Why do you like to ride gravel?
For me, it's not the distance. I prefer a lot less cars, more nature, and that sweet sound of the crunch under the tires. The sound is literal ASMR for me.
For me, it's not the distance. I prefer a lot less cars, more nature, and that sweet sound of the crunch under the tires. The sound is literal ASMR for me.
I’ve had mostly decent experiences with cyclists on the road until this morning.
I was out on a quiet Sunday ride in the suburbs with almost no cars around when a loose dog came barking and charging toward me. To avoid it, I had to quickly move across an empty street and briefly ride against traffic to get away from the dog.
And when I say empty, I mean completely empty. It was a long, straight, flat suburban road and there literally were no cars going either direction as far as I could see. The only reason I crossed over was because of the dog.
Right as this was happening, another cyclist turned the corner heading toward me. He got angry because I was on the wrong side of the road and started swearing at me as he rode past, even though we were nowhere near colliding.
At the same time, I was yelling, “Loose dog! Loose dog!” and pointing because I was trying to warn him about what was coming.
A few seconds later I looked back and saw him swerving away from the dog too and kicking his foot out a bit trying to keep the dog from getting close to him.
I really think cyclists should pay attention when another rider is urgently yelling or pointing at something unusual. If someone is yelling “dog,” or motioning for you to look out, there’s probably a reason things aren’t normal in that moment.
And where can I get one? https://m.youtube.com/shorts/osrTMd8pbKc?ra=m
The bike is upside down as I take the picture. I have a bike stand that is ordered and on the way, but in the meantime, does this pulley wheel look too far away from the cassette? I asked because I’m having issues shifting only going from gear 3 to gear 2 with gear 3 being the smaller cog on the cassette and gear 2 being the larger cog. It shifts instantly, but just makes a noise for a split second like it’s struggling to grab the teeth, not always but enough that I notice it. Every other year shifts up and down quietly and instantly.
Update: SOLVED. Thank you for the excellent help from all!
Having decided to handle my own maintenance and learn along the way, what tools do I need for chain maintenance?
When you’re looking at torque specs and it gives you a range, for instance 6 to 8 Nm, where do you guys usually aim?
Should I go for the low end to be safe so nothing snaps, the high end to make sure it doesn’t vibrate loose, or just hit the middle?
Is there a general consensus on this? I’ve heard different things, like aiming for the middle to account for wrench calibration errors, but I’d love to know what the standard practice is.
Most weather apps give you numbers. Velowindow gives you an answer.
58°F, 14 mph wind, 25% chance of rain — is that a go or a no? A regular weather app makes you figure that out yourself. Velowindow calculates a 0–100 ride score so you don't have to.
It accounts for things normal weather apps ignore: apparent temperature not just air temp, gusts separately from sustained wind, dew point instead of humidity percentage, and recent rainfall for trail conditions. The score is also personalized by ride type — a windy day scores differently for a road cyclist than a mountain biker, because it is a different day.
It also identifies your best 3-hour window and warns you if conditions fall apart right after it.
Free PWA, works on iPhone and Android, no account needed.
I want to know if the score feels right. Pick a day you rode recently and check what it would have said. Where is it wrong?
Built in Bucks County.
Is this a Shimano Link Glide chain? It is supposed to be the LG-500. I ask because I was told by the shop I had the wrong one installed when I went in for shifting issues. I was given this one, and shifting was better, but a little rough today, and I decided to take a closer look. What does the XH or HX, whichever side is right side up, mean? Also, is this chain upside down?
I wanted to share an update on a bike issue I had a couple of weeks ago. I was experiencing a clunking sound and rough shifting when moving from gear one to gear two, and some other gears were a bit rough too. Many suggested a bent derailleur hanger might be the cause. I took my bike to a mechanic who found the hanger was minimally bent and straightened it for free, which was awesome. I tipped him, but the issue persisted.
Thinking the hanger might be bent again, I took my bike to a Trek store. Turns out, when I had my chain replaced at the start of the year, the wrong chain was installed. I have a Shimano CUES drivetrain, which requires link guide chains, but the mechanic at the independent bike store had put on a Hyperglide chain. The Trek mechanic noticed this, replaced it with the correct link guide chain, and the problem was fixed immediately.
I’m curious if the wrong chain could have worn down my cassette or even caused the slight bend in the derailleur hanger. I was pretty surprised by the whole situation and would love to hear your thoughts.
I’m messing around with my Trek Dual Sport 2 Gen 5 trying to turn it into more of a do it all bike. I ride roughly 60 percent pavement and 40 percent dirt, mostly local singletrack and towpaths. Nothing too crazy, but enough that the stock setup feels a bit limiting.
So far I’ve put on 27.5 x 2.2 Cross Kings, upgraded the brakes to MT201s, and added some better grips. I also just installed a threaded BB, so now I’m looking at ditching the square taper crank and going to a proper Hollowtech setup. Main goal is also getting a clutched derailleur because the chain slap is getting annoying off road.
Thinking about going with a full Deore M5100 1x11 setup:
M5100 drivetrain
M5100 SGS derailleur with clutch
11 to 51 cassette
M5100 1 cranks
34T chainring, maybe 36T
Also wondering about the gearing. With 60 percent road riding, is 34T going to feel too spinny on the top end, or is it fine paired with the 11T?
Appreciate any input.
I’m messing around with my BBC Dual Sport 2 Gen 5 trying to turn it into more of a do it all bike. I ride roughly 60 percent pavement and 40 percent dirt, mostly local singletrack and towpaths. Nothing too crazy, but enough that the stock setup feels a bit limiting.
So far I’ve put on 27.5 x 2.2 Cross Kings, upgraded the brakes to MT201s, and added some better grips. I also just installed a threaded BB, so now I’m looking at ditching the square taper crank and going to a proper Hollowtech setup. Main goal is also getting a clutched derailleur because the chain slap is getting annoying off road.
Thinking about going with a full Deore M5100 1x11 setup:
M5100 drivetrain
M5100 SGS derailleur with clutch
11 to 51 cassette
M5100 1 cranks
34T chainring, maybe 36T
Also wondering about the gearing. With 60 percent road riding, is 34T going to feel too spinny on the top end, or is it fine paired with the 11T?
Appreciate any input.
I was out for a ride on my local trails today and ended up relaxing on a bench. I noticed two people using the bike repair stand, both for the pump. One guy was pumping super aggressively, like he was in a race to inflate his tire the fastest. The next person took a much slower, methodical approach. It got me thinking, is there a more accurate way to pump tires? Are both methods equally effective? What’s your preference, and how do you usually do it?
I had to straighten my handlebars, and don’t have a torque wrench, just using a multi-tool right now. Does this look evenly tight to you?
Update: https://ibb.co/mC2J18rF
Looking for recommendations for a torque wrench, I think one that has the different bits, not a set of different size wrenches.
Which bolts do I loosen to straighten my handlebars? The two silver ones, the red one, or all three?
I’m following up on my previous post asking if a cassette looked worn. Now, I’m wondering if this looks like a bent derailer to you. The problem is that shifting from gear one to gear two makes a loud clunk, while all other shifts are smooth and quick. A mechanic adjusted the limit screw and barrel adjusters but couldn’t fix the clunk. Based on feedback from my last post, I thought I’d share some pictures to see if anyone can help. By the way, it’s surprisingly tricky to get a straight on shot of this view when taking a picture.
Edit: some more pics Thai time with the chain in gear 5, first pics were gear 2. If any of that matters.
I’m wondering if this Shimano Cues 9 speed cassette looks worn enough to replace. It’s exactly one year old with 3300 miles on it. I’ve already replaced the chain, and a bike mechanic suggested it’s time for a new cassette. I thought I was supposed to get more use out of Cues.
Edit: just to add that I had a mechanic look at it because it is shifting rough from gear one to gear two. All other gears shift smoothly, quietly, and normally.