u/vladakv

I want to share my experience with replacement batteries because over the last few days I have been testing NOHON, DEJI, and original batteries on older Samsung phones, and I discovered something quite important.

On my Galaxy S6 edge, I installed a brand-new NOHON battery and, even after several charge cycles, AccuBattery was basically stuck at around 91% health.

On my Galaxy S8+, the situation looked even worse. A new NOHON battery was showing only around 86% capacity after several cycles.

At first, I naturally assumed that the batteries simply had less real capacity than advertised.

However, the problem turned out to be more complicated.

Older Samsung phones can keep battery-related data from the previous battery, including cycle count, discharge data, fuel-gauge/ASOC values, and other information used by the system to estimate battery condition.

Simply replacing the physical battery does not necessarily reset all of this data properly.

Because of that, the phone may continue estimating the new battery using old battery/fuel-gauge information, and an app such as AccuBattery can then calculate capacity based on incorrect system data.

On the Galaxy S6 edge and S8+, a proper battery/fuel-gauge reset is not as simple as doing a factory reset or clearing AccuBattery data. On these older devices, gaining the necessary access may require procedures involving Odin, TWRP/root, etc., which in my case also means accepting Knox 0x1.

After properly resetting the relevant battery data, the results changed dramatically:

Galaxy S6 edge + NOHON: around 96% capacity

Galaxy S8+ + NOHON: around 99% capacity

So the exact same batteries that I initially thought had only 86–91% of their rated capacity showed almost their full advertised capacity after the old battery/fuel-gauge data was reset.

On newer Samsung devices, things are much easier.

Samsung provides the Self Repair Assistant / Repair Assistant, which can reset the relevant battery cycle information after a battery replacement. On some devices and software versions, methods involving Shizuku + SMT Shell can also be useful, although compatibility depends on the exact model and Android/One UI version.

So my advice to anyone replacing a battery in an older Samsung phone is:

Do not immediately assume that a new battery is bad just because AccuBattery shows 80–90% health.

If the phone has many years of use and a large number of cycles from the previous battery, first check whether the battery/fuel-gauge data has actually been reset correctly.

Also, a normal factory reset of the phone is not necessarily the same thing as a proper battery statistics/fuel-gauge reset.

Of course, I am not saying that every 80–90% AccuBattery result is caused by calibration. Some replacement batteries really do have lower-than-advertised capacity. But my experience shows that on older Samsung phones, you should not judge a new battery only by AccuBattery before checking the phone's battery/fuel-gauge data.

I actually made this mistake myself and initially blamed the NOHON seller because I thought the batteries were under capacity. After much more testing and a proper reset, it turned out that the batteries were actually very good.

Hopefully this helps someone avoid buying a second or third battery unnecessarily.

I want to share my experience with replacement batteries because over the last few days I have been testing NOHON, DEJI, and original batteries on older Samsung phones, and I discovered something quite important.

On my Galaxy S6 edge, I installed a brand-new NOHON battery and, even after several charge cycles, AccuBattery was basically stuck at around 91% health.

On my Galaxy S8+, the situation looked even worse. A new NOHON battery was showing only around 86% capacity after several cycles.

At first, I naturally assumed that the batteries simply had less real capacity than advertised.

However, the problem turned out to be more complicated.

Older Samsung phones can keep battery-related data from the previous battery, including cycle count, discharge data, fuel-gauge/ASOC values, and other information used by the system to estimate battery condition.

Simply replacing the physical battery does not necessarily reset all of this data properly.

Because of that, the phone may continue estimating the new battery using old battery/fuel-gauge information, and an app such as AccuBattery can then calculate capacity based on incorrect system data.

On the Galaxy S6 edge and S8+, a proper battery/fuel-gauge reset is not as simple as doing a factory reset or clearing AccuBattery data. On these older devices, gaining the necessary access may require procedures involving Odin, TWRP/root, etc., which in my case also means accepting Knox 0x1.

After properly resetting the relevant battery data, the results changed dramatically:

Galaxy S6 edge + NOHON: around 96% capacity

Galaxy S8+ + NOHON: around 99% capacity

So the exact same batteries that I initially thought had only 86–91% of their rated capacity showed almost their full advertised capacity after the old battery/fuel-gauge data was reset.

On newer Samsung devices, things are much easier.

Samsung provides the Self Repair Assistant / Repair Assistant, which can reset the relevant battery cycle information after a battery replacement. On some devices and software versions, methods involving Shizuku + SMT Shell can also be useful, although compatibility depends on the exact model and Android/One UI version.

So my advice to anyone replacing a battery in an older Samsung phone is:

Do not immediately assume that a new battery is bad just because AccuBattery shows 80–90% health.

If the phone has many years of use and a large number of cycles from the previous battery, first check whether the battery/fuel-gauge data has actually been reset correctly.

Also, a normal factory reset of the phone is not necessarily the same thing as a proper battery statistics/fuel-gauge reset.

Of course, I am not saying that every 80–90% AccuBattery result is caused by calibration. Some replacement batteries really do have lower-than-advertised capacity. But my experience shows that on older Samsung phones, you should not judge a new battery only by AccuBattery before checking the phone's battery/fuel-gauge data.

I actually made this mistake myself and initially blamed the NOHON seller because I thought the batteries were under capacity. After much more testing and a proper reset, it turned out that the batteries were actually very good.

Hopefully this helps someone avoid buying a second or third battery unnecessarily.

I want to share my experience with replacement batteries because over the last few days I have been testing NOHON, DEJI, and original batteries on older Samsung phones, and I discovered something quite important.

On my Galaxy S6 edge, I installed a brand-new NOHON battery and, even after several charge cycles, AccuBattery was basically stuck at around 91% health.

On my Galaxy S8+, the situation looked even worse. A new NOHON battery was showing only around 86% capacity after several cycles.

At first, I naturally assumed that the batteries simply had less real capacity than advertised.

However, the problem turned out to be more complicated.

Older Samsung phones can keep battery-related data from the previous battery, including cycle count, discharge data, fuel-gauge/ASOC values, and other information used by the system to estimate battery condition.

Simply replacing the physical battery does not necessarily reset all of this data properly.

Because of that, the phone may continue estimating the new battery using old battery/fuel-gauge information, and an app such as AccuBattery can then calculate capacity based on incorrect system data.

On the Galaxy S6 edge and S8+, a proper battery/fuel-gauge reset is not as simple as doing a factory reset or clearing AccuBattery data. On these older devices, gaining the necessary access may require procedures involving Odin, TWRP/root, etc., which in my case also means accepting Knox 0x1.

After properly resetting the relevant battery data, the results changed dramatically:

Galaxy S6 edge + NOHON: around 96% capacity

Galaxy S8+ + NOHON: around 99% capacity

So the exact same batteries that I initially thought had only 86–91% of their rated capacity showed almost their full advertised capacity after the old battery/fuel-gauge data was reset.

On newer Samsung devices, things are much easier.

Samsung provides the Self Repair Assistant / Repair Assistant, which can reset the relevant battery cycle information after a battery replacement. On some devices and software versions, methods involving Shizuku + SMT Shell can also be useful, although compatibility depends on the exact model and Android/One UI version.

So my advice to anyone replacing a battery in an older Samsung phone is:

Do not immediately assume that a new battery is bad just because AccuBattery shows 80–90% health.

If the phone has many years of use and a large number of cycles from the previous battery, first check whether the battery/fuel-gauge data has actually been reset correctly.

Also, a normal factory reset of the phone is not necessarily the same thing as a proper battery statistics/fuel-gauge reset.

Of course, I am not saying that every 80–90% AccuBattery result is caused by calibration. Some replacement batteries really do have lower-than-advertised capacity. But my experience shows that on older Samsung phones, you should not judge a new battery only by AccuBattery before checking the phone's battery/fuel-gauge data.

I actually made this mistake myself and initially blamed the NOHON seller because I thought the batteries were under capacity. After much more testing and a proper reset, it turned out that the batteries were actually very good.

Hopefully this helps someone avoid buying a second or third battery unnecessarily.

I want to share my experience with replacement batteries because over the last few days I have been testing NOHON, DEJI, and original batteries on older Samsung phones, and I discovered something quite important.

On my Galaxy S6 edge, I installed a brand-new NOHON battery and, even after several charge cycles, AccuBattery was basically stuck at around 91% health.

On my Galaxy S8+, the situation looked even worse. A new NOHON battery was showing only around 86% capacity after several cycles.

At first, I naturally assumed that the batteries simply had less real capacity than advertised.

However, the problem turned out to be more complicated.

Older Samsung phones can keep battery-related data from the previous battery, including cycle count, discharge data, fuel-gauge/ASOC values, and other information used by the system to estimate battery condition.

Simply replacing the physical battery does not necessarily reset all of this data properly.

Because of that, the phone may continue estimating the new battery using old battery/fuel-gauge information, and an app such as AccuBattery can then calculate capacity based on incorrect system data.

On the Galaxy S6 edge and S8+, a proper battery/fuel-gauge reset is not as simple as doing a factory reset or clearing AccuBattery data. On these older devices, gaining the necessary access may require procedures involving Odin, TWRP/root, etc., which in my case also means accepting Knox 0x1.

After properly resetting the relevant battery data, the results changed dramatically:

Galaxy S6 edge + NOHON: around 96% capacity

Galaxy S8+ + NOHON: around 99% capacity

So the exact same batteries that I initially thought had only 86–91% of their rated capacity showed almost their full advertised capacity after the old battery/fuel-gauge data was reset.

On newer Samsung devices, things are much easier.

Samsung provides the Self Repair Assistant / Repair Assistant, which can reset the relevant battery cycle information after a battery replacement. On some devices and software versions, methods involving Shizuku + SMT Shell can also be useful, although compatibility depends on the exact model and Android/One UI version.

So my advice to anyone replacing a battery in an older Samsung phone is:

Do not immediately assume that a new battery is bad just because AccuBattery shows 80–90% health.

If the phone has many years of use and a large number of cycles from the previous battery, first check whether the battery/fuel-gauge data has actually been reset correctly.

Also, a normal factory reset of the phone is not necessarily the same thing as a proper battery statistics/fuel-gauge reset.

Of course, I am not saying that every 80–90% AccuBattery result is caused by calibration. Some replacement batteries really do have lower-than-advertised capacity. But my experience shows that on older Samsung phones, you should not judge a new battery only by AccuBattery before checking the phone's battery/fuel-gauge data.

I actually made this mistake myself and initially blamed the NOHON seller because I thought the batteries were under capacity. After much more testing and a proper reset, it turned out that the batteries were actually very good.

Hopefully this helps someone avoid buying a second or third battery unnecessarily.

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Kao što naslov navodi - koje biste preporučili putno osiguranje za tročlanu porodicu?

I recently serviced an MSI RTX 3080 Gaming Z Trio 10GB for a friend. The card was cleaned, repasted and repadded.

I used Upsiren 21 W/mK thermal pads on the memory/VRM areas and Thermal Grizzly pads around the GPU core area. For the GPU die itself, I used Arctic MX-6 thermal paste.

The card is installed in a Cooler Master TD500 Mesh case with good airflow:

3×120 mm front intake fans

3×120 mm top exhaust fans on an NZXT Kraken Elite 360 radiator

1×120 mm rear exhaust fan

PC case side panel closed during testing

PSU: be quiet! Power Zone 2 1200W

All tests were done at 4K Ultra on a 32-inch 144Hz monitor, including:

Uncharted 4

GTA V

Superposition

Time Spy Extreme

Unigine Heaven 4

Current temperatures are much better than before. Under load, the GPU core is usually around 63–65°C with an aggressive fan curve, around 70% fan speed at 65°C. The hotspot is mostly around 78–80°C max. Memory junction is usually around 78–84°C, mostly around 82°C. The card pulls around 355–370W.

Before the service, the hotspot was around 90°C, and VRAM was around 96–100°C, so the improvement is significant, especially on memory temperatures.

My only concern is the GPU core to hotspot delta, which is mostly around 14–16°C.

I placed thermal pads on every spot where they should be, but I couldn’t find any official information showing exactly where each pad goes and what the exact thickness should be. Because of that, I chose the pad thicknesses based on forum posts and other users’ experiences with this model.

The card does not overheat and overall temperatures are much better than before, but I would still like to know:

Is a 14–16°C GPU-to-hotspot delta normal for this card under this kind of load, or could it indicate slightly uneven cooler contact, mounting pressure, paste spread, or possibly wrong thermal pad thickness somewhere?

Also, can anyone confirm the exact thermal pad thicknesses for each position on the MSI RTX 3080 Gaming Z Trio 10GB?

Thanks in advance.