u/wgdvs

I currently have PiPedal running on a CM4 that's attached to my HX Stomp as an audio interface and I can get NAM captures to run and I'm able to use the wet HX effects after the NAM A2 capture and IR. My question: Has anyone had luck with physical stompboxes for drives in front of A2 captures? I normally run my stomp at edge of breakup and push it with a Foxcather and Klone. Will this work well with the NAM captures still or will it be better to have different NAM captures on the CM4 and switch between them using a MIDI controller? Going to start experimenting this weekend, I just wasn't sure if anyone else has done anything similar (or with the Darkglass NAM loader/etc).

EDIT: I will be posting an update later this weekend once my case for my CM4/carrier is done printing and I get it on the pedalboard and dialed in. Stay tuned and I'll post the update link here as well.

We recently moved into a 3200 sq ft 1.5 story house in SW Indiana that has a 3 ton outside unit and is zoned for downstairs (zone 1) and upstairs (zone 2). This is the first house we've had with a zoned system and I've heard a mixed bag of "this is most efficient". After my last $400 energy bill, figured it's time to research and check a few things.

Currently we keep upstairs at 75 and downstairs at 74. The main concern I've got is that it seems to be running quite continuously on 90+ degree days (which is likely normal, we're just used to geothermal heat pumps that could keep up a bit easier). Part of the concern is the system seems to 'ping-pong' between upstairs and down (it will finish cooling upstairs just for it to stop, purge, then switch to downstairs, then vice versa). An HVAC buddy told me that opening the bleed damper a bit on the downstairs section might help the ping-pong effect (which makes sense to me). My question: by doing that, will that possibly help keep the unit from running as much/give it a bit more downtime? Should we be keeping the dampers on the default/closed when not running setting or is it best to let a bit bleed? Would it be more energy efficient to run it off say the downstairs or upstairs thermostat, keep the dampers totally open all the time and run it like a single unit (concern here is that we might be undersized to do this)? Any advice is welcome!

I’m coming from a long period of tele playing and I’ve got the opportunity to buy a buddy’s Charger RA. Honestly, I have no idea on pricing these. He’s asking $650 for it and it’s in good condition. I can’t find the old MSRP price, are these worth that? I can provide more info if needed.