

Interior
These pics go along with the s14 i posted that I used to have. Full interior, perfect dash, etc. Miss the car but have a chaser and an s13 to keep me occupied. Thanks for looking.


These pics go along with the s14 i posted that I used to have. Full interior, perfect dash, etc. Miss the car but have a chaser and an s13 to keep me occupied. Thanks for looking.
Made with pencils and markers on A3 paper size
Took me about 30 hours of work to make it
I have 15” wheels and I wanna go for 17”, but I’m very ignorant on the matter and I have no clue which fits and rides better.
The only thing I’m sure is that for now I don’t wanna roll fenders so I’d like something that fit as is, or if it needs slight camber it’s ok.
I’ve been told 17x9 with ET from 15 to 25 is a great fit without needed modifications, with tyres 235/40
Wanted to share the old s14 I regret selling. (Thankfully I was able to pick up and build an s13). But this car was bone stock, auto KA and I bought it for $2100 in 2010. Sr swapped and full navan kit. Drove incredibly well. Thanks for taking a look.
Picked this one up 2 days ago. It has a bunch of isr parts like the control arms, exhausts and headers. hoses, mishimoto rad, and all the bells and whistles thats you would want on a 240. 350z wheels and 300zx brembos. Has the full interior just needs driver door card. But frames are straight and full body kit. Aswell as brand new kouki headlights. Oem hood and wing with front brace bar. Although does have a welded diff so might throw in the 300zx lsd in there. But all in all really fun car. Cant wait to fix the body and get a fresh coat of paint.
What this basically is is a PID controlled PWM Solenoid driver, running on a C3 SuperMini. Designed my first PCB for this (with some mistakes ofc) and decided to use a TC4422 mosfet driver. Also included a 5V supply to be able to plug it into my cars 12v system. Code was mostly written by an LLM, including the Webserver which this is running for setting Target and PID parameters. (I'm a real newbie with all of this) I'm already working on rev2 which I'm gonna post on GitHub solving all my issues with this one. (https://github.com/ziraw).
I've tested the perfboard prototype on my car already (1989 200SX CA18DET) with a BMW N75 Boost Valve strapped to my waste gate and it seems to work perfectly, just not getting enough air through the OEM Airbox though atm, hitting a ceiling of 0.9bar. Gonna install this soon and see what it does. I/O: 12v,5v,sensor(i/o), valve.
The only thing this doesn't include ATM is a pressure sensor, I'm grabbing it off of my boost gauge. But the IO has a 5V supply for any type of sensor to be hooked up directly, the code might need adjusting through. It's currently Ov=-1 / 5V=+4 bar (Scaled to 3.3V and divided by 1.1 since that seems to reflect what my gauge is saying more accurately).
I don't specifically know why I made this, just thought it couldnt be that hard and I haven't seen anything like this, besides what maybe Speeduino and rusEFI are doing. If this already exists I'd love the be informed :-)
Cheers
(disclaimer: might blow up your engine)
Hey guys, im currently in the process of reassembling my engine after replacing the head gasket, and am at the point where ive torqued down the head using arp head studs and now im looking to reattach the upper intake manifold. The problem is I cannot get it to fit for the life of me, ive removed so much EGR stuff and have even removed the studs that the manifold would fit onto in the hopes that it would make it fit, but nope. If anyone could give me advice or route me to a good video discussing the topic that would be extremelyyyy helpful. Im really hoping that I dont have to take the head off again in order to get the intake manifold back on.
Anybody in the Chicagoland area looking for Work? Shops located in Saint Charles. I run an automotive repair shop and haven’t had time to work on the car so I’m looking for someone to do a few odds and end for me all cash work at least $125 an hour. Biggest is the rear quarter panels to install rear overs, clutch & throttle adjust ment and I’m sure there’s more we can do. Feel free to reach out to me. Sick of looking at this thing
I have a KA24DE swap in a 620 pickup with a 1996 ECU and a Wiring Specialties PRO harness. The harness has both the Consult plug and the OBD ll plug. I’m trying to diagnose a no spark situation and my thinking is bite the bullet and get the software and a cable. The best I can figure is I need NDS l and a Consult cable. I’m thinking of the PLMS Developments from Concept Z Performance. Kind of pricy but I tend to be a buy once cry once kind of person. I’m just trying to get an idea if I’m making a mistake.
Thanks, Derek
The owners instagram handle was on the left hand side of the red 240sx coupe, but I was unable to make it out. Spotted in Hollywood K-Town area.
Hey guys, my car is a former drift car so all stock electronics for the dash is non-existent, I’m trying to get some gauges and the light working.
I have no stock connectors for the dash but I do have the vss from the gearbox, can someone guide me where to connect each wire, I’ve been trying all kinds of ways that google says should work but it doesn’t work as I want it too.
The circuits are tested with a digital multimeter so that’s not the issue, the vss cables is also working. I’m running maxxecu but still want to have the stock dash working with at least speedometer and fuel level gauges. Thanks in advance!
When is the BOV suppose to open when your charging through the turbo inlet. Intake is seeing pressure sending it to the top of the BOV.
Just double checking myself it should open when I reach the target boost I’m making correct? On a static pressure test?
Sr20det s13 blacktop, Greddy Type S venting to atmosphere. Stock ecu targeting 7-10 psi but I’m only seeing 2-5 on both gauges driving, and the bov opens at 2.5 psi during static testing.