r/DIYSpeakers

3D printed (using PETG - 40% infill, and TPU 95A for gasket between baffle and box) the Micro-C enclosures on the Bambu X1C.

Since the X1C does not have a big enough bed to print in one piece, I used the Bambu Studio to split the body and baffle into two pieces and used epoxy to glue them together. Used bondo on the baffle to fill the glue line. Used contact cement to apply veneer.

Think the entire print took about 3 rolls of filament which is about 60 dollars or so. I think I could have built them with a single 2x4x8 foot piece of MDF that probably cost like 20. So not totally cost affective. However I will say finding 5/8 inch MDF around me (USA based) is about impossible, so the cabinet was built to exact spec that is in the micro-c documentation.

MIcro-C kit documentation Dont have the STL posted anywhere, but if anyone is interested will throw it up on one of the sites and link here.

These speakers image really well, and a surprising amount of bass for the little 4 inch drivers. Was a fun build.

Hi all

This is my first speaker/subwoofer project and I'm excited about the end result! 😁, so this is just me showing of.

I've wanted to add 2 subs to improve the bottom end of my Dynaudio Contour S3.4's for a while, so it was time to do something about it.

Initially I wanted to get 2 SVS SB-2000 pro's. But I already have a big amplifier and a receiver for DSP (Denon x3800h), so I didn't need active subwoofers. I realized that I could get what I wanted for half the price by DIY. A good opportunity for a nice project where a lot of my power tools came to good use.

The goal for the project was simple, build 2 subwoofers for music, which hopefully will be at least as good as a pair of SVS-2000 pros.

I've used a pair of scanspeak revelator 32w units for the project (32w/4878t00).

The cabinets are built with 19mm MDF, double MDF front baffle, with an additional 9mm MDF plate to create a rounded countersink hole for the units. So, a 47mm thick front baffle.

I've been creative with the bracing where I used the 9mm MDF I had. I made a "cross" to support the center of the walls, it also saved a bit space compared to window bracing.

To add weight and resonance damping, I mounted some bitumen plates on the walls as well (3kg extra weight). And then around 450g of polyfill for damping.

This results in 2x18kg heavy cabinets with a volume of 54l, and a Qtc around 0,7.

I'm still waiting for the second driver to be delivered, but so far the first subwoofer is running. It integrates and sounds very well! It could be fun to compare them with the SVS's subwoofers one day.

I like the white satin color, so I might also send my Dynaudios to the painter one day.

Thought this sub would appreciate it

1. Jeff Bagby Helios
2. An attempt at Curt Campbell's Uluwatu with SB15NRX
3. Altec 604E into a 5fu ft pro audio cabinet
4. Jeff Bagby Revolution
5. Mad 3 way diy for inlaws using JBL M2, 2435HPL be compression driver, Acoustic Elegance TD15M-8Apollo and SBP12-8Apollo (B&W 684 for scale)
6. 2 way version of 5
7. Curt Campbell's Uluwatu proper, these had the fastest thumpest mid bass ever! Sadly lacked refinement
8. Open baffle with Coral Flat 6 & Acoustic Elegance Dipole15
9. SB Kalasan satori bookshelf on top of a TQWP for AudioTechnology 12"
10. Vertical laminated boathull design for Scanspeak 990000 & 15W8530K00
11. John K's Nao Note II
12. Zaph's Waveguide TMM 2.5 way (and Linkwitz Pluto)
13. SEOS15 w/ B&C DE250 and Acoustic Elegance TD15M using the xsim author's design
14. SB Kalasan again on top of a nice cherry cabinet with two Acoustic TD10M-8Apollo
15. Beyma TPL150H with Acoustic Elegance TD6M open baffle matched the 14's woofer modules
16. Troels Gravasen's Jenzen Seas ER for in laws
17. My own pair of Jenzen Seas ER
18. Curt Campbell/Jim Holtz's Statements