Why nobody told me surfing can be lifelong addiction?
It all started very innocent. I can’t remember who and when recommended me a book to read “Barbarian Days” (I think I don’y have to explain any details about the book here..)
This led me to taking a few surfing lessons on Madeira island. Catching a few waves on a foamy was super exciting. I got hooked on already.
Continued on hardboard in Indonesia, on and off, with many injuries along the way (turf toe, bit torn intercostal muscle, rib cage massive bruises, left lateral issues.. to name a few)
So I read the book for the second time with more in depth understanding. Started to target my workouts to be more aligned with surfing.
Fast forward to today, I am in the ocean 5 times a week on a midlength, 2-3 hours per session,
After each session I have that blissful feeling of calmness, relaxation and crystal clear state of mind. For sure this is mixture of all these neurotransmitters and endorphins. To me it feels different than running a marathon (I run one, 4:13)
Sometimes it lasts for 2hours sometimes for entire day. Are these the ocean minerals that soak my body? Are these high amplitude waves that gently swings me?
This led me to comprehension why certain an ancient cultures around Polynesia associated surfing with something spiritual experience.
I don’t know what it is but my brain just keeps whispering “let’s do that again” 😎