Pushrod spinning really fast
So I did the timing chain and a intake swap on my 67 F100 352FE. And I noticed this pushrod spins incredibly fast. Is this normal? If not what should I do to try and correct it?
So I did the timing chain and a intake swap on my 67 F100 352FE. And I noticed this pushrod spins incredibly fast. Is this normal? If not what should I do to try and correct it?
A little over a week ago I posted on the sub about buying a 1970 F100. Everyone was extremely kind and encouraging so I would like everyone to see what I brought home yesterday!!! I am picking up on stick faster than I thought I would, and I am having a blast driving the truck.
Does anyone know of a source for ac lines for the factory AC system? Someone removed most of the lines on my 71 and I am looking to get the system working again. I have tried the usual first stops (google, lmc, Dennis carpenter, etc), but no luck so far.
Hi there! I'm trying to figure out the correct paint color for my Ford. The truck was originally a custom-order cab and chassis, and for some reason, the paint code wasn't stamped on the VIN plate.
So far, the leading candidate is Yucatan Gold (Color Code R). The problem is that every example of a Yucatan Gold Ford I've found has either been repainted a slightly different shade or is too rusted and faded to make a good comparison. There also doesn't seem to be a universally agreed-upon example of what Yucatan Gold is actually supposed to look like.
Looking through the Ford paint index sheets, the color almost looks more like Tucson Gold
(Color Code D) to me. I haven't found any good original examples of that color either.
I'm still pretty new to these trucks, so I was hoping someone with more knowledge or experience might be able to point me in the right direction or offer some insight into what the original color could be.
How badly am i screwed and does anyone have a picture of what it is suposed to look like? This is my 1968 F100, I got no dash lights and no turn signals, headlights and cab lights work, it makes a KLUNK when i try to turn it over and lights go out until I wiggle the negative terminal. If I bypass the ignition, it does turn over easy and sounds pretty beefy when it idles and does drive.
Does anyone have any tricks when replacing the turn signal switch? I replaced the original because it was crumbling and the left brake light wouldn’t work. With the new switch the right brake light wouldn’t work unless the left turn signal was on. Now with the second replacement switch I’m not getting the right brake light at all. The light will work with the switch just hanging by the wires but as soon as screw it in place it deforms and that light stops working.
Buddy of mine bought this Volvo and we’re moving it to storage till he’s ready to pull the engine. So that means I am getting to use my dually for dually things. My only complaints so far is the mirrors are too short so it can be difficult to see the trailer sometimes and my temp gauge is junk so I am pulling over at as many convenient pull offs and using an infrared thermometer to make sure it’s not running too awfully hot.
On a side note, with the empty trailer I was still getting 6 mpg. Which I am very happy about considering it’s a 390, 4 speed dually.
it’s a 1986 Toyota pickup I’m not fully sure what wrong with it’s motor or transmission do you think this would be worth it we really don’t have a garage but we have tools I’ll post the engine bay soon but there isn’t that much pine straw and the shifter does shift the engine look ok the rust isn’t bad only in a few places I am in high school so idk if it would be a good project car
I'm devastated, but it's been starting to become a headache to rely on for a 20 mile daily round trip commute to work and back. Solid Montana truck selling in Wisconsin. I don't like these kinds of posts, but with a bunch of parts I've stockpiled, what do you think it would be worth?
Resurrected her from the dead. Still working out some issues but definitely a fun truck to drive
Figured I'd post some pics of my 71'. Currently being bagged and bodied on 24x11s rear and 24x9s front. Full custom chassis, Accuair management, Intro wheels. Was a long bed, but is being cut down a total of 16". 12 in the front, 4 in the rear. So it will be a "shlong" bed when done. And if anyone is wondering what the deal is with the "C/100" cutouts on the chassis, it's because thats what we named the truck. When I bought the truck, it had already been bagged using an 87' C10 front frame section. When we built the new chassis, we decided to keep the C10 front geometry, spindles, etc. It's also getting an LS swap. I know some Purists will hate that, but I'ma big believer in the whole "build it your way" saying.
I have a 1971 F-100 2wd auto. I finally got around to changing my speedometer cable, I got one from autozone awhile back and it’s not the right type. I got under there and the connections are completely different. It’s a C6 because the trans oil pan and gasket are C6, but where the speedo cable connects is different from every cable sold for an OEM trans. I included a pic of the speedo cable that’s currently on the trans and where it screws on (circled in red), and second pic is what every site says an OEM C6 trans uses. Just confused on what cable I need now and what’s going on down there lol