r/3rdGen4Runner

Sooo… I picked up my new 4Runner last week! 73,000 Miles

In my 3rd Gen so she can drive that Beauty.

Does anyone know where I can find this break line and fitting they seem to be leaking this is the front passenger side

I was literally just researching a list of hoses to get started on replacing them and found my passenger side to be extremely oily and find this hose has ripped!

What hose is this??

Anyone have a reference on the head unit connector layouts? I know they should be the same for all years of 3rd gen, but they're *not* the same for certain single vs double DIN layouts if there's a CD changer involved (or maybe other reasons, not sure)

I have a single DIN radio from a 99 SR5 that I want to put in my 97 SR5, but the 97 came with some trash tier early 2000s aftermarket setup, but luckily they used an adapter rather than cutting and splicing.

BUT the stock wires on my 97 don't match the plugs on the 99 radio, so unless I can find an adapter between those two I guess I'm going to have to cut and splice manually.

I can find lists of wires by colour for the 97 side, but I can't find the connector layout for the 99 radio side.

Any help or direction much appreciated!

EDIT: added variants matrix in comment

First week driving my 3rd gen after a sportier sedan. Main thing I’ve noticed is how much slower I now drive.

People where I live drive way too fast, and I kind of enjoy playing into the slower driving inconvenience for them. Anyone have any funny license plate holders that lean into the slow driving nature of the 3rd gen’s?

i picked up my 97 sr5 5 speed in august last year and my first and only code was a po420. among other things it got a new cat and more recently a new muffler. it wasn’t oem, but it was a $750 cat from a shop with good reviews. recently my truck is suuuuper sluggish. the mechanic i trust checked my plugs, maf, and did a back pressure test thru the 02 sensor hole to verify cat is bad again. exhaust shop says it’s less than 1% failure rate for their cats. my engine doesn’t seem to burn oil, it leaks, but it never produces white or blue smoke unless it’s from the cold air. where would you all start for burning oil? any experience ruining cats quickly? i’m willing to suck it up and pay more for a beefier cat i just don’t want to kill it so quickly again. here’s the beaut in question

So I’m installing the bilstein 2.5-3 inch lift that come with asc springs and when I removed my rear springs they were missing the rubber bumpers do I need them? Or can I run this without them if I need them could somebody recommend me some please

- 1999 4Runner SR5 Highlander
- 265/75/16 Prinx AT High Country Tires

I’m already impressed with the stock capability without making any tweaks at all, but I know there’s more to be found. All swaybars are still connected here, and all components aside from the tires are completely OEM.
Considering that the terrain pictured is what I’m up against most of the time (and I’m hoping to visit Uhwarrie, NC soon), I want to get what I can out of the stock configuration until I can afford some extensive quality suspension upgrades.
Which bars should I leave/disconnect, should I invest in beefier end links, and what tweaks can I make for more capability, etc.

Help me ball on a budget for a while, folks.

So, I bought a new steering rack, new upper & lower ball joints and both outer tie rods for $1,226.73
I got a quote from a guy at a small shop, he told me $575 to replace everything, alignment included. What kind of power steering fluid should I get to have him put in??

I’m also gonna double check the torque on all bolts once he finishes, I have extra cotter pins for the castle nuts.

And if anyone can let me know if I goofed and bought an incorrect part before I start, that would be greatly appreciated!

I had to use the bottle jack to fix a flat the other day, but it won't fully collapse now. Its just the stock jack that came with my 4runner. I figured some of yall might be able to help me figure out what the issue is and whether i can fix it or if just need to get another one.

Hey, guys. I’ve been experiencing a high idle issue along with when the engine is cold, a notable stalling/hesitation when going into drive and giving her some gas (only when engine is cold). I have no check engine lights or any warning lights. For example, tonight I started up the engine after not driving it for about 48 hours. It went from 1,500 RPM to ~500 really fast and was stalling a bit. When I tossed it in drive, it hesitated and then was fine after driving a bit. Normally, it the car will idle anywhere from 1,000 to 1,500 in park and 700 to 900 idling in drive. I recently removed and cleaned the throttle body, IAC valve, and MAF all with the correct cleaner from CRC. That seemed to fix my issue a bit (slightly lower idle now) but now the stalling issue seems to be a bit more notable and I want to take care of this annoying issue. From my research with Perplexity Ai and Google, it seems to still be an IAC issue and I should replace it. But, It could also be a vaccum leak. Should I go ahead and grab a new OEM IAC and gasket or should I do some further testing to confirm the issue lies there? From the research I’ve done, I’m pretty sure it’s the IAC. Pic of my 1999 SR5 for attention. TIA :)

As many of you know, I picked up my truck from an engine builder in California about a week and a half ago.

Immediately after picking it up, I noticed the backup lights did not work at all when putting the 5-speed manual transmission into reverse. I checked the reverse switch on the transmission and the connector area looks a little hacked together. It appears the OEM connector may have broken at some point and someone used cheap plug connectors instead. The wires are still connected to the switch though.

Then yesterday, roughly 14 days and 4,500 miles after picking the truck up, I went out to the truck in the morning and noticed several more electrical issues:

- Gauge cluster illumination does not work

- Corner/parking lights do not turn on

- Halos on my SRQ headlights do not turn on

- Headlight projectors still work when switched fully on

- Brake lights only illuminate when pressing the brake pedal

- Turn signals still work

- No warning chime when opening the door with the headlights left on

I replaced every fuse in the knee panel and also replaced the tail relay under the hood, but neither fixed the issue.

What else should I be checking?