Folio Society - Gertrude Bell (Syria and Lebanon Homage)
Having read about Gertrude Bell's incredible life, it inspired me to follow some of her footsteps. Exploring her adventures around the Middle East, I have decided to pay homage by sharing some photos of the famous landmark's she, and now I, visited. Specifically in Lebanon and Syria.
Gertrude Bell, was a political administrator, writer, intelligence gatherer, in the early 19th who played a commanding role in shaping the modern borders of the Middle East.
She was the only woman present at the Cairo Conference, 1921, where she stood alongside Churchill and Lawrence of Arabia. Helping place King Faisal on the Iraqi throne. Bell strategically made use of Kurds as a buffer, from invasions to protect the newly formed borders. For that reason Gertrude Bell is sometimes referred to as the 'uncrowned Queen of Iraq'.
Gertrude Bell was born into wealth, where her family estate exploited the industrial coal and iron era of Britain. Having her mother passed away early in her life, she was raised by her father whom she grew close to. She became the first woman to earn a first-honors degree in history at Oxford University. During her intense life she was plagued by unfulfilled romances and personal isolation. She never married or had children. Instead pouring her energy into a political career and extensive travels. Bell passed away in Baghdad, 1926, from what is speculated to be an intentional overdoses, on her 58th Birthday. Today you will find the 'Iraq Museum' that Bell helped establish, in the capital, which is currently undergoing renovation.
Earlier in her career she traveled through Lebanon and Syria, among other Middle Eastern countries, where she compiled her journals in what became titled; Syria: The Desert and the Sown. A book that Folio Society has decided to make their own edition of (see image 2, 3). While traveling through Syria and Lebanon, Gertrude Bell documented ancient ruins, local tribal politics, and the daily life of everyday people. Some of the historically important regions she visited are the following (my own personal photos from November, 2025);
- Image number 1, 4, 5, 6, 7
The Roman Temples of Baalbek found in Beqaa valley (logistical stronghold of now Hezbollah), and further from Beqaa valley, the Baatara Gorge Waterfall. Some of the largest and most well preserved ruins in history. A region populated in the neolithic era, where later, Phoenician settlers built stone platforms in tribute to their sky God, Baal.
Followed by the conquest of Alexander the Great, where he renamed the city to Heliopolis (City of the Sun). Integrating the Hellenistic God of Sun, Helios, with Baal.
Afterward, the arrival of Julius Caesar, transforming the place into a Roman colony. Building three colossal temples in the names of Venus, Bacchus and Jupiter.
As Christianity was legalized, by Constantine the Great, construction for polytheistic past, ceased. A Christian Basilica being raised in the courtyard instead.
Eventually the Muslims arrived. Transforming the place into a citadel with big outer walls and towers. Adding in a Mosque, so on and so forth.
Finally, in the 1980s, Hezbollah has been using the region as a logistical center for recruitment, politics etc.
- Image number 8, 9, 10
Byblos. Ancient Phoenician port city where the word 'Bible' comes from. Primary trading center for papyrus in the old world. One of the oldest continuously inhabited cities in the world (5000 BC). This place is recognized for developing the ancient Phoenician alphabet which is the precursor to Greek, Latin and Arabic alphabets. The fortress or citadel was built by crusaders who recycled rocks from local Roman ruins.
- Image number 11
Beirut. Capital of Lebanon, Mohammad al Amin Mosque.
- Image number 12, 13, 14
Umayyad Mosque and bazaars of Damascus.
The holes in the ceiling being bullet holes from French warplanes during the Syrian revolt against colonial rule.
A city so ancient (perhaps 10.000 years old?), having hosted numerous civilizations that have come and gone. Arameans, Babylonians, Assyrians, Greeks, Romans, Byzantine, early Islamic caliphates, Ottomans and French mandate... All leaving its mark on the stone walls that can still be seen and studied today. I have never felt so much history, condensed millennium's, in the air. Today, this particular street, leads up to the main Mosque and functions as a market. Clothes, machinery, fresh produce, cafes and restaurants etc. are all readily available for those who pass by.
At the end you will find the fourth holiest site in Islam after Mecca, Medina, Jerusalem; Umayyad Mosque. Inside, it hosts an interior marble shrine. Believed by Muslims and Christians, to contain the head of John the Baptist (prophet Yahya).
- Image number 15, 16, 17
Palmyra. Ancient Silk road hub, where Greco-Roman architecture is mixed with local Syrian style and Persian influence. It's most famous ruler Queen Zenobia, broke away to shape her own Empire. Before being defeated by Emperor Aurelian, she conquered Egypt and major parts of Anatolia. The citadel on the high hill, came later, 13th century. Built by the Mamluks, overlooking the ancient city of Palmyra.
Partially, destroyed by ISIS a decade ago. When the terrorist captured Palmyra, it's guardian and archaeologist, Khaled al-Asaad, moved as many ancient artifacts to a safer location. For protection of ancient cultural heritage. Under a month of torture, the extremist demanded to know the hidden location of Palmyra's treasure and artifacts. Upon refusal, he was publicly executed. Choosing protection of human history, over his own life.
- Image number 18
Krak des Chevaliers. Damaged by Bashar regime during the civil war. Known for hosting Knights Hospitaller, Saladin etc.
Perhaps, Saladin, being known in pop culture for his portrayal in the movie Kingdom of Heaven. Starring Orlando Bloom and other famous actors. A man with Kurdish roots, that became a sultanate and founder of the Ayyubid dynasty. Uniting Islamic factions and waging war against western crusades. Most famously, reclaiming Jerusalem after a near century of Christian occupation. Revered among Christians and Muslims, for his wisdom and chivalrous nature. Despite his fierce military rivalry with Baldwin of Jerusalem, (the 'Leper king') for the Holy land. They portrayed deep tactical respect, diplomatic ties and mutual admiration. Baldwin being tormented from a young age by Leprosy, had his rival send his own personal physicians, to exchange knowledge of Islamic medicine.
- Image number 19
Maaloula. Christian community where they still speak neo-Aramaic, language of Jesus Christ.
- Image number 20
Homs. Crossroad city between Damascus and Aleppo. Destroyed by recent conflict. Nearby, another city called Hama, known for its massive wooden waterwheels. An image, I chose, where I want to portray the reality of the long suffering the Syrian people endure. Brutal dictatorships, that have failed its people for too long.
Please enjoy
Link to imgur for those who prefer:
https://imgur.com/gallery/lebanon-syria-gertrude-bell-travel-tribute-november-2025-CLWaTV4