r/DIYhelp

Bypassing the Eight Sleep Hub With an External Chiller: Does This Setup Make Sense?
▲ 4 r/DIYhelp+3 crossposts

Bypassing the Eight Sleep Hub With an External Chiller: Does This Setup Make Sense?

I’m working on a DIY cooling setup using an Eight Sleep Pod 5 King cover that I currently own (no pod) as the mattress-side water grid, but replacing/bypassing the Eight Sleep hub with my own external cooling loop.

The goal is cooling only for now. I don’t care about heating. I also don’t want a permanent bucket/reservoir sitting in my bedroom, so I’m trying to build this as a mostly closed loop with fill/bleed/drain ports.

I’m posting because I’d like people to tear this apart before I buy everything. If there’s a flaw in the flow rate, pressure, tubing assumptions, pump choice, chiller choice, noise, condensation risk, etc., I’d rather find out now.

What inspired this

The main inspiration was this Truffle Security post:

https://trufflesecurity.com/blog/removing-jeff-bezos-from-my-bed

They used an Eight Sleep cover and connected the tubing to an aquarium chiller. That made me realize the useful part of the Eight Sleep system, for my purposes, is really the water-circulating cover.

I also looked at a bunch of other DIY / repair / teardown posts:

Why I’m doing this

I like the Eight Sleep cover concept, but I don’t love being locked into the official hub/cloud/subscription ecosystem. I’m mainly trying to get a reliable cooling setup that is:

  • quiet enough for a bedroom
  • cooling-only
  • serviceable
  • leak-conscious
  • not wildly expensive
  • not dependent on a permanent open reservoir/bucket

I looked into thermoelectric/Peltier options because they’re closer to how Eight Sleep seems to work, but most DIY-friendly TEC setups look either underpowered, inefficient, noisy once fans are included, or expensive enough that I might as well use the official hub.

So I’m leaning compressor chiller.

Proposed build

Basic loop idea:

Eight Sleep Pod 5 cover outlet
-> small 12V brushless inline pump
-> aquarium compressor chiller
-> Eight Sleep Pod 5 cover inlet

Service ports:

High point:
T-fitting -> valve -> capped fill/bleed tube

Low point:
T-fitting -> valve -> drain hose to bucket

I do not want a permanent reservoir. I’m okay using a bucket only when filling, bleeding, or draining.

Proposed shopping list

Chiller

Poafamx / AL-160 / 42 gal / 1/10 HP aquarium chiller

Amazon examples I found:

Reasoning: It’s a compressor model, relatively affordable, and some listings claim under 35 dB. I’m skeptical of that number, so I’d test it myself and return it if it’s loud.

Pump

TOPSFLO TL-B10-A12-0703 or similar 12V brushless DC pump.

Target pump specs:

12V DC
~7 L/min
~3 m head
~6–8 W
continuous duty
inline capable
not dry-run safe

Reasoning: This seems closer to the pump class used in older Eight Sleep units than a big aquarium pump. I originally looked at Sicce Syncra pumps, but they may be overkill flow-wise.

Pump power

12V DC power supply, probably 2A minimum, ideally UL-listed.

Tubing

Silicone tubing, but I’m not buying final adapters until I physically measure the Pod 5 tubing ID/OD.

Service fittings

  • 2x barbed T-fittings
  • 2x small ball valves
  • caps/plugs
  • drain hose
  • optional flow indicator

Clamps

Stainless worm-drive or Oetiker clamps on every barb. No zip-tie-only connections.

Leak/safety

  • leak tray / boot tray under all wet hardware
  • water leak detector, probably Govee or similar
  • GFCI outlet or plug-in GFCI adapter
  • rubber/foam isolation under pump/chiller
  • soft tubing near pump to reduce vibration transfer

Fluid

  • distilled water
  • some kind of compatible loop treatment / biocide

Still undecided here. I don’t want to use anything that might damage the Pod cover or tubing.

Things I’m unsure about

  1. Is the Poafamx chiller actually quiet enough, or are the “under 35 dB” claims fantasy?
  2. Is a 1/10 HP compressor chiller the right size for a king-size hydronic mattress cover?
  3. Is the TOPSFLO-style pump too weak, too strong, or about right?
  4. Should I add a tiny inline expansion chamber even if I don’t want a reservoir?
  5. Is running this without a reservoir going to be annoying to fill/bleed?
  6. Any reason this closed-loop design would create pressure problems for the Eight Sleep cover?
  7. What’s the best way to avoid condensation if I’m cooling below room temp?
  8. Any recommendations for safe biocide / loop treatment that won’t damage the cover?
  9. Has anyone measured the Pod 5 cover tubing ID/OD or connector type?
  10. Am I missing a better quiet compressor chiller under/near $350?

Basically: does this look reasonable, or am I about to build a quiet-looking but actually loud/leaky mattress aquarium?

Would appreciate any criticism, especially from people who have torn down Pods, repaired leaks, built DIY chillers, or measured the noise on these aquarium compressor units.

u/KolorOner — 1 day ago

What, If Any of This, Can I Realistically Do Myself?

Alright, first some content.

Without going deeply into it, cuz it's besides the point, I've recently gotten the chance to move from my current studio appartment to somewhere with more space.

I would obviously like to do this. However, there are some issues. Namely some stuff I'd like to change.

I'm not a professional in any way though. Nor do I have much DIY experience. I've helped my father do some home renovations before, but I mostly assisted and did what he said while he did the more complicated stuff. My father has said he's not interested in helping though. So it would just be me.

I'm also not exactly swimming in money at the moment. I have some, but my savings are not exactly huge either. And I want to spend as little of them as I can manage. But I don't know how much I can do myself.

Alright, now as for the stuff I want to change...

First, I really don't like the kitchen. It's not against the wall, but just kind of awkwardly placed in almost a bar format. Like an L-shape. That means there are only cabinets below, no cabinets that are hanging. Which is a huge waste of potential storage space. And I cook a lot. So having to go to the storage space on the other side of the house every time would seem not very convenient.

Its placement also makes an already not huge living room/kitchen seem smaller.

It's also 30 years old. So it's not exactly in the best shape (although not broken either) and its design is not exactly modern either.

Ideally, I would like to tear down that kitchen (it's entirely wooden, btw, not marble or something). Get a decent looking but relatively cheap Ikea kitchen with hanging cabinets. And put that against the wall.

I don't need to move any electricity, which is good. And I don't need to move the ventilation above the stove. But the sink is currently in a place not against the wall. So that seems like a difficult thing to do that I'm worried about. And I would really rather like to get rid of the gas stove altogether, which I have no idea how to do either. But I'm used to cooking with induction.

If it were completely impossible to move the sink, I could think of maybe making it an island and putting some more hanging cabinets to the left of it? But that's not my preference. And it would presumably still involve tearing most of it down and putting a new kitchen there.

I would also like to put click laminate on the floor for the entire place. Because it has extremely cold tiles that my feet would be freezing on every day. I can theoretically just put that above the tiles, but then what about the doors? Will they clear? Can I realistically saw part of it off?

I could maybe break out the tiles. But while I think I can manage that as I have done a bit of that before, it's not exactly easy to make it entirely straight. And for that sort of laminate you need a relatively straight surface to put it on. I would also have to saw parts off the laminate, I imagine, which I've never done.

But then the most difficult part of all... the bathroom.

Right now it is extremely dark. Both in the sense that it has almost no natural light and in the sense that the tile is extremely dark. It is not pleasant at all to be in.

Again, as well, the sink is place in a very illogical location that shrinks the room. Toilet is fine. Water heater is fine.

It also has a bathtub and no shower. Which sucks, since I only ever shower and don't like baths.

What I would like to do there is put that laminate on the floor too (it'll be water tight, so no worries about that). Break out the bathtub. And then put up PVC panels against the walls over the dark tiles and paint those a nice light colour.

And then, finally, take my current shower booth and place it where the tub used to be.

And other than a coat of paint, that's basically it.

So, how achievable is it for me as a novice to do what parts of this if any? And what parts would I really need to pay a professional for? Keeping in mind that my funds are quite limited, especially cuz I'll already have to be paying for the materials and I'm single.

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u/OneOnOne6211 — 1 day ago

Building a DIY toolkit on a tight budget

First time owning a home and my finances are kinda tight right now, but I want to slowly build a decent set of tools for basic home repairs and DIY stuff. Things like fixing loose screws, hanging shelves, small repairs, furniture assembly, maybe simple plumbing/electrical tasks later on.

I keep seeing those generic “100-piece tool kits” on Amazon, AliExpress, eBay, Alibaba, etc. Are those actually worth buying for beginners, or is it better to buy tools one by one as needed?

What would you consider the essential budget-friendly starter tools every homeowner should have?

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u/Nexofyte — 1 day ago

Paint peeling

The paints been peeling off my wall since forever. What do I need to do to repair it and prevent this from happening again?

u/Illustrious-Show-264 — 2 days ago

Best way to fix leather top?

I got this desk which is made to look like a giant book. The top had a ton of fingernail polish splatters and this large discolored spot. I used a non acetone polish remover to get all the polish splatters off, which of course seemed to remove some top coating/finish as well. Is there some type of leather paint I would use to attempt to fix or am I better off trying to strip it all off and repaint the top myself somehow?

u/SquidProQuo13 — 2 days ago
▲ 2 r/DIYhelp+1 crossposts

DIY desk for gaming setup

I am building a custom desk for my gaming setup. I sketched out this blueprint by hand (proportions are estimated).
The two desks won't be connected together.
Here are the parts:
- Desk legs (Green circles): https://www.ikea.com/ca/en/p/adils-leg-black-70217973/#content
- Desk 1: https://www.ikea.com/ca/en/p/ekbacken-countertop-brown-walnut-effect-laminate-60476486/#content
- Desk 2: https://www.ikea.com/ca/en/p/tolken-countertop-brown-walnut-effect-laminated-board-50568325/#content
- Monitor A (Main monitor): https://rog.asus.com/ca-en/monitors/32-to-34-inches/rog-swift-oled-pg34wcdm/
- Monitor B: https://www.asus.com/ca-en/displays-desktops/monitors/tuf-gaming/tuf-gaming-vg34vqel1a/
- Monitor arms (Dark blue): https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B07NLMLLT6?ref=ppx_pop_dt_b_product_details&th=1

I already own both of the monitors, and one arm for the main monitor.

Is the placement for the legs good? Is the material for the desks strong enough to handle the weight of my monitors and the pressure at the clamping points? Would the monitor arm listed work for my second monitor since It will be extended quite a bit?

https://preview.redd.it/sdrzblqo772h1.png?width=689&format=png&auto=webp&s=30b82213dd06b96f87a815437f3c7464e91739bd

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u/JawaZo — 2 days ago

How can I open a draw bar lock remotely?

So Ive got a really mundane gate lock, just two blocks with another in between to stop the gate from opening. Works great, but I have to go around the gate to move the block by hand to open/close the thing. I'm trying to think of a way to do it remotely, so I don't have to go back and forth all the time. I think a simple pulley and counterweight situation will be easiest, but I don't know how I will drop the weight remotely. Ive been looking at smart switches on amazon, but I don't think they will have enough push to move anything substantial. I only have to move the block about a foot upward, and the most important bit is that I don't want other people to be able to do it. I'm open to other ideas too if people have some, any advice?

u/artisio — 3 days ago

What’s the best way to remove these?

I got this cabinet as a gift and plan on staining it. What’s the best way to remove/break off these nails with a typical tool kit?

u/Inevitable_Card_2535 — 3 days ago

Help me hang this!

Is it possible to hang this thing without using a stud? Can I somehow hang this only on drywall?

u/Puzzleheaded_Fox5820 — 4 days ago
▲ 4 r/DIYhelp+1 crossposts

Adhesive required?

Hi all....quick question if you don't mind. This is a waste pipe connection to a soil pipe boss. The waste pipe has been connected with a push in rubber bung which has worked loose and dripping. My question is, why would that come loose? Should they not normally be fitted with adhesive? Are they generally considered crap? Is there a better way of doing it? Many thanks.

u/Expert_Valuable_687 — 5 days ago
▲ 142 r/DIYhelp+3 crossposts

How would you remove a stripped Allan that’s only removable using an impact?

Sorry if it’s the wrong sub but the bum who tightened these 2 screws must have hated his job as it was impossible to remove them without using my impact. One went out fine and the other is very stubborn. ATP it’s mostly stripped and some methods I’ve seen don’t seem like they’d hold up well against high torque. So what would you do?

u/Ok-Leg3477 — 8 days ago

Stair refinishing project, stumped by the banister

I'm about to refinish these awful looking stairs. Plan to pull up the rug and paint the risers white, and refinish the treads with wood stain. I feel confident that I can slowly but surely complete this project, minus this area which is really stumping me. Does anyone have any advice on how to navigate around the banister on the bottom step? We ultimately want to replace the banister altogether with a more modern wood/metal combo, but we're not there yet. Thank you in advance.

u/eileenthewoodnewb — 4 days ago
▲ 7 r/DIYhelp+1 crossposts

Can this be fixed without sanding the whole table?

My wife decided to iron her clothes on the table and thought it would be safe if she layed a towel down on it before. She tried to scrub it and theirs some scratches within the heat marks but not deep or noticeable without looking close

u/girthhhbrooks — 8 days ago

No idea what I’m doing…

I’m working on turning my dining room into a small business work room. I want it to look cute but more importantly- be functional. I’m not handy…. AT ALL and would like to use as much of what I already have as possible.

All that said…. I have two questions:

1- Will mending seams help make this look more like one continuous piece of counter?

2- I hate the support legs. Do I NEED support? If I remove the legs what can I use that is cheap and EASY?

Dumb it down for me.

u/ExcellentNothing1523 — 6 days ago
▲ 12 r/DIYhelp+1 crossposts

Need help with stiffening/joining aluminium

Building a coffee table from 4mm H111 aluminium (1200x60x38). I have the pieces bent and ready, but I’m struggling with two things:

  1. How to join the two sections together using countersunk screws so it looks clean/flush.
  2. I don't have an AC TIG welder, so welding is out of the question. I need to reinforce it from the inside without the bracing being visible from the side.
  3. Is my best bet some internal angle iron and epoxy? Or maybe rivet nuts? If you’ve built metal furniture without welding, I’d love to hear how you tackled the structural support. Thanks!

Edit: I usually dont work with aluminium so i dont know much about it.

u/SSG__1 — 8 days ago
▲ 2 r/DIYhelp+1 crossposts

Help with hanging mirror

For reference this mirror is 28 pounds and 71 inches in width (35 inches top to bottom). I would like to hang it in a specific direction which means the two brackets circled would be on the bottom and the other bracket on top. Is this possible? If so, what is the best way to go about this?

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u/em4691 — 6 days ago

Seeking a tool or mechanism that would prevent a door slamming, even if someone wanted to.

Hi everyone, 

A door close to my room slams shut because it gets closed fast. It's easy to do it gently, and I've asked people to, but it's starting to get to me and I want to ask for knowledgeable answers to this: I'm looking for a tool or mechanism of some sort, maybe a door-closer, that would effectively prevent this door from getting slammed any more. The people who do so don't intend to, they just don't think about it, and close it fast when they use it. I imagine a tool could start acting in the last 15º or so of it closing. Sometimes in public buildings I find it's quite hard to close the door, like there is strong resistance to closing it, and I want this to be something like that, if there aren't other solutions that come to mind. I'm looking for something that would make door-slamming prevented. 

And, if it's available, I would like the door to not be interfered with in pretty much any other way. When it stays open it lets a lot of light in. And I wouldn't want to make it harder to use the door in any other way, I just want those last 2 seconds or 15º of it closing to get "cushioned". This is my own thought, but perhaps something that would ease if in those last 15º was guided gently, but stiffen more the faster and harder the pull is.

I found quite a few door-closers on Amazon, but I'm not sure which one or which kind to get. That's when I wanted to ask someone knowledgeable, please. So long as it makes the door closing quieter, that's what I'm searching for.
___________________________________________________________________

(two more questions)

  1. The doorknob is also a minor problem: often times people release it without care, instead of doing so slowly, and it snaps back into position and makes a sharp sound. It's the circular kind. I also want to change the doorknob, and I want to ask for suggestions on quieter doorknobs, please.

  2. I will also stick felt pads or other soft materials in the doorknob hole to reduce the "click" sound when the door clicks in place, and I'd like to ask for suggestions what methods of that  may quiet more effectively.

u/Resident-Willow-3265 — 7 days ago

What's the best way to remove rust and prevent future rust from this shed?

u/Bdaman97 — 11 days ago

Leaking garburator

I've discovered a split pipe connection to the under sink garburator (brass coloured pipe in photo). Is that an integral part of the garburator or a separate pipe?

u/Interesting_Cable_31 — 9 days ago