r/BumpSide

Image 1 — 1969 F-100 Short Bed 408W Stroker Build
Image 2 — 1969 F-100 Short Bed 408W Stroker Build
Image 3 — 1969 F-100 Short Bed 408W Stroker Build
Image 4 — 1969 F-100 Short Bed 408W Stroker Build
Image 5 — 1969 F-100 Short Bed 408W Stroker Build
Image 7 — 1969 F-100 Short Bed 408W Stroker Build
▲ 532 r/BumpSide+1 crossposts

1969 F-100 Short Bed 408W Stroker Build

Here is the project my dad and I have dedicated the past several years to. Pictures are in no particular order and only show a fraction of the work we put into this truck. This 1969 short bed bump was purchased from the original family, and lived its life as a farm truck in Mississippi where it as passed down through 3 generations before being parked under a farm shed. It started as a 240 straight-6 with a 3-speed column shift and a radio, nothing else. We refreshed the original motor with new seals and enough TLC to get it on the road. We ended up tearing it down to the block and taking it to the machine shop, but they weren’t able to salvage it. That’s where the craziness begins. Before you know it, we had the entire truck torn apart with 2 frame rails sitting in front of us. We opted for a full QA1 setup front and rear, so lots of rivets to drill out, c-notch the rear, and cut out the original engine cradle. Brakes were upgraded to Wilwood 6-pistons and sitting on American Racing VN510’s wrapped in Michelin Sport 4S’. Of course, you have to have some rumble under the hood with a little power, so why not go for a 408W stroker? We picked up the complete engine from BluePrint, and the dyno sheet showed ~485hp/525tq and you feel every bit of it throughout the power band. To handle the power, we settled on a Tremec TKX 5-speed close ratio gearbox mated to a Spec Stage 2+ clutch/pressure plate kit. In the rear, a Speedway Motors 3.73 LSD with Quick Performance axels. All wiring was replaced with a new American Autowire harness and the battery was moved behind the bench seat, plenty of space back there once we moved the gas tank to the rear. The entire floor and firewall inside of the cabin was covered with sound descending before we put down the padding and carpet. Everything underneath was sanded, rust encapsulated, and repainted with tractor paint. The exterior is the original Harbor Blue paint, no clear coat, no patina sauce, just lots of hand polishing and buffing. My dad took care of making all the brake lines, and we fabricated the exhaust ourselves using a Jegs builders kit and a few slip joints to make things easier to take apart for maintenance. I’m sure there are things I’ve missed or forgot, this has taken about 5 years working in our garage to make it happen. Link to a few videos below if you want to hear the truck and see a quick driving video. I plan to upload a longer one in the following weeks to go over the build and get some better driving angles. Hope y’all dig the build, I know we sure do!

First Start: https://youtu.be/J1FWEw7YZ4w?si=wi5IagXDeAE-FMGM

Short Cruise: https://youtu.be/HnEfqfVkeNw?si=IP0fmQAgXo2pO7Ws

u/SnooSprouts6068 — 3 days ago

Door latch assembly

Hey all, I was wondering if any of you have refreshed your original door latch assemblies. The ones in the pic aren’t mine, but while my truck is in the shop getting the metal work done, I’m ordering parts to freshen things up a bit. These parts are about $100 per side so I was thinking I could maybe give the originals a tune up. From what I remember mine aren’t broken but they aren’t exactly smooth operating. I will be ordering the inner handle that sits in the arm rest but was thinking about these. Would you think some steel wool pads to clean them up then soaking them in carb cleaner, then some lithium grease would do the trick?

u/ez641 — 3 days ago

Heck yeah! Rust free v8

A couple of dents but nothing major. And a free Tercel to scrap to pay for lunch

u/CaryWhit — 4 days ago

What is this part called?

I backed into a stump that wasn’t in the way when I drove forward over it, and now I need to replace this thing. I thought crossmember, but when I look those up it shows me a different part.

u/Tall-Poet6173 — 5 days ago
▲ 220 r/BumpSide+1 crossposts

Though this was worth sharing

This is my dad’s 68 F100, it’s a factory 4x4 with factory heavy duty upgrades on it and still has the numbers matching 360 and 4 speed manual it left the factory with. Also only has 100k according to the previous owner and the odometer(wanna say it reads 7 digits but could be wrong)

u/WyoCustomWorks — 7 days ago

East vs west

Spotted this beauty while working. It’s so rare to find a bumpside ford where I’m from in Maryland…I’ve been looking to buy a 67-72 f100/f250 4x4 for years now and the pickings are slim. Meanwhile when I look on the west coast side of facebook marketplace I see so many bumpsides for a sale at a reasonable price. Trying to buy here on the east coast is like give me 10k for the most rotted destroyed truck you’ve ever seen. Sorry for the rant. I’ll post my success one day.

u/rainisland90 — 7 days ago
▲ 5 r/BumpSide+1 crossposts

High RPM when in time 360FE

Backstory, just replaced the timing gear with a heavy duty double roller and chain along with pertronix ignition in a stock 1970s distributer. Along with this I did replace other components not related to timing so they shouldn’t affect it.

When in park and the vacuum advance disconnected and plugged I am getting ~1280RPM at 11BTDC at running temp. Plugs are gapped for standard ignition but not for pertronix (not sure if it’ll make a big difference). Im also getting ~130PSI from the cylinders and not hearing any vacuum leaks (could be wrong) and I’m reading that with standard timing I should be closer to 900-1000rpm. It has great acceleration and it’s responsive but I want to dial in for fuel economy and horsepower from the factory specs. Is this an issue and if so what can I do to fix it?

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u/Dense-Assistant624 — 5 days ago

Any suggestions to why this wire started melting when I was driving ?

u/Tychol — 10 days ago

Today’s naive question - how do I remove the cable from this temp sensor?

My temp sender seems to have failed during my thermostat housing swap (not sure how they could be related).

The local parts stores have senders that are supposed exact fits for this 460, but they all have a protruding threaded nipple.

This wire wound thing seems permanently connected.

What am I missing?

Forgive the puddle of coolant. I went to remove the sender and take it with me to the store, but it seems Aristotle had a good point about water seeking level and radiator fill heights.

u/Tall-Poet6173 — 12 days ago

Water pump pulley

Truck has factory ac and power steering. Neither water pump pulley we have fits. Where could i find one that fits?

u/iNeXcess3 — 12 days ago