r/DIYSpeakers

It’s a kicker sub, kicker amp, bass is insanely loud and distorted. I’m a novice at this so if you think you can tell me how to fix it explain it to me like I’m 5!

Thanks for all the responses. It was the hi/lo button. The gain was high because I was trouble shooting didn’t even know what it was. For the record I’m 19. To all of the key board warriors on here talking crazy learn how to read a description before you comment. I made it clear I was new to this and you guys are out here acting like children.

Hi guys! Recently I’ve had a sub installed into my car. And I bought myself a 4 channel amp but I have no idea what I even need to do. I’ve tried YouTube but no one seems to wanna bypass the amp in my car. I DO know that I’ll lose thd factory rear sub, which is fine, cause I blew it out months ago. I have the tools necessary like wire and the little connectors but I just don’t know what to do. Attached is a document referencing each wire on the amp.

Hi, I hope this is the correct sub for something like this, apologies if not. My wife and I recently inherited a crawlspace full of, well a lot of stuff from my Father in Law. Lots of audio equipment that I’m not familiar with. I know enough to know that these are drivers but I have no idea if they’re nice (worth keeping/selling/trying to learn to build speakers with) or just more stuff for the “this was a hoarding issue” pile. I can provide more pictures or other info if needed.

Thanks!

Es gibt Beryllium Hochtöner, die aus reiner hochgiftiger Berylliumfolie geprägt wurden, diese Hochtöner haben eine maximale Steifigkeit und nur eine minimale bewegte Masse. Der Hochtöner schwingt im gesamten Übertragungsbereich resonanzfrei, Aufbrucherscheinungen der Membran sind weit über den Hörbereich verschoben und können so nicht mehr das Klanggeschehen prägen. Hochtöner mit Beryllium Membran können locker 1000€ pro Stück kosten.

Melodavid aus China baut nun so einen Hochtöner der Firma Scan Speak nach, scheut keine Details, also kopiert das komplette Magnetsystem, sogar die Gummiwulst um die Membran, baut dann aber eine Kalotte mit einer BeCu- Legierung ein. Betrachtet man es theoretisch, dann ist die reine Beryllium Kalotte stark im Vorteil, aber warum nimmt Melodavid dann eine Kupferlegierung mit ca. 2-4% Beryllium, die deutlich schwerer ist.

Erst dachte ich, du bekommst das, was du bezahlst, nicht mehr!

Nach ersten Praxistests wurde mir klar, diese BeCu- Kalotte ist keine preisliche Verlegenheit, sondern ein absoluter Technologieträger, die Entspanntheit und Natürlichkeit im Klang schafft keine reine Berylliumkalotte, die innere Dämpfung dieser Membran setzt Maßstäbe, auch wenn der Preis pro Hochtöner mit ca. 60€ pro Stück sehr günstig angeboten wird!

As the title says, I am looking for the best speaker insulation material. Should I use some sound foam as picture 2 shows or some polyester damping wool?

On picture 2 is a centimeter thick semi-soft foam panel from a local foam company and on pic 1 is just generic speaker fill.

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I removed the old caulk/sealant and will use mortite when I put it back together post solder work. I've read (and can see) the tiny wires inside are certainly a weak point. I plan to change those out in stages. First I want to see just caps.

I'm trying to pair an RS225P-4A, an 8" 4 ohm woofer, with the RST28F-4 fabric dome 4 ohm tweeter.
All just in the thinking phase now. I haven't purchased the drivers yet.

I am getting a hump at 1khz, but I can model around that a bit. And a nasty spike at 2400khz that I can't seem to tame unless I model the woofer starting to roll off around 250hz, which is way too low.

Am I just trying to make a sub do a mid-bass job? PE is claiming that this driver is usable up to 5.5khz, but the spike (from VituixCAD modeling dB and phase, it's not there in dB alone) isn't something I can puzzle out. I've tried modeling my box in the diffraction tool, but that didn't seem to matter up this high. And I've tried the optimizer but it just makes things worse and gives me unrealistic values for the components.

Anyone used this driver in the real world that can tell me what I'm missing in my model? Still very new to VituixCAD so operator error is possible/likely.

After replacing the stock speakers the rear speaker covers disintegrated. My attempts at reconstructing the abomination of a jigsaw puzzle were unsuccessful. What would be some smart alternatives for protecting the speakers from the sun. ( the covers I have now don’t secure properly and slide every which way)

Found these speakers and tested one out with a few devices, phone, laptop etc, and the audio is super low on both of them. All they have are an aux cable each. Is there something I'm missing as I'm not sure why they won't work?

The blue plug inserts to my car, however there then is a high pitched ring with nothing playing, and static once music is played. I can't figure out why

Is it possible to fit Hertz MPK1650.3 Pro speaker set into a bmw e36 328i sedan with the most basic sound system**.** I know its not bolt in but would it fit if you made holes for it to mount to. Also would it be able to fit behind the plastic cover.

Hi guys! I have a 2010 rav4 with the jbl audio and in about to swap the speakers on them for some JL650s anything I should know about wiring? I already did the tweeters before this cause they blew out pretty bad. Are there any surprises I should know of lol? I know the factory amp will now be the main killer of sound potential and it will be getting swapped once I find a decent one that won’t break the bank!