The bubbling isn’t new but the clicking sound started yesterday while I was driving. I’ve checked coolant levels and that’s fine. She drives like normal. So if anyone has any suggestions as to what this sound is, all help is appreciated!!
Not very knowledgeable about cars in general. Would this be enough to buy a new battery? My car has been giving me Mass Airflow Sensor error codes and I’ve cleaned the MAF sensor and still has the same issue. Could this be the problem? 2019 Nissan Altima SR
ok so my car is making horrible knocking noises and shakes violently when i turn it off. i’ve had exhaust issues in the past as well
the engine light has been on for a few days already, but these popped up today after i put it in park. should i stop driving it? what’s all this mean?
Car was on limp mode took it to honda and they said it was the ABS module. Sent the module in to get replaced and put it back in the car. Codes are clear now and they didn’t pop back up. Now the car will start and run and it shuts off instantly. A mechanic told me it was the MAF sensor. So i unplugged the MAF sensor and the car was running. Took it around the block and it was running smoothly. Then the next day try to start it and run it. Replaced the sensor and now it’s hit or miss with running and sometime it’s starts and run and i’m able to drive it but sometimes it instantly shuts off and when i it runs to test if it’s still on limp mode it’s starts throwing up dash lights at 4.5-5k rpm. Not sure what to do to fix it cause it’s still having issues.
I know there are some solutions to the wind whistling noise problem, but I wanted to share what worked for me.
I had some sound damping foam leftovers from my car’s loudspeaker upgrade, and I got curious if stuffing the space between the plastic on the left and the loose rubber on the right could help with the loud wind whistling noise on my car. I stuffed the upper part more than the middle or lower part, and not too deep. I bet that if I did a better job it could be even better, but to be honest, I am really happy with the result and wanted to share it with you.
Driving at 80km/h there is no whistling noise, and at 130km/h the whistling noise is there, but it is really quiet.
I hope that this information can be of use to someone.
Seems to be some form of fluid leaking under the car on passenger side under the car
(2014-2016 model) my father is on a trip and told me to start it up everyday, I came to start it on the second day and this happened.
guys pls help there’s a random piece sticking out of my car my hypothesis is that something sharp stuck into the bottom and caused a piece from the bottom to the car to break off??
is it safe to drive?? i js need to drive home b4 i take it to the car shop so if u know pls lmk.
I think it might be cooked but i have some hope maybe. Theres paper stuck in the first outlet and a penny stuck in the center console one 😔 is there any hope/tips to get it out?
This is my first car haven’t driven it because registration + a few small maintenance repairs, but im worried i wont be able to charge my phone in the car 💔. Everything else is good given its age and the previous owner took care of it and even installed a CarPlay screen, but im young and need to be able to charge my devices.
Up to this point I haven’t had any troubles with my 2023 Chevy Malibu outside of the standard maintenance stuff and an incident a few years ago where it stalled in a Costco parking lot and was promptly fixed for free by a worker. But today, something major happened and I don’t know what. It started with my air conditioning turning off for one second before turning back on whenever I had my foot on the brake pedal, which was unfortunately was a lot because I was stuck in traffic for about 30 minutes in the afternoon. I found it weird, but my car’s had some quirks like that ever since I bought it so I assumed the car just did it. But then an hour ago, it completely shit itself. Sputtering as I turned it on, check engine light on, my console turning off and on, my lights dimming for a second, and just now as I got home, I turned off my car and turned it back on and now it’s royally screwed. It’s refusing to move at all, yet at the same time it’s also refusing to turn off whenever I push the button. The coolant temperature reads 190 degrees, so I’m thinking it’s just an issue with overheating, but I’m terrified it may be something else. Unfortunately though, it’s 10 at night and it’s too late to take it anywhere. Please help!
EDIT: My battery light is also on now and the battery voltage is only 9.9, but I feel like all of this is still abnormal and I don’t know if the check engine light would be on from just the battery
EDIT 2: Now the battery’s back to normal and the car runs like it should? I have no clue wtf is wrong with it. I’m going to take it into AutoZone tomorrow morning to see if there’s anything I need to worry about and I’m gonna leave this post up a little longer just in case someone can still help out.
I went too fast over a speed bump and immediately after i heard a lot of clunking noises and this came off the underside of the car. It seems to be a thick metal pipe with a rubber filling inside. It's very dense and heavy. The car seems to be running fine after it came off, but is this something i should be concerned about?
I drive a 2003 Lancer oz rally if that helps.
TLDR: Car went in for a cambelt change, EML came on, they redid the timing and say it’s now correct. Now the engine cranks but won’t fire up. Garage suspects my Ghost immobiliser. I’ve put the Ghost into service mode (which takes it out of the equation entirely) and it still won’t start, so I don’t think it’s the Ghost. Looking for ideas on what the timing job might have knocked.
See video of me trying to start it up
https://streamable.com/ik7feq
Full story:
My Fiesta ST Mk7.5 has been at the garage for a few weeks getting the cambelt changed. After they changed it, I drove off and the EML came on not long after. They realised the timing was slightly out, redid it, and now they’re confident the timing is correct.
The problem now is the car won’t start. Best way I can describe it is that it’s cranking but not firing to life. Starter turns the engine over fine, but it never catches and runs.
The car has a Ghost immobiliser fitted. The garage have the code and it all worked perfectly before I dropped it off. For context on how the Ghost normally behaves: I press the ignition button, enter my PIN, then put the clutch down and press start and it fires up. If the PIN is wrong or not entered at all, the moment I press the clutch the whole thing cuts out. Total power loss, instant kill, I don’t even hear the starter turn. It acts like a hard kill switch.
The garage can’t work out why it won’t start and they’re suspecting the Ghost. Here’s why I don’t buy that:
Right now the car IS cranking. That doesn’t match how the Ghost immobilises. When it blocks the car it kills all power instantly and you never even reach the starter. Cranking with no fire is a fuel, spark, or sensor symptom, not the behaviour of a kill switch.
On top of that, I put the Ghost into service mode, which should remove it from the equation completely, and the car still behaves exactly the same. Cranks, no fire. To me that rules the Ghost out entirely.
So my thinking is this points back at the cambelt and timing work. Something like a cam or crank sensor left unplugged or damaged, timing that’s close but not quite right, or a fuelling issue. I’m going down to see it myself and I’ll try to grab a video of it cranking.
Has anyone had a cambelt or timing job leave a car in a crank-no-start state like this? What would you check first? Cam/crank sensor, timing marks, fuel pump prime? Any advice appreciated before I go back at them.
I’ve linked a video of me trying to start it at the top of this post.
I've been driving it fine recently and only had an emissions issue I've been trying to fix. Last night, I tried to start it and a bunch of dashboard warnings and lights came on and while it wouldn't start the engine, I had trouble turning the car itself off (dashboard,AC,interior,etc). After some time of trying to hold down the start/stop button it did all turn off and I did it once more for video but I'm afraid to do it again. I've never seen this before, does anyone know what to do about it?
I replaced the valve cover gasket last night and drained the coolant. I thought I made sure to hook everything back up, but it looks like there's a nipple with no hose on it. I can't find the hose anywhere near it and I'm wondering where to look. Or if there's even supposed to be one there because I don't remember taking that hose off. Any tips or help is appreciated!
I need to take my car to the shop but before I do I want to know the name to this part on my car. My muffler is currently falling off. I had replaced it in 2021 and things were fine after, now the piece that holds it up to the frame has corroded. I know my car is a rust bucket and is missing the resonator currently. I am slowly trying to get that together but for now my muffler falling off is my biggest priority.
Adding the pic of under my car to show what I am talking about. I just really do not want to sound like an idiot and be scammed as well when I call. Thanks!!
it's only audible when the car is on but engine off. the car drives and idles fine, could be a little smoother but I blamed that on the tune. is this just a symptom of a dirty throttle body?
Changed the spark plugs, coils, and connectors. The 3rd and 4th coils spark but the first 2 don’t.
Need help understanding this please!!
Beginning of June my car popped up a Shift System Fault message and it would not shift into drive - so I had it towed to the nearest ford dealership.
The inspection stated it needed a transmission range control module (tr module) replaced amongst other things, I called and spoke with a service provider and they told me the module was the only thing pertaining to my car breaking down & is the only thing I approved to be fixed. Unbeknownst to me, the part listed on the inspection is actually a shifter assembly which seems to be a completely different part.
Fast forward to August 11th and I get the same error message and have my car towed back to the dealership. On the 14th they inform me they could not find the issue but they unplugged everything and plugged it back in and it seems to be working fine.
They said the estimated total is if it happens again I would need my transmission control range module replaced. I asked why I’d have to pay for it considering I just had it replaced and was told what I had replaced was my shift selector assembly. I read off my receipt details that specifically stated I had my tr module replaced.
The service provider told me the part listed was the shifter assembly and it was just documented wrong every where else. They said they’re going to keep my car over the weekend to make sure it does not act up again and I could not see a manager until Monday when they return. I was told the two break downs were not connected and in no way their fault and I would be financially responsible for any further issues.
I showed the service provider my paper receipt where it is documented that I was quoted for a tr module and had it replaced and programmed. The service provider tried to keep this paper from me and I told him no. I also showed him the screenshot where it states I need a tr module & I approved the tr module replacement - which he asked I email to him.
What the fuck is going on?
TLDR; Ford dealership told me and documented that they replaced my transmission control module two months ago - now my car broke down again and they’re saying it was never replaced but they replaced my shifter assembly (which is the part listed) and accidentally just called it the wrong thing in documentation.
The steering wheel side read 12 volts, while the horn side had 0, am I boned