r/Diesel

Truck died on me on the highway, wasn't getting oil pressure from the hpop, replaced the ipr and truck still wouldn't start forscan was showing low oil pressure. Wouldn't get higher then 200psi. Put on a new hpop truck started up but was rough as hell and billowing out white smoke from the exhaust and started making a knocking noise.

I thought the wire is out of place

This guy says it‘s fuel heater https://youtu.be/gUYvbO04WGM?si=mlFyvL7KtbbsBk4-&t=1118

Looking to pick up a diesel and these are the two I have decided on going to look at, any opinions? Red truck is a 2007 lmm that is deleted, tuned, 226k miles for $12,000 Silver truck is a 2012 lml that is also deleted, tuned, 245k miles, this one has a cp3 conversion kit, lift pump, new radiator, new turbo, new injectors, cognito uppers, forged tie rods, also for $12,000.

I’m currently looking into buying my first dually ram
What are you guys think on this deal he said he’s willing to work on the price. It has minor issues but no blow by I’m new to these trucks and don’t know much. Any info would help a lot.

1. First is open dog house cover, the bottom two clips have to be rotated to unlock(I have to youtube it). I also cleaned the cover as much as I can it was very greasy, heated/concentrated oil been stuck in the rubber.
2. Take out the resonator, mine is just the hose clamp, 8mm socket. The stand/leg of mine is broken in half. I cleaned it, it’s greasy inside out
3. after removing the resonator, you should be able to see the cover, open it using a screw driver(or a slim metal bar) as a bar
4. The old filter was hold by the cap with 4 teeth, it was hard to take it off, I had to use a flat head screw driver and brutal force it.
5. I drained the fuel bowl with a hand pump, so I can collect the fuel in a bowl.
6. The fuel filter I bought does not match the cover, the hole is too small, I had no choice but drill it bigger
7. There is a metal wire at the bottom of my fuel bowl, it’s out of place. I’m not sure what it is. I didn’t have anyway to fix it. So I just put the fuel filter in and kept driving.

How bad is this amount of blow by considered, 2013 6.7 powerstroke, 252k miles ccv bypass kit. Wondering if a turbo going out could over pressurize the crank case, so replacing the engine can be avoided. Any possible fixes or just needs a new engine dropped in soon?

Looking to pick this up for 13k. Clean title, 5 speed, 4x4. 260k miles. Interior is a bit rough but everything it done: KDP, 5th gear nut retaining, PDD HX35 64/60, PDD Powerjet injectors Stage 2, PDD 3k/4k valve springs. Transfer case and transmission rebuilt in the last two years. Paints pretty faded on the hood and interior is a little rough. ST trim. Should be picking it up next week. Did I do okay?

While running errands today in this scorching East Coast heat wave, I had the A/C on max with the fan at the highest setting. The truck suddenly stalled. I switched the A/C to regular mode with the fan on level 2, restarted it in neutral, and it ran fine afterward.
The O/D light was flashing immediately after the stall but eventually turned off. All of my fluid levels and engine temperatures are normal.
One other thing worth mentioning is that my rear differential has an occasional slip and has a small leak. I’ve been keeping it topped off, but I haven’t checked or added fluid in a little while. I already have a complete rear differential rebuild planned.
Could running the A/C on full blast have put enough load on the electrical system to cause this? When I scanned it, I also got codes for the input and output speed sensors. I replaced both of those sensors a few months ago, so I’m not sure if they’re related or if they’re just a result of the stall.
Any ideas on where I should start looking?

As of now, here's what happened: ​(Vids + photos: https://photos.app.goo.gl/rX6HXe9PyKZMptex6 )

Driving normally down a residential street, doing 25MPH at most. RPMs are steadily going higher, up to the point where it sounds as if im reving it (even though im not)

I checked the dipstick, no signs of metalic substances or discoloration, fluid is at appropriate level.

When accelerating, the vehicle feels as if its struggling/unable to move, and it even vibrates alot. I compare this to wheels seizing up and being dragged on pavement. When in reverse, nothing happens.

I put it in neutral, moves foward and back as it should.

Had to go somewhere so I park and return an hour later, the vehicle actually moves as if nothing happens (foward and back in gear)

Vehicle repeats what I described earlier (struggling to move, etc) after a few minutes driving. When put in reverse, nothing happens.

Called Tripple A, had to get it towed to a shop

Transmission: 4L60E, US Shift Quick 4, External Hayden Transmission Cooler, 20k miles on it Vehicle: 1990 Chevy K5 Blazer, 85' 6.2 Detroit Diesel w/h ATS Turbo Kit..