Anyone switching to red-dyed supply for the month?

Politics aside, fuel prices are fuel prices and many places across the US are allowing red-dyed off-road diesel in highway vehicle, at least for a month or so. I'm considering doing this but was wondering: does the red-dyed variant have any differences in shelf-life or cetane ratings? Also, I have a few JerryCans I use for backup supply now but would love to keep a bit larger stockpile...although 55 gal drum size just wouldn't work for me. Anyone doing something in the middle?

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u/polterjacket — 5 days ago

Recommended location for snap-on SPD

https://preview.redd.it/1qybvi72noph1.png?width=1320&format=png&auto=webp&s=371d20a02cc60a4163547b324ecc35efd60d7071

I'm adding a Siemens BoltShield 2P SPD at one of my subpanels (because apparently my AHJ is now enforcing SPDs at the origination panel of EVERY household circuit. I'm a bit OCD so the fact that this panel isn't ALREADY better organized bothers be...but I don't have time or wire-slack to re-work everything. Where's the best location to pop in my boltshield? All slots are 1P. No half-size allowed on on this backplane, FYI. I might have enough slack in the NM to swing the 2-4 2P over to position 15-17 and then I can use the first two slots on the right for my SPD...ORRRR, I can just slap in at position 37-39 or 38-40.

Yeah, I know that electrically it matters very little and the most important factor is getting the neutral lead short, just hoping for opinions from those who take pride on good layout and organization.

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u/polterjacket — 1 month ago

Safety Disconnect location

My utility requires a 200A (or whatever the largest power producer in the home) rated lever-style safety switch at the service entrance for grid interconnection with generation or storage. This is a separate 31" tall box. I had assumed I would put it NEXT to my meter base (plain-jane compact milbank) but am wondering if I can stack the two for a "stealth" switch location. It would put the bottom of the switch only 11-13" off grade (driveway). Anyone done this and did you get pushback in permitting or from the utility? FWIW, we have an yearly average under 1" of snow.

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u/polterjacket — 1 month ago

Type 2 SPD for a subpanel (am I overthinking it).

In the process of getting a new service (which will have a Type1 at the outside main safety switch/ GNB location). My first panel with actual branches is a 40/60 Siemens (newly installed). I'm confident the distance from the service entrance (about 50 wiring feet) justifies having an SPD in general but I keep pouring over options (in-brand vs. non / plug-on vs. external / mid-grade vs. crazy high specs).

I'm leaning towards a Siemens QSPD2A035B 35 KAmp 2P plug-on breaker SPD. It's easy, clean to integrate while the new panel is empty, and it meets the requirements (and is reasonably affordable and carried locally). Is it worth getting a higher KAmp rating or trying to move to a discrete attached device next to the panel or am I just overcomplicating the process and should stick with my gut?

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u/polterjacket — 1 month ago

How much do consistent panel brands really matter?

I'm replacing an existing 1980s-era 150A main panel (GE) with a new panel which will become a main-lug subpanel to a new service. The current main has a Siemens subpanel that was added a few years ago as part of a renovation that is located on the other end of the room. I'm debating the benefits / drawbacks of going with ABB or Siemens for the new panel and am curious what others think "matters". Both options are 30-space with PON, plenty of bus room, etc. (so, very similar from a utility perspective).

On one hand using ABB would allow me to re-use the breakers in the current panel (where appropriate) and the panel price (including some "bonus breakers" in a package deal) is about $50 less. It has an Al bus, though :(

On the other, the Siemens panel would keep the whole home in one ecosystem even though I'd end up with a bunch of used GE breakers and have to buy multiple new ones (which are a bit pricier than the ABB). It also has a solid copper bus and although I think their front panels are a little goofy, the panel feels a little more 'solid' than the ABB...but that is pretty subjective.

What would you do in your own home and why?

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u/polterjacket — 2 months ago

Critique my proposed new service entrance

Planning a new 200A power service entrance at the end of my garage so I can install a new grid interconnect/inverter/batteries inside protected from the elements. Critique my mockup, please ( location, orientation, etc). The cardboard represents the ( dimensionally correct ) milbank meter base provided by my POCO ( the left) plus the stub of a 2" mast. The right is a 200a Siemens safety disconnect switch ( required for battery storage/solar with the poco). I have a 2" pull elbow depicted between factory knockouts. The blue tape mark ( and center cross on the meter base ) are at 54". The plant is movable and will not be present for commissioning. Located in GaPower/SoCo territory.

u/polterjacket — 3 months ago

Type-1 SPD install location?

I'm working on component design for a new service entrance for my home. I'd like to install a type-1 SPD but can't figure out the best way to connect it without using something like polaris lugs. The setup looks like this:

Utility -----Mast -- Meter base -200a fusible safety switch------------Main Panel

Per my utility, the G/N bond should take place in the safety switch, so I assumed that's where the SPD would go as well. Unfortunately, neither of A/B hot power lugs on the load side (or line side for that matter) are rated for multiple conductors. How do people usually connect an SPD in this setup?

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u/polterjacket — 4 months ago

What triggers a "bring the whole house up to code" event from an inspector?

I'm looking at an upgraded service in my home (new meter base in new location, etc.) due to adding some battery storage and (later) solar. This will add several things that were not in the original 1970 build, like an external service disconnect, whole-home surge protection, etc. The most invasive "change" to what's already in the home is converting my existing main panel to a subpanel and feeding it from the new service location. All neutrals and grounds will need to be separated. The line side feeders will come from the opposite side of the home, etc.

What typically triggers a "you need to make the whole home current adopted code" event with inspectors (in your experience). My town has NEC 2023 Edition, with 2026 Georgia Amendments. One such line is an exemption to 210.12(B) (AFCI requirements): Exception #3: AFCI protection shall not be required for one and two-family dwellings and townhomes. Does that imply that I don't need to worry about any circuits that require AFCI at all? The other big gap I think I might run into is having interconnected smokes. We've connected all the ones in renovated areas, but the ones on the second floor (bedrooms) are not connected.

I know this is a complex issue, just curious if this are general trends or if it varies wildly with AHJ.

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u/polterjacket — 4 months ago

I'm looking at a new service location on my home which will necessitate putting in a new "main" and convert my existing main to a sub-panel (all those fun changes notwithstanding for this question). The issue is this: I would like to route the feeder for the (new) subpanel through an existing attic cavity and down 1 floor through a chase that was previously used by the furnace in my basement. It is now unused and is basically a 6" galvanized flue going straight vertical up through the back of a closet from right near my existing panel up to right where it needs to be for the new service.

Is it permissible to use this (former) flue as a path for the new feeders? I would fire-block at both ends but there's not really a good way to attach the conductors to anything inside the cavity. Do the rules for "conduit" apply here even if it's a 6" diameter galvanized flue? If it matters, I would probably use Al SER sized for the panel (likely 150A).

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u/polterjacket — 5 months ago