Headlights and taillights remain on indefinitely after shutting off engine and locking doors. Getting the error message as shown. Doing this after a storm this evening. What’s the solution folks? Anybody had this issue? Thanks in advance.
Replaced the Thomas Edison turn signal bulbs with LEDs. No hyper flash.
2019 RDX intermittent noise. Is this from the ac blower? Or something with the infotainment?
Im changing the value cover gaskets on an 2013 Acura Rdx with the 3.5 v6 J35 engine and their is some oil on the walls going into the intake. Is this normal?
What type to use and where do you place your phone holder in this vehicle? Don’t want to block vents or have it in the middle of passenger dashboard.
Pretty sure I am going to answer my own question but wanted to get opinions for those that have wireless charging feature:
I have a ‘26 Advance and wanted to ask do any of you keep a wire charger in your RDX even though you have wireless charger you can use? Which do you use more of?
Not sure if this will help anyone but found some diagrams and apparently you can adjust the fog lights and the main headlights (but I think maybe only for one of the projectors)
Been holding off doing this job for a while but finally got it addressed, my ac has been running pretty weak ever since I got it the service summary pretty much says what they did if you wanna read that. It's a 21 rdx btw. Hood placard says from .505kg to max being 0.555kg. the service summary says they filled it up to .75kgs. is this bad? Or is it normal for them to put that much in. Any master techs wanna chime in or ac techs.
I own a 2014 Acura RDX (AWD w/ Tech Package) with 95K miles that has been reliable; I maintained it well.
At 100K miles, I am looking at a fairly expensive maintenance package that approaches 25-30% of this car's current value. It includes:
I got a quote for about $3,500 that I think can be knocked down to about $3K. Carfax says car's private party value is about $11,500 right now.
Am I better off selling the car vs. keeping it? Appreciate your fine folks' thoughts re price reasonableness of the proposed services and value of keeping a 13 year old, well-maintained Acura.
After much debate on whether or not to go with age or mileage I went ahead and went by age since it has been 9 years since I took delivery. I went ahead and purchased all oem parts which includes the t belt,water pump,t belt tensioner,tensioner pulley , idler pulley and accessory belt. The water pump is made by Yamada just in case anyone wants to know.After removing all old parts these are what we found out. The accessory belt was cracked in some places, the timing belt showed wear specifically the thickness of the belt itself compared to the new belt and wished I had a caliper to see the difference but visually it shows. lastly, the old timing belt tensioner was the worst of the bunch such as the the seal was leaking and the pusher was showing wear already . The tensioner pulley and idler pulley look good with no unusual noise when turning but decided to replace them anyway.. This was my experience and glad I did the service . As far as cost I had a friend that works at a Acura dealer help me with the job so I could not shed light on cost of parts and labor. Here are photos of old worn parts.. Here sharing my own experience and for some, your experience will vary.
Its a pre owned car, and the transmission drain and fill was done at 89k. The car is at 140k now, while it runs well without any shifting issues, I am just considering to drain and refill the transmission fluid for pre caution.
The mechanic refused to do the transmission fluid at 140k, saying that it may cause shifting issues. Should I just leave it as or is it recommended to change the fluid after almost 50k?
I need some advice and I will try not leave out any details. I’m currently leasing a 2023 Honda Accord Sport-L which will end in two weeks. I have been scrambling on what I should do. I have been looking into an Acura RDX and yesterday I was quoted 615/mo 10k miles a year after negotiating. I initially looked at an A-spec model and was quoted 776/mo, which I felt was ridiculous lol. Then I saw the base model which I also liked even though it’s missing the bells and whistles. I’m located in CT and the dealer I went to is in NY. I was told to put $1000 down, pay the CT taxes and fees and also first month’s payment. So basically over $2000 out-of-pocket and they’re willing to buy my car from me. This included a $1000 loyalty rebate offer.
Personally, I feel like I’m getting swindled and felt that was too much for a base model. My friend who was with me thinks it’s a good deal and I should take the car lol. I told the salesman I will still shop around and will be visiting another dealer in CT today and he expressed that I won’t find a better deal and he can hold the car for 48 hours.
For the Honda lease, my monthly payment is in the 400s for 12k miles a year and when I inquired about buying out at Honda, I was quoted 550/mo 72 mo. Also, they quoted me $610 for a 23’ RDX A-spec that they had but I walked. But still sparked my interest after I took it for a test drive.
My car was under 10k miles from 36k which is why I am now doing 10k miles a year (I don’t drive much).
Lastly, in CT they charge your car/property tax to your account and I only paid the monthly note. Huge mistake. So there is about $1900 of car taxes that is sitting in my account that I didn’t pay. Both Honda and Acura dealers are willing to take the car back at no cost to me.
Honestly, I do like my car but I don’t love it. I want to get into an SUV but not with these prices. My car was also in an accident which wasn’t my fault. This also factors into everything, including the dealer quoting my car. Multiple recalls as well. This will be my second time leasing if all this happens. So any feedback would be great or if you could share your experiences.