Max 4 Bed adhesion with PLA is way too strong
To all,
Per previous, Max 4 finally up and running. As I've done with my other printers (not many, just two Elegoos, a 1 and a 2), I printed a benchy and then a poop chute and a polar cooler stand/drainage bin. Note: While others have said they see no water from the Polar Cooler drip tube, where I am has my house at 38% relative humidity and I am getting a slow (very slow), drip from the tube that could cause damage on a hardwood floor or soak a small area of carpet for a long print (the poop chute and polar cooler stand were each about 16 hour prints). Note: Prior to any printing, I removed the build plate and scrubbed the hades out of it with Dawn, fingernail brush and I used rubber gloves to do all of this to ensure no body oils.
Now, I have yet to do a full calibration (that's the next step), but of all 3 items printed, the PLA has stuck to the build plate (default textured side of the build plate), almost worse than any PETG I've done on the Elegoo's. We're talking 15+ minutes with plastic scrapers, fingernails, alcohol, freezer, and reheating the bed to get it all off.
Per google/AI, the probable cause is the nozzle is too close to the bed and driving the filament into the textured surface, changing the Z-offset and/or using a release agent is recommended. As I noted previously, I can watch the fluid print log and I see the start print probe calibration and it's setting a Z-offset at the end of the process. So, the questions boil down to this:
- The device tab shows Z-offset is currently set to zero while the machine is idle. I'm assuming the probe sets it to a per job setting and then it is reset back to zero (as I said, I saw the previous probes say they're setting a Z-offset) when the job is done?
- If I set a permanent Z-offset via the machine panel, will it be picked up/override or be additive to a normal probe? Note: The google/AI and the search entries (mostly reddit posts), are adamant about doing it at the machine and not in the slicer.
- I want to set at least a minimum Z-offset before I run the normal .2mm film test because I don't even want to think about scraping that much PLA off. What would you use as a starting point?
- And finally, when setting the Z-offset, since this is a core X/Y, to move the plate further away from the nozzle all my adjustments should be with the down arrow? Any up arrow movements would make the bed closer to the nozzle which is not what I'd want to do in this situation
Finally, once I get this done, I'll print a couple of stupid things and if they release easier I'll start of the full bed Z-offset calibration with the .2mm film. As I said, scared to death I'd never be able to get all of this off (and yes, I know I can stop it, but I'd still have to let it run long enough to dial in the Z-offset.
Bob