u/oom1999

Given the age and comparative simplicity/brokenness of Gen 1 (R/G/B/Y/StadJP/Stad1), the top picks among skilled members in Smogon's OU format have been fairly constant for a long time. The current team members can be roughly summarized by the following:

• Tauros (Body Slam/Hyper Beam/Earthquake/Blizzard)
• Snorlax (Body Slam/Self-Destruct/Earthquake/Hyper Beam)
• Exeggutor (Psychic/Sleep Powder/Explosion/Stun Spore)
• Chansey (Soft-Boiled/Thunder Wave/Ice Beam/Sing)
• Starmie *LEAD* (Recover/Thunder Wave/Thunderbolt/Blizzard)
• Alakazam (Recover/Psychic/Thunder Wave/Seismic Toss)

So, if you had to take down this team but could NOT use any of the Pokémon that comprise it, nor could you use Mewtwo or Mew (or Missingno. if you wanted to be a smartass), what would your team look like? All legal moves are fair game, including ones that you can only get from Time Capsule trading with Gen 2, moves from obscure event Pokémon, or any combination of the two (so the infamous Petal Dance Golduck is legal if you want him). Never mind, I forgot tradebacks were banned in OU. Only movesets from Gen 1 allowed (although you can still use movesets from Gen 1 special/event Mons like Amnesia Golduck or Fly/Surf Raichu).

https://www.wide-gamut.com/test

I have a Chromium browser, and I'm passing every single test on the page except 1.) HEIC support (which non-Apple browsers simply don't have), and 2.) the test for cICP chunks. To quote:

> Does your browser support cICP chunks?

> If your display passes the wide gamut test, you can test your browser’s support for cICP chunks in PNG images by checking whether it can display wide gamut colors correctly. If the top squares look more saturated, your browser is interpreting the cICP tag properly. If they appear the same, it’s not.

My browser shows the two rows of colored blocks as the same, which means it's not working correctly. How would I fix this?

EDIT: Updated for proper calibration, rather than blindly setting peak to 400.

As in the title, I am running Windows 11 Pro on a RoG Swift OLED PG32UCDMR monitor with a GeForce RTX 5090 graphics card. My goal is the most accurate color settings I can get at 4K 240Hz with my equipment. Here's a breakdown of my settings:

• Monitor set to DisplayHDR 400 True Black
• VividPixel turned down to 0
• All dimming-related OLED Care settings turned off
• DSC turned off (I am using DisplayPort 2.1)
• Windows HDR is turned on
• Windows' Auto HDR turned off
• Windows HDR Calibration program used to calibrate blackness at 0 and both peak brightness settings at 450 nits, with saturation at 0; the resulting profile is now my system default
• SDR Content Brightness slider set to 8 to approximate ~111 nits reference white (per BT.2408's formulas)
• Windows' "process video automatically" option turned off
• Color accuracy mode in the NVIDIA App reads as "Accurate", with sliders left untouched
• Dynamic range is set to full, color format set to RGB, and color depth set to 10 bpc
• RTX Dynamic Vibrance is turned off
• In RTX HDR settings [for SDR-only games and SDR video content], peak brightness locked at 450 nits, saturation set at -25% to remain neutral, with different settings for videos and games targeting ~111 reference white: for videos, middle grey set to 21 nits and contrast set to +50% to approximate a gamma 2.4 curve (per BT.1886), while for games, middle grey set to 24 nits and contrast set to +25% to approximate a gamma 2.2 curve (per sRGB).

Have I made any miscalculations, and are there any other settings I should alter to make the colors more accurate for both HDR and SDR content?

As in the title, I am running Windows 11 Pro on a RoG Swift OLED PG32UCDMR monitor with a GeForce RTX 5090 graphics card. My goal is the most accurate color settings I can get at 4K 240Hz with my equipment. Here's a breakdown of my settings:

• Monitor set to DisplayHDR 400 True Black
• VividPixel turned down to 0
• All dimming-related OLED Care settings turned off
• DSC turned off (I am using DisplayPort 2.1)
• Windows HDR is turned on
• Windows' Auto HDR turned off
• Windows HDR Calibration program used to set the blackness at 0 and both peak brightness settings at 400 nits, with saturation at 0; the resulting profile is now my system default
• SDR Content Brightness slider set to 5 to approximate ~101 nits reference white (per BT.2408's specifications for a 400-nit display)
• Windows' "process video automatically" option turned off
• Color accuracy mode in the NVIDIA App reads as "Accurate", with sliders left untouched
• Dynamic range is set to full, color format set to RGB, and color depth set to 10 bpc
• RTX Dynamic Vibrance is turned off
• In RTX HDR settings [for SDR-only games and SDR video content], peak brightness locked at 400 nits, middle grey set to 19 nits to approximate ~101 nits reference white, saturation set at -25% to remain neutral, and contrast set to +50% to approximate a gamma 2.4 curve (per BT.1886)

Have I made any miscalculations, and are there any other settings I should alter to make the colors more accurate for both HDR and SDR content?

While some may see it as a thick-headed tactic based on "Just tell us what the monster looks like already, Howard!", I honestly think a truly creative director who says "'Unspeakable horrors', you say? Is that a challenge?" would be able to make a far more engaging and even a more horrific film if given the budget to make it.

The most "Lovecraftian" experience I've ever had in a movie wasn't even in a horror/suspense film. It was in the Marvel film Doctor Strange. The shifting landscapes and perspectives created by the dueling magic-users was disorienting to me. I could see everything on-screen in perfect clarity, but even so I struggled to comprehend it. I've never felt like that before: No blurry backgrounds or shadows to hide anything, and yet visual understanding eluded me. Now transpose that mental response onto a "monster" design, and I think you might have cracked a code.

Title covers it. If you had to upscale a video, sight-unseen, and wanted to ensure as much new detail as possible was present in the output, which two non-Starlight models would you pick for the job, and which would come first?

Like the title says, I have some digitized home movies that are old and in fairly rough shape. I want to make them look a bit better, so I came up with the following pipeline. The FFmpeg steps are there because the supposed ideal input for Topaz Video is a progressive, CFR video with square pixels. The intermediate files will all be 10-bit 4:4:4 FFV1 to retain lossless video quality (except for the Hyperion 2 pass, where I'll be forced to output ProRes 422 HQ).

• FFmpeg Pass 1: deinterlace and ensure CFR
• FFmpeg Pass 2: crop black bars and remove black frames from beginning and end
• FFmpeg Pass 3: minor ewa_lanczossharp upscale to ensure square pixels
• Topaz Video Pass 1: Stabilize
• Topaz Video Pass 2: Motion Deblur
• Topaz Video Pass 3: major upscale with a Starlight model
• Topaz Video Pass 4: SDR-to-HDR via Hyperion 2
• Topaz Video Pass 5: Frame Interpolation to higher frame rate

Will this ordering of enhancements give me the best picture quality at the end, or do I need to rearrange some of them? Also, should I expand the pixel format to 10-bit 4:4:4 during the FFmpeg steps, or wait until the first pass in Topaz Video?

https://pastebin.com/PYf4JEhc

This worked a couple days ago, but now it simply says that the filters won't initialize. Yes, the path to the nnedi weights hasn't changed, nor has my syntax for its path. I run an up-to-date Windows 11, I updated my NVIDIA drivers to v610.47 yesterday, and right now I'm using the absolute latest build of master win64_gpl FFmpeg from BtbN.

EDIT: No solution yet, but I've narrowed down the culprit to libplacebo. This may or may not be related to the most recent NVIDIA driver update, but I haven't seen anyone else make this specific complaint since it was released on May 26th.

Topaz's website says stabilization should go before motion deblur, but I can't find any suggestions on whether denoise should go before, after, or in-between those two. To reiterate, this is keeping the video file at its original resolution, no upscaling or anything fancy.

To clarify, I mean like a modular checklist to the effect of

1. If your video is X, do Y
2. If your video is W, do Z
3. So on and so forth...

covering the broad priority of all the different operations you can do. For example (I'm not actually asking these questions), should you deinterlace before everything else? Should you upsample to HDR before or after frame interpolation? Should you change the output chroma subsampling at any point before upsampling to HDR? Should any enhancements be used on the original video before using a Starlight model? Stuff like that.

So I used split to create two video streams: a raw input and a denoised version. The two streams need to be identified [a][b] right before the fieldmatch command in order for it to use the denoised stream as pre-processed data, but which is which? Is [a] the raw input or the denoised version?