Hi everyone,

I’m planning my first trekking trip to Nepal and would really appreciate advice from people who have recently done these routes.

I’ll have around 20–22 days in Nepal in total, starting around September 15. I’m trying to choose one main trek without rushing acclimatisation or leaving no margin for weather and transport delays.

I’m an experienced hiker and enjoy long mountain days, high passes, remote landscapes, and quieter routes. I don’t need luxury, but I’m happy staying in basic tea houses and hiring a guide when it is required or genuinely useful.

The routes I’m considering are:

• Everest Three Passes + EBC/Gokyo
• Manaslu Circuit + Tsum Valley
• Annapurna Circuit + Nar Phu
• Langtang Valley + Gosaikunda + Helambu, possibly Ganja La if conditions and logistics are suitable
• Kanchenjunga Circuit or Makalu Base Camp, although I understand they may be more demanding logistically within this timeframe

My priorities are:

1. Spectacular high-mountain scenery and high passes
2. A proper circuit or traverse rather than only an out-and-back route
3. Less crowded trails, where possible
4. A realistic itinerary with sufficient acclimatisation and a weather/transport buffer
5. Good value for money — I’m fine with basic accommodation and don’t need an organized luxury package

I also have a few practical questions:

• For each of these regions, what permits are currently needed and what are the approximate costs for a foreign trekker?
• Are guides mandatory on these routes now? If so, is a porter also compulsory, or optional?
• For routes with restricted-area permits, such as Manaslu, Tsum Valley, Nar Phu or Kanchenjunga: can a solo traveller join a group locally, or is it better to arrange this in advance?
• For someone who is experienced and normally hikes independently, which routes would you still strongly recommend doing with a guide?
• Is it sensible to arrange permits, transport and guides after arriving in Kathmandu, or should I book in advance?
• Which route offers the best balance between cost, scenery, remoteness and logistical simplicity?
• Is mid-September a good time for these routes, or is it still too close to the monsoon? I’m especially wondering about rain, cloud cover, muddy trails, leeches at lower elevations, landslides/road conditions, and visibility.
• How cold should I realistically expect the nights to be at roughly 4,000–5,000 m in mid/late September? For example, in Kyanjin Gompa, Gokyo, Larkya Phedi/Dharmasala, or the high Annapurna sections.
• How likely is early snow on the high passes at that time of year? Would you recommend waiting until late September or October instead?
• If the main trek ends up being shorter than expected, what would you recommend doing with the remaining days? A shorter trek such as Poon Hill, Mardi Himal, Tamang Heritage Trail, or perhaps cultural days in Kathmandu/Bhaktapur/Patan, rafting, wildlife in Chitwan, or something else?
• Conversely, if I only have 20–22 days door-to-door from Europe, rather than fully in Nepal, which itinerary is the least risky and most realistic?

Gear: bring, buy or rent in Kathmandu?

I have my own trekking gear, but bringing the full setup from Europe may not be practical because it is bulky. My plan is to travel with a large checked trekking bag, bringing essential personal items, and then buy or rent some bulky gear in Kathmandu.

• Which gear would you definitely bring from home, and which items are sensible to rent or buy locally for a September trek at 4,000–5,000 m?
• Are there any reliable rental or gear shops in Thamel/Kathmandu that you would recommend, especially for sleeping bags, down jackets and possibly microspikes?
• Is the quality of rental gear generally good enough, or should I avoid relying on it for critical items?

If you had 20–22 days, starting around September 15, what would you choose and why?

In particular, would you take Manaslu + Tsum Valley over the Everest Three Passes, or does the Three Passes route justify the added crowds, cost and Lukla-flight uncertainty?

Thanks a lot — any recent first-hand experience, realistic itineraries, permit information, guide recommendations, or mistakes to avoid would be very welcome.