Still on it, still hate the estimating workaround, keep telling myself I'll switch when things slow down. Things haven't slowed down. Curious what the actual tipping point was for people who made the move: was it a specific pain, a specific tool you found, or just eventually hitting a wall with the workarounds?
In the process of trying to replace a busted upper sash. We have no idea what brand it is. There is no identifying marks on the window, in the sills or casing. It’s a tilt out bottom sash but the upper sash doesn’t tilt out. The notch piece on the second picture pushes a seemingly spring loaded weather stripping on the interior of the window. No idea how to remove this sash and desperately looking for any information on it.
Lately, I have noticed something when I give price quotes for repair and remodeling work. People want good quality work, fast service, and professional results, but they still want the price to be very low.
Recently, I gave a price for a job. It included removing old equipment, throwing it away, changing some plumbing, and installing new equipment. Instead of talking about the work, the customer only said the price was “too high.”
Many people do not understand that the price is not only for the time spent working. It also includes years of experience, tools, materials, travel costs, insurance, and the responsibility of doing the job safely and correctly.
Skilled workers are not only charging for their time. They are also charging for their skill, experience, and the risk they take.
I want to know how other workers deal with customers who only think about price and not the value of the work.
Anyone else dealing with clients who think verbal requests automatically become part of the contract?
The project is on schedule, and everything is being built according to plan, but the client keeps adding extra tasks while avoiding signed change orders and updated pricing.
What’s frustrating is when they start directing crews and assigning responsibilities that were never included in the original scope of work.
A contract exists for a reason.
If changes are needed, they should be documented, approved, and priced properly — not casually added during production.
Why are people like this!?
By John Shearer
Many professional painters trained in traditional oil enamel work still make their own “cut pots” or “enameling pots” from paint cans. In the old days, especially before waterborne trim paints took over, this was standard practice on high-end trim and door work.
What we’re cutting off is the rolled rim at the top of the can — commonly called the bead, chime, or lip. That rolled section is designed to hold the lid on and seal the paint during shipping and storage. The problem is that once you start brushing out of the can, especially with slow-flowing oil enamels, that groove becomes a trap for paint buildup, contamination, and drips.
By cutting the rim off, you eliminate: • dried paint chunks falling back into the coating • paint collecting in the groove • drips running down the side of the can • brush drag against the rim
For fine finish work, especially with long-open-time coatings like Hollandlac Satin or Brilliant, that matters.
One thing many painters may notice in these photos is that this is not a standard U.S. gallon can. It’s the Fine Paints of Europe 2.5-liter can, which is shorter and wider than a traditional American gallon. A lot of enamel painters prefer this format because it’s more stable in the hand and easier to palm while brushing for long periods of time.
From a practical standpoint, I still believe a converted paint can is superior to most store-bought cut buckets or flimsy plastic pails.
Why?
Because the original paint can was engineered to safely store high-end coatings for years. The inside plating resists corrosion; the steel is heavier; and the construction is far more durable than most disposable “ready buckets” sold today. In contrast, many cheap metal buckets begin rusting at the seams almost immediately after exposure to water or solvent.
There’s also an ergonomic advantage.
A proper enameling pot can be pinched between the thumb and palm while the fingers stabilize the body of the can. That may sound minor until you spend 8–10 hours brushing trim, doors, or cabinetry. Comfort and balance matter when your livelihood depends on brush control.
Best practice is to only fill the pot partially — roughly 1/5 full. That keeps the paint fresher, minimizes skinning over, and reduces contamination during long brushing sessions.
When I started painting in 1990 Shearer Painting - Seattle Wa. , virtually every interior trim package was oil enamel. Painters would brag about how long they had kept the same enameling pot in service. Some were name-tagged and maintained for months or years.
Today, most younger painters have never seen this. They’re used to buying disposable buckets for every project and throwing them away afterward.
Ironically, what started as a traditional efficiency technique also turned out to be environmentally practical. Over the years, I’d guess these cut pots have kept thousands of disposable buckets out of landfills on my own projects alone.
After years of quoting jobs and wondering why my bank account never matched what I thought I was making, I finally figured out what I was missing.
Most contractors calculate: hours × rate + materials = quote
The real formula is: (hours × rate) + labor burden + overhead allocation + materials markup = your true cost
Here’s what each one means:
Labor burden — your hourly rate doesn’t account for SE tax (15.3%), health insurance, or workers comp. Add 20-28% on top of your base labor cost. That’s what the job actually costs you in labor.
Overhead allocation — add up your monthly fixed costs. Truck payment, insurance, phone, tools, software, fuel. Divide by your billable hours per month. That number gets added to every job hour you work. For most solo contractors this is $8-15 per hour.
Materials markup — you’re not a supply house. 15-20% markup on materials covers your time sourcing, carrying costs, and waste.
Example: 10 hour electrical job at $65/hr
• Base labor: $650
• Labor burden (22%): $143
• Overhead ($10/hr): $100
• Materials $500 + 20% markup: $600
• True cost: $1,493
• At 30% margin, quote: $2,133
Most guys would quote this at $1,150 and wonder why they’re tired and broke.
Happy to answer questions if anyone wants to break down their own numbers.