra for the V2—it won't oxidize. Mine did NOT oxidize yet!

Final Verdict

Both bezels are outstanding—I’d rate the RCF V1 a 12/10 and the RCF V2 an 11/10.
Feel free to ask if you have any questions! Overall, my experience with RCF Remould was perfect: always friendly, helpful, solution-oriented, and fully trusted. I’d order again without hesitation. It's awesome that we have these kinds of options to upgrade our reps.
Thanks, Team RCF Remould!

u/HauntingDiscount7041 — 1 month ago

How to Remove the Rotor of this AP

I’m trying to remove the rotor from an AP Royal Oak automatic movement. I’ve already completely removed the screws, but the rotor still won’t come off.
Does anyone know how to remove it? Is there another retaining mechanism or some trick I’m missing?
Any advice would be appreciated!

Royal Oak 34mm 77450 SS/RG 8F Best Edition Gray Dial on SS/RG Bracelet A5800

u/HauntingDiscount7041 — 2 months ago

QC VSF V3 GMT 2 Pepsi Andiot

Dealer name: Andiot Watches
Factory name: VSF

Model name (& version number): GMT-Master II 126710 BLRO Blue/Red Ceramic VSF Best Edition Pepsi on Jubilee Bracelet DD3285 V3
Price Paid: $606

Album Links: https://andiotwatches.x.yupoo.com/albums/247993370?uid=1

Index alignment: Overall alignment looks very good to me. The 12, 3, 6 and 9 markers appear well aligned. I don’t see any obvious crooked indices, although I’d appreciate a second opinion on the 6 o’clock marker just to be sure.
Dial Printing: Looks clean and sharp. All text appears crisp with no noticeable printing issues.

Date Wheel alignment/printing: Date looks nicely centered in the window and the print quality appears good. Cyclops magnification also looks fine.

Hand Alignment: Nothing stands out to me. The hands appear well finished and correctly aligned.
Bezel: Bezel alignment looks good, with the triangle lining up nicely at 12. Colors and engraving also look consistent.
Solid End Links (SELs): I can’t spot any noticeable gaps. SEL fit looks nice and tight.

Timegrapher numbers: -2 s/d, 270°, 0.1 ms, 28800 A/h. These seem like excellent numbers to me, but I’d appreciate confirmation from those with more experience.

Anything else you notice: Overall this looks like a solid QC to me. I don’t see any major issues with the dial, rehaut, bezel, or bracelet. If anyone notices something I may have missed, especially regarding alignment or the cyclops, I’d really appreciate your input. Thanks!

u/HauntingDiscount7041 — 3 months ago
▲ 156 r/RepTime

Friends Watch, Gen?

In theory, I know he could afford it. On the other hand, I always thought he’d rather put his money into stocks than spend it on a watch. I haven’t seen him in quite a while though, so maybe his priorities have changed.
What do you guys think?

u/HauntingDiscount7041 — 3 months ago
▲ 90 r/RepTime

Deep crystal on a VSF V2 is absolute worth it!

Hi everyone,
I already had a Deep Crystal installed on my VSF V1 DJ, and the difference was truly night and day.
With my VSF V2 Daytona, I always thought the stock crystal was already good enough and that a Deep Crystal wouldn’t make much of a difference. Today I installed one anyway — and I’m honestly blown away. The dial looks much clearer, has way more depth, and the watch overall just looks more premium.
If you’re wondering whether a Deep Crystal is worth it for the VSF V2 Daytona: yes, absolutely.

Big thanks to my friend wich did recommend it and install it ❤️

u/HauntingDiscount7041 — 3 months ago
▲ 79 r/RepTime

Dont worry your Bezel is Perfect, no need for a Upgrade… but there is RCF :D

Hey, here is my Stock VSF Bezel and I love it. Even if I sometimes hate it and think about getting an RCF Bezel hahaha

u/HauntingDiscount7041 — 3 months ago
▲ 13 r/RepTime

Could a Stock VSF be white gold plated?

Hi everyone,
A while ago I bought a Ghost Daytona from JTime — the VSF tungsten-weighted version. Since the genuine Ghost Daytona is made of white gold, JTime’s listing mentions that the watch comes “stock plated.”

I remember a lot of people saying that this was just marketing and that a standard VSF Daytona isn’t actually white-gold plated. However, when I look at my watch, especially in certain lighting, I can see what looks like slight unevenness or surface characteristics that remind me of what I’ve seen before on white-gold-plated Datejust fluted bezels.

I’m definitely not an expert, so this could simply be the way the polished finish reflects light. What’s interesting is that depending on the lighting, the watch sometimes has a nice warm white-gold tone and other times looks completely cold like stainless steel.
Do any of you know whether these VSF Ghost Daytonas were ever actually plated, or am I just overanalyzing the finish? I’d appreciate any input from people with more experience.
Thanks!

u/HauntingDiscount7041 — 4 months ago

What do you think?

Idk what Factory. Movement is 3255.

  1. ⁠What do you think?
  2. ⁠Do you see any factories in it?
u/HauntingDiscount7041 — 4 months ago