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u/raddit-6

r/climbharder
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Heavy Boulderer Plan

21 years climbing 6'2" 195lb +1 ape

Just starting a new plan. Struggling the last few years as I've gained 25 pounds and experienced the effects on my recovery and connective tissue capacity. I'm attempting to address my weaker styles and movements through focused repetition, usually on problems a grade or two below my current flash level.

Goals are dependent on/limited by constraints getting outside.

Thoughts, questions, or concerns?

2026 Goals - climb at least one new v10 outside by the end of 2026, v10 on TB2, climb every V9/10 in one session at each gym location during performance phase, climb every slab v5+ at each gym
2027 Goals - at least one V11 outside by the end of 2027, climb v11 on TB2, climb every 9/10 in one session at each gym during sending week

Weight 194-195lbs at the start the cycle 

~3-3.5 month cycle depending on rest days in between sessions and length of performance (2 or 3 weeks)

Intense finger TuT = 70%+ of max

1-3 rest days between sessions, depending on feeling, availability, and session focus. 
Mostly 2 days between sessions

Active recovery on rest days - stretching, bodyweight rotator cuff movement, elbow movement/rotation, light finger extensor training, biking, swimming

Dates are all approximate

All phases - deload/taper/send phases ½ volume or skip 
*once weekly after climbing 
^ the next day when taking 2 rest days, 
exercises can be spread throughout the week, 
1 set/side/exercise 

  • *External rotation - seated w/ elbow on knee 8-12
  • *Lateral raises 8-12
  • *Wrist each direction 30 sec total TuT 4 min
  • *Pinky mono 30 sec/side (once weight pin is brought back from Porto)
  • *Tricep pulls 8-10/side
  • ^Wrist extension 10 r
  • ^Wrist roller 10 sec 
  • ^Alternate between weighted scapular pullup and pushup
  • ^Alternate: Romanian deadlift with 1 weight AND Hungarian split squat 8-10r
  • ^Pelvic lift and leg extensions w/ feet in trx rungs 3-6 reps
  • ^Alternate: Ab-wheel (progress with weight vest) AND Hanging leg raises or progress to pikes (seated leg lifts)
  • ^Alternate: Pallof press (progress with bands) AND Copenhagen high step plank (progress with bands)
  • *Half-kneel forward fold w/ strap-assisted rotator cuff stretch (hands behind back, elbows pointed up/down, progress to clasping fingers)
  • *Pec stretch in doorway
  • *90/90 seated hip rotations
  • *Forearm flexor/extensor stretches
  • *Knee-to-wall ankle stretch (progress moving foot further from wall)
  • *Kneeling thoracic rotation
  • *Adductor rock back
  • *Hip airplane (progress with weight in bottom hand)
  • *High-step lift (lift high-step foot from platform w/ rotated hip, press down into platform) 
  • *Cossack squat
  • *Angels
  • Warmup = dynamic stretching and boulder ladder with scapular retraction, drop knees, heel hooks, and toe hooks loaded >50% on each side

Volume/Skill August 11-25 
6 sessions, alternating 2 volume/1 power+endurance 
~ expected total finger TuT 2-2.5 hours ~ expected intense finger TuT 13 minutes

  • warmup ladder climbing V7 and below, ~20 min
  • 2-3 hours, eat a piece of fruit every hour right sending a long climb, V7 and below, repeat anything fallen on or that felt difficult on at least one more session, 1-5 min rest
  • Focus on: foot pressure (in different directions), pelvis-to-wall, transmitting tension into movement, anti-rotation, tension modulation
  • Hard session - limit bouldering V9-10 25-35 min total with ~5-7 attempts, 2-8 min rest, then attempt one 3x3 on an 8+ move V5/6

Deload August 25-September 2 
2 sessions 
~expected total finger TuT .25-.75 hour
~expected intense finger TuT 1 minute

  • 1 hour climbing max v7

Strength - September 2-23  
7 sessions - alternate sessions 1/1
~expected total finger TuT 2 hours
~expected intense finger TuT 20 minutes
1 set each exercise, 2-5 reps, aiming for 8/10 RPE

  • warmup ladder through V8, ~40 min, PAP heavy pull 7 sec lower, 15 sec rest between sides, done in between V6 and V7
  • Max hangs x2 (half crimp), wide/medium/small pinch max hangs, one 2 finger pocket hang, good sloper max hang (on Rock Prodigy Forge)
  • Reaching trx/ring rows w/ feet elevated to just under final shoulder height 
  • Wide pull-up 
  • Flys 
  • Overhead press 
  • Bench press
  • Dips
  • Lockoff at 1-2 weakest angle(s) begin by testing strength at dif angles 10-15 sec
  • one 3x3 on an 8+ move V5/6

AND

  •  Warmup through V7
  • 20 minutes limit bouldering V9-11
  • 30 min climbing boards V5-V8 focused on technique

Deload September 23-October 2 
2 sessions
~expected total finger TuT 20 min
~expected intense finger TuT 5 min

  • warmup ladder through V7, ~20 min, PAP heavy pull 7 sec lower, 15 sec rest between sides, done in between V6 and V7
  • 30 min climbing V8/9 
  • Focus on: foot pressure (in different directions and with heels and toes), pelvis-to-wall, transmitting tension into movement, anti-rotation, tension modulation

Power - October 2-24  
7 sessions
~expected total finger TuT 2 hours
~expected intense finger TuT 15 minutes

  • warmup ladder through V7, ~20 min, PAP heavy pull 7 sec lower, 15 sec rest between sides, done in between V6 and V7
  • 10-15 sec (1-2 moves) steep, big moves, 40-45 minutes with 9 solid attempts, 3-5 min rest between each attempt
  • 15-20 min coordination power moves (jumping, paddle-throughs, running volumes)
  • 30 minutes skill practice at V6 and below - Focus on: foot pressure (in different directions), pelvis-to-wall, transmitting tension into movement, anti-rotation, tension modulation

Deload - October 24-31
2 sessions
~expected total finger TuT 20 min
~expected intense finger TuT 5 min

  • warmup ladder through V7, ~20 min, PAP heavy pull 7 sec lower, 15 sec rest between sides, done in between V6 and V7
  • 30 min climbing V8/9 
  • Focus on: foot pressure (in different directions and with heels and toes), pelvis-to-wall, transmitting tension into movement, anti-rotation, tension modulation

Power Endurance - October 31-November 16 
5 sessions
~expected total finger TuT 1 hour
~expected intense finger TuT 5-10 min

  • All sessions warmup ladder through V7, ~20 min, PAP heavy pull 7 sec lower, 15 sec rest between sides, done in between V6 and V7
  • Sessions 1,2,4, and 5 Endurance sessions alternating between
    • 3x4 - V5/V6 - climb 4x then 1 min rest, repeat 4x 
    • 6 in 6 - V7/V8 climb 6 times in 6 min), 8-13 move sequences
  • 3rd session limit bouldering 45 minutes, then - skill practice repeat 10 climbs v5-v7 focusing on climbs which feel technically difficult even in this range
  • Endurance sessions alternate between
    • 3x4 - V5/V6 - climb 4x then 1 min rest, repeat 4x 
    • 6 in 6 - V7/V8 climb 6 times in 6 min), 8-13 move sequences

Taper - November 16-30, 
4 sessions
All sessions include warmup ladder through V7 with PAP heavy pull 7 sec lower, 15 sec rest between sides, done in between V6 and V7, 2 half crimp lift sets (4 reps) at the end of the warmup
~expected total finger TuT 40 minutes
~expected intense finger TuT 5 minutes

  • Session 1 - 4-5 attempts 10-15 sec effort, 1-3 moves, 3-5 min rest, then 30 minutes V6 and below skill practice
  • Session 2 - 4-5 attempts 10-15 sec, 1-3 moves, 3-5 min rest, then 30 minutes V6 and below skill practice
  • Session 3 - 1 climb or 2 attempts at V8, then 4 by 2
  • Session 4 - 4-5 attempts 10-15 sec, 1-3 moves, 3-5 min rest, then 30 minutes V6 and below skill practice

Sending/Projecting November 30-December 14? 
~6 sessions
~expected total finger TuT 45 minutes
~expected intense finger TuT 35 minutes

  • warmup ladder through V7 focusing on preparing for specific projects, ~20 min, PAP heavy pull 7 sec lower, 15 sec rest between sides, done in between V6 and V7
  • 3-4 climbs, max 6 attempts each, ~1min rest/move, 1-2 hours, V9-11
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u/raddit-6 — 7 days ago