r/CarAV

Hello All, So Recently, my neighbor has offered me this Audio Ace Amplifier, he said he Believes this is a 1600w Prototype Amplifier, as his friends shop was right next to Audio Aces near the time of Aquirement, it has been ran on a 1st gen Orion HCCA the entire time he had it, then it sat for the last year until I aquired it for roughly $35, it does work!

Does anyone know what this is? Any help would be Appreciated!

It Has 1/0 Gauge Power And Ground and 10 Gauge Speaker Outs.

2 CT sounds BIO 12’s D4 for 1 ohm load

1 RECOIL RED1200.1

5 PSUs for a total of 12,3V 100A

Hi, this is my first car audio build, and I wanted to know if the ticking sound audible in the video is normal for an SPL subwoofer that still needs breaking in, or if it’s an abnormal noise. Thanks in advance to anyone who replies.

I have a 2014 Subaru Legacy Limited and i’ve not been able to figure out how to add aftermarket CarPlay to it and wanna know if it’s even possible. i’ll attach a photo of my radio as well

Sorry guys I don’t know where to ask for my problem but if anyone know please help me

Dear Reddit Community,
I have been trying to troubleshoot it, but I have not been able to find the correct firmware or recovery procedure for this exact unit.
The head unit is installed in my 2013 Chevrolet Tahoe. It is an RM (RoadMaster) AN-1001 GMC Android head unit.
These are the details shown in Settings → About tablet:

Model: AN-1001 GMC
Android version: 4.4.4
Kernel: 3.0.36+
Build: rk3066-eng4.4.4 19092015...
CPU/platform: Rockchip RK3066
MCU version: MTCB-YZ-V2.80
S/N: 000D18A12539

The main problem is that the head unit constantly shows Google-related errors, including:
“Unfortunately, Google Play services has stopped”
“Unfortunately, Google has stopped”
“Unfortunately, Gmail has stopped”

Other Google applications also frequently crash
I tried to troubleshoot this through Settings → Apps, but I cannot uninstall or disable Google Play Services because it appears to be a system application.
I also have another serious problem: Factory Data Reset does not work. The reset option is not greyed out. I can press it normally, but absolutely nothing happens. It does not open the confirmation screen, reboot, or perform a reset.
I then discovered another error message on the unit:
“System UIDs Inconsistent”
It says:
“UIDs on the system are inconsistent, you need to wipe your data partition or your device will be unstable.”

This makes me suspect that the /data partition may be corrupted or that the Android installation has some kind of UID/permissions problem.
I am also wondering whether the unit may be rooted or running modified firmware. I have not intentionally rooted or modified it myself, as I purchased the vehicle with the head unit already installed.
I would like to know:
What is the correct recovery-mode key combination for this exact AN-1001 GMC / MTCB-YZ unit?
Is there an original recovery image available?
Is there an original or known-compatible firmware/update.img for this exact unit?
Is MTCB-YZ-V2.80 the correct MCU for this model?
Can I safely perform a wipe data/factory reset from recovery to fix the UID problem?
Is there a way to determine whether the unit is rooted?
If the firmware needs to be reinstalled, which exact firmware should I use? I do not want to flash an incompatible MTCB firmware and risk bricking the head unit or losing MCU/CANBUS functionality.
I have attached photos showing the head unit and the About Tablet information, including the AN-1001 GMC, RK3066, Android 4.4.4, and MTCB-YZ-V2.80 details, as well as the System UIDs Inconsistent error.
I would really appreciate any guidance you can provide, especially if you know the correct recovery procedure or have firmware/recovery files for this particular model.
Thank you very much for your help.

I know we have some 3D print enthusiasts here so thought it the best place to ask..

I broke a few taking panels off an old 2004 car, so i'm thinking it wouldn't be too difficult to 3D print some viable replacements.

(I broke less after I realised winter = cold/brittle plastic, and running the heater for 15 minutes was enough to soften everything so clips come out easier)

I know they are super cheap to just buy a big pack of OEM replacement clips, but I had the idea of extending them 5mm to 10mm in length (where panel orientation allows for it) to better allow for accoustic treatments that would other make it a real pain and struggle to get the original clips back in.

I had a look around and there are definitely models for direct replacements, but no company (and as far as I could find no hobbyists) have designed or sell 'extended' clips to allow extra tolerance for treated panels.

A) I'm mainly just gauging how 3D printed clips have worked for others? what materials did you use or think would work best?

B) If this 'extended' clip has any pitfalls or reasons it won't work that I haven't thought of?

Been working on the audio in our 2023 Pacifica with base 6 speaker system (non premium) for a while and wanted to share where things are at. Main goal is better sound and fully concealable since I’m still in warranty. Amp rack is located in spare tire well and will be completely covered up with a panel.

Had to keep the factory radio obviously. Using the PAC LPHCH42 harness connected to the 2 runs of blue 9 wire. Still on the stock speakers for now while I figure out replacements. Looking at the Kicker KSS269 3-way sets but haven’t decided yet. Sub is a Kicker TRTP 12. Helix DSP Mini MK2 and a Pioneer GM DX975 5-channel amp are going on a removable rack. Already bypassed the ANC at the back of the radio with a bypass I found online.

I ran all the cables long on purpose so I can trim them to a clean length later once everything is set.
For disconnects, the sub already has a Speakon on it just for fun. Planning the same idea for the speaker wires to/from the head unit (8-pole Speakons). I will mount 2 more chassis mount connect for the high level inputs to the helix and amp outputs to the speakers onto the amp rack as well. The speaker wire speakons can be bridged with a coupler to be back to stock instantly. Also have an NVX XQDC4 coming for a power and ground quick disconnect so the entire rack is fully removable.

Everything is wired and playing through the stock speakers right now. Sounds better than stock already but nothing is properly tuned yet and speakers are still TBD.

The voltage difference is tripping me up a little. I have full range on the fronts but the backup park assist chimes go through the rears. At max unclipped volume (volume 30 of 38 with a 40 Hz 0 dB test tone) I’m getting:
Front doors: 6.4 V
Rear doors: 9.5 V
The rears are “amplified” from the factory. Not sure if it’s an actual amp or just the ANC module or head unit doing it. ANC is already bypassed but the difference is still there. Thinking about putting resistors on the rear channels before they hit the Helix so the input voltages match the fronts for better overall volume and cleaner gains, but I’m not sure if that’s the right move. I currently have the Helix input voltage set to 6.6vrms which is why I have omitted the rear channels for now.

Questions:

1. How are you handling a 6.4 V front vs 9.5 V rear difference on a Helix? Resistors on the rear inputs, different sensitivity settings, or something else?
2. What’s your actual process for Helix Auto EQ with the Mini MK2 and PC-Tool? Mic placement, how many positions, what you hit first, and what you always change after it runs?
3. What measurement mic are you using with Helix? Looking for something solid without going crazy expensive.
4. Anyone tried the Kicker KSS269 3-ways? Worth it or should I keep looking?

Open to any other thoughts on the system!
Thanks.

I changed out the Soundstream Refrence 500s 2 channel that was running the AMT-80’s, for a MC300 4 channel to add my midranges (Purifi 5.25M). The amp was rebuilt recently and has been sounding fantastic, and a lot of old guys were super thrilled to see this old school piece

This post was translated with AI — I'm from Germany and wanted to make sure it reads naturally in English.

Hey all,

Picking up a 2022 VW Touareg with the standard (non-Dynaudio) sound system, and I want to slowly upgrade the audio without losing my current setup — Apple CarPlay through the factory head unit is a must, I don't want to run any external sources.

From reading around here, it sounds like the standard system in the Touareg isn't actually bad, and a good DSP alone might get me most of the way there before I even touch the speakers. So that's where I want to start.

• What are your goals for your car audio system - as loud as possible (SPL)? Sound quality (SQ)? Some combination of both? Describe to us how you want your system to sound.

Sound quality (SQ) focused. I want a clean, refined, high-quality sound - not a bass-head/loud build. That said, I do want solid, deep low end, not a shy sub. Think "gediegen" but with real bass extension, not boomy or in-your-face.

• What vehicle? - year, make, model, type (coupe, sedan, SUV, truck, etc.)

2022 VW Touareg (MLB Evo platform), SUV.

• What is your maximum budget?

Still flexible/TBD - planning to start with just a DSP first and expand from there depending on results.

• Will you be installing the gear or are you going to a shop? If a shop is doing the work, does your budget include the cost of labor?

Planning to go to a shop for the install and DSP tuning, especially since this is an active/summed setup off the factory head unit.

• What gear is in your existing system? (Is it stock? List any aftermarket gear.)

Fully stock - standard (non-Dynaudio/non-premium) factory sound system, factory head unit with Apple CarPlay. No aftermarket gear yet.

• What is your country of purchase? Leave any finishing thoughts here.

Germany. Want to keep the factory head unit and CarPlay exactly as-is - no external sources, just improving what goes to the speakers. Starting with a DSP off the factory output before deciding whether to also upgrade the speakers (considering Focal) and add a sub in the spare tire well.

Plan A: DSP off the factory radio output
Idea is to tap the output of the stock head unit straight into a DSP, then run that into the existing speaker wiring/harness — no new speakers yet, just proper time alignment and EQ. Does this actually work well on the standard (non-premium) system, or is the factory output too limited for a DSP to make a real difference?

DSP brand — need input
I initially looked at Match UP DSP, but after digging through a few threads people seem lukewarm on it — similar comments about Helix, with Audison getting recommended more. Anyone running Audison in a Touareg or similar VAG platform? Worth the price jump over Match/Helix, or is that more forum-hype than reality?

Subwoofer in the spare tire well
Loads of unused space in the Touareg, so the spare-tire well seems like the obvious spot for a sub without eating into cargo room. Anyone done this specifically? Looking for either:

• a known DIY approach (which enclosure/sub fits the well dimensions), or
• an existing plug-and-play solution for this exact spot

Plan B (if I go further): Focal front speakers
If the stock speakers end up being the bottleneck even with a good DSP, I'm considering a Focal upgrade — either the Focal Impulse 4.320 DSP + speaker kit, or building it out manually with Focal K2 Power components (tweeter/mid/woofer separately). Also toying with 3D printing custom tweeter pods for the A-pillars to get proper off-axis imaging instead of stock locations.

• Anyone compared Impulse 4.320 vs. building a K2 Power setup? Is the all-in-one kit worth it for convenience, or does going component-by-component with K2 give noticeably better results?
• For sound signature: I'm not after a bass-head/loud system — I want a clean, high-quality sound but with solid, deep low end. Does that point more toward K2 or would Impulse already cover that?

Appreciate any real-world experience, especially from other Touareg/Q7/Cayenne (MLB Evo) owners since the platform and factory wiring should be similar. Thanks!

​

Hi everyone! I'm here to show off my first sound system.

The car is a Volkswagen Polo 9N. For the front doors, I

have a Focal ASE 165 2-way component set, and in the

rear doors, MTX Audio TX265C coaxial speakers, all four

are powered by an Alpine V-Power MRP-F240 amplifier

(4x 40W RMS @ 4 ohms). For the subwoofer, I'm using an

MTX Audio RT12-04 (250W RMS, 4-ohm SVC) powered by

a Pioneer GM-D8701 amplifier set to 250W RMS @ 4

ohms. The subwoofer sits in a custom enclosure I

designed and built myself. The box has a net internal

volume of 65L tuned to 33Hz and its made of 18mm

marine-grade plywood (though the carpet started peeling

off after 3 years🥲). As for the head unit, I have a Pioneer

DMH-A220BT, along with a Vibe Audio bass knob and a

voltmeter flush-mounted in the dashboard. The electrical

system is stock, featuring a 120A alternator, a 70Ah

lead-acid battery, and 10mm² CCA cables from MTX

(though I'll be upgrading to 50mm² OFC cables and a

50mm² OFC "Big 3" upgrade very soon). The total output

is around 400W RMS, and I estimate it's close to 120dB

(though I've never actually measured it).