Image 1 — Risen from the grave 1938/1953 Buescher "The 400" frankentrumpet
Image 2 — Risen from the grave 1938/1953 Buescher "The 400" frankentrumpet
Image 3 — Risen from the grave 1938/1953 Buescher "The 400" frankentrumpet
▲ 22 r/Vintage_Trumpets+1 crossposts

Risen from the grave 1938/1953 Buescher "The 400" frankentrumpet

A while ago I picked up 1938 Buesher "The 400" model 225 with a crushed bell, crushed main tuning slide upper, and squashed 2nd and 3rd valve crooks... and no valves or upper or lower valve caps for basically nothing. It thought I might find something to do with the various pieces (I actually bought it for the cool art deco braces and water keys). The longer I had the parts in a box.. the more I thought about trying to put it back together. I tried to find valves and valve caps for a reasonable price but it was hopeless.

Then in an eBay auction lot of 8 scrap trumpets and cornets, I found a 1953 "Lightweight 400" model 217... missing the bell and leadpipe but.. with a valve block that looked intact.. So I took a gamble.. and it worked out the valves were in good shape.. but the nipple where the bell attached was kinked and actually folded over on itself like a Z. I had a friend who is a professional fix that part because I was worried about overworking and cracking the brass.

The rest came together pretty easily. Lots of dent work on the bell and slide crooks. I fabricated a new upper main tuning slide upper (both inner and outer) and attached the original ferrules, decorative rings, and pinky hook. The original 225 valve block was wider and both the bell and the leadpipe were soldered directly to the valve block. On this one only the leadpipe is soldered and the bell is free on that side. I put a fixed ring on the 3rd slide because the original box was damaged and I hate adjustible 3rd slide rings. Then I added a thumb saddle form a 1940's Olds Super.

The result a super dark and smokey trumpet that is nice and bendy with slots a mile wide. I see why "The 400" is often called a "Poor Man's Committee". Feels a little tight by todays standards.. it was a large bore in 1938 but only measures 0.456" so on the low side of ML today.

I didn't go for a resotration.. I didn't take out every ding, and left it in raw brass (except the valve block which I didn't strip. It still has about 50% original lacquer, and I will probably be making a wrap for it at some point.) Even paying my friend an hour of shop time for straightening the nipple... my total cost is less than $200 (2 scrap trumpets, a length of nickel silver tubing and matching brass tubing for the tuning slide fabrication, felts, corks, and other supplies.. and about 10 hours of my time for the dentwork, fabrication, and assembly.

u/professor_throway — 5 days ago
▲ 0 r/horn

Venting Rotors??

Another question from a clueless tuba player. You guys/gals were so responsive on my last question (about comfort level on rotor maintenance).. I thought I would ping you again.

I am in the very early stages of finding a horn to purchase for basement noodling maybe some street jazz use etc (tough going as inexpensive Bb singles seem to be as rare as hens teeth... no I don't want a double or single F. I am not playing horn lit.. I will be reading from jazz real books and lead sheets most of which are in C.. or from Bb trumpet parts/trombone books etc.. I am good with playing from those sources on Bb instruments.. sacrilege I know).

One of the first things I do on any brass isntrument is to vent the rotors or pistons (if it isn't done already), so I have easier slide manipulation while playing and to avoid any pop from pressure due to temperature changes etc while playing. All of my instruments from high trumpets down to my tubas have vented valves. I tried to search but it appears that venting rotors on horns just isn't a thing??? Why not?

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u/professor_throway — 2 months ago
▲ 6 r/horn

How comfortable are you with working on your rotors?

Ok.. I am a tuba player not a horn player.. but it seems that every horn player I've ever spoken too seems to think rotors are mysterious mechanisms that can only be touched by professional repair techs (preferably specialized horn folks).. by comparison us tuba players will happily down a few beers then take a mallet to our tubas to knock out the rotors for regular cleaning. Do I just need to find some more laid back horn players? Or do you all think it is barbarous to service your own instrument?

EDIT: Thanks to everyone that responded. I guess I need to meet less stuffy horn players.

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u/professor_throway — 2 months ago

Yamaha YSL-354 quick measurement request

Anyone have a Yamaha YSL-354 and a pair of calipers handy??? Heck even a really good ruler would probably be OK.

I have a yamaha ysl-352 that has a severly damaged handslide crook and I am trying to determine if a new crook from a ysl-354 would be a potential replacement.

Could you take three quick caliper measurements from the outer handslide of your Yamaha YSL-354? Please measure on the two straight outer-slide tubes near the bottom bow/crook, just above the ferrules, avoiding the brace, solder joints. Measuring to the nearest 0.001" is ideal, but the nearest 0.01" would still help.

  1. Overall outside width across both tubes: caliper jaws on the far outside of the two parallel outer-slide tubes.
  2. Outside diameter of one outer-slide tube: measure across one tube by itself in the same general area.
  3. Clear inside gap between the two tubes: caliper jaws between the tubes, touching the inside-facing surfaces.

I know that these measurments are redundant and any 2 of the 3 would give me enough information. I just want to minimize the odds of needing to ask for help again.

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u/professor_throway — 3 months ago