r/CarAV

I just “finished” a very long installation in my CT200h. Full 3 way front system + rear fill. It sounds pretty good before tuning for the most part, but this is my first helix system, and I’m not sure how much of this I’m doing right.

Inputs (tapped from factory amp outputs):
A: Front Left
B: Front Right
C: Mid Left
D: Mid Right
E: Woofer
F: Not connected

Available inputs (from the two factory amp connectors):
Pin 3 = FL+
Pin 8 = FL−
Pin 10 = FR+
Pin 9 = FR−
Pin 4 = RL+
Pin 11 = RL−
Pin 5 = RR+
Pin 12 = RR−

Pin 1 = WF1+
Pin 2 = WF2+
Pin 3 = ML+
Pin 9 = ML−
Pin 4 = MR+
Pin 10 = MR−
Pin 8 = Center+
Pin 7 = Center−

Problem number 1: I know this isn’t tuned (and I’m not really sure what I’m listening for since this my first big audio project), but it sounds a little “off”. I’m assuming the input signal is too weak, because that’s what it’s warning me to, but I tried my head unit at 50/62 for that and it may be clipping (i don’t have a scope). Any louder and I’m worried I’ll clip dsp input.

Problem number 2: because the input is so weak, my amps have to be turned almost all the way up to max on gain and still don’t clip. All speakers handle it pretty well, but I’m once again worried about damage even though there’s no clipping to my knowledge.

System is as follows:
Peerless NE19VTS-04 tweeters
FaitalPro 3FE22 midranges
Dayton RS180P-4 woofers
2x CA30 Fosi audio amplifiers

Thank you for your support redditors 🫡

I own a 2019 Suzuki Dzire (India) and I'm planning to replace the stock infotainment system with an Android head unit.

The local shop showed me these options:

Worldtech WT-A44 – 4GB RAM / 64GB Storage

Hi-Tech "OnePlus+1" TS7 – 4GB RAM / 64GB Storage

myTVS AP-92 – 2GB RAM / 64GB Storage

Abbtron's Blockbuster – 2GB RAM / 32GB Storage

Orion A100

I've attached photos of all of them.

My priorities are:

Smooth Google Maps navigation

Android Auto (wired or wireless)

Spotify/YouTube Music

Reverse camera support

Steering wheel control

Good boot time

Reliability over the next 3–5 years

I don't care much about watching YouTube or movies in the car.

Are any of these actually good, or are they all just rebranded generic Android units? If you've owned one of them, how has it held up over time?

Also, what processor should I look for (TS7, TS10, UIS7862, etc.) if I'm buying in this price range?

Thanks

I bought these kicker KS for my Volvo 1995 850 turbo. They sounded great. Really smooth vocals and pretty decent bass response for the size. I’m using the factory SC816 radio with one of those FM radio cigarette adapters. Volume doesn’t affect it sounding like crap

Last night I switch over from my podcast to music and noticed my right doors speaker sounded like crap all the sudden. I swapped it with my left speaker but the sound follows the speaker. The left speaker at the same volume in the video sounds perfect on the same channel. No other modifications have been made to the system other than these speakers.

Did I just get a defective speaker you think or? Even with the bass slider all the way up, the factory head unit doesn’t seem to push them too terribly hard? The speaker seemed to briefly start working again while I was on lunch in a hot car.

Should I just buy replacement KS if I really like them? Is there anything I should keep in mind and or don’t know? Thank you

I have 1 12" power acoustic gothic subwoofer being powered by 500w rms right now. Custom built box. Sounds really good but have my Jeep Cherokee front doors off and the dbs were topping out at 112 on the meter. I know I can throw more power at the sub, but just wondering if the 112 would increase when the doors go back on and if 112 with the doors off is decent??

Update to my post here https://www.reddit.com/r/CarAV/s/LhM5B0tt6g

I wanted a secure way to store my sub wiring while I store the sub away. I ended up using WAGO connectors instead of just electrical tape around each cable.

The wiring I tuck underneath and around the spare tire area.

Remove amp fuse from the power line and leave off.

Remove sub and clip on a wago for each end.

The cable fits snug and won't just "wiggle out". Not pictured are the other two "ports" on each Wagon wrapped in tape.

I already reconnected my sub back, I connect the fuse until the very end.

Thanks everyone for the suggestion. If there's a way to improve this, LMK👌

Alright peeps the Utopia 8WM’s are in.

Still waiting on some more treatment but will do that later when it ships out.

Treated the door cards around 3am last night didn’t remove old harmony CLD from door cards (you couldn’t pay me to do that).

Nvx silicone baffles (to protect from water, old SI magnet and vents had rust all up in the guts).

Everything leading up to installation (all the treatment and prep) was fun but actual install (especially the door cards) was not fun.

Overall with no tune and random 65-400hz crossover it is punchy as hell, and a good bit louder than the tm65s.
Currently for the price I paid I think they were worth it, but paying retail 2800$ definitely not.

Got a new laptop coming in tomorrow for tuning and 3d scanning for the accord amp rack (stay tune…)

A while back i came on here to ask if a head unit was good or not for my truck, i only got one response that said the company that made the head unit was garbage

Now I've decided to just ask for headunit recommendations,

I have a 2007 Silverado two door, my budget is probably up to $700, i want a screen somewhere between 10-12 inches, preferably with a good os where i could use it with or without my phone

I currently have a cheap headunit from china that kinda sucks, and i want to upgrade

I have a Memphis power reference 15 DVC 4 ohm. It’s been wired up in the box since I got the setup. I didn’t look into or anything until today. I was wondering how it was wired in the box to change the impedance possibly. Previous owner had it wired at 4 straight off each coil into the hookups on the box. I tested one coil and it read 4.3. So I ran wires from one coil to the other to wire in parallel and I checked again. Still 4. So I checked the other coil and it’s not reading

My first question, can I continue running this until I get a new sub? I’ve had it playing for almost a month now. No clipping or anything I made sure I tuned the amp right.

Second question, if this is a 4 ohm sub but one VC is dead wouldn’t that drop it down to 2 to begin with? I checked off the box terminal when I first got the sub and it was reading 4 just like today when I checked before I pulled the sub out

Hello. This is driving me crazy lately, it gets worse but it stops when I put my hand on top of it. What would you do?

Just finished installing a new Pioneer single din and Alpine S2-S65C in my NA Mazda MX5.

Making some 3d printed tweeter mounts for the A pillars and wondering where to aim them?

I was going to do passenger to driver and driver to passenger but I've seen a lot of conflicting information.

Got a 04 Silverado, amp was working fine for a while, then recently it started cutting in and out, sometimes it would be fine for a while then start out of nowhere or when i hit a bump and it only happens whenever i have the volume near max or maxed out, New Rcas, ground is good, took it to get diagnosed and it might be the head unit but need second opinions. Anything helps 🙏

I’m not sure if this sound is normal lol for a subwoofer it might be because I put a cage around it and it’s quite close to the cage and maybe it’s hitting it??? But I have an edge active sub dual 12inch dsp in the back of my van and maybe it’s just rattling the panels making that sound not sure 🤔.

Images of the cage is at the end of the vid.

EDIT: I have noticed that they don’t move very far out when in full blast and so I don’t think it’s hitting the cage not sure 🤷‍♂️

Hi guys, has anyone had or heard of these subs from Infinity? I've been doing quite a lot of research but could only find 1 single review on Crutchfield on these subs. They look good and sounds like they match what I'm looking for (base on 1 review), which is SQ subs for my tacoma (dual 10s). I've run into a few other options for entry level SQ subs like JL W1 and Dayton Audio HO-4 but I'm not sure which is best. I can only judge base on specs and the JL/Infinity seems "perfect". The Dayton sounds good but I'm running a 5ch amp with only 700W/1ohm or 500W/2ohm and I'm underpowered if I go with Dayton. Any thoughts? Thanks guys!