





Im looking at replacing my tacoma for a diesel for towing my car and bike collection along with a small amount of personal belongings across the US to my new house. If I can get the truck at a dealer ill be trading in the taco with an estimated price of around 35,000 by KBB. Afterwards the diesel will become my daily and will be used for towing project cars and my track builds. What should I be looking to go out and buy? Ideally I dont want a payment on it since I hate having to deal with that shit.
Truck died on me on the highway, wasn't getting oil pressure from the hpop, replaced the ipr and truck still wouldn't start forscan was showing low oil pressure. Wouldn't get higher then 200psi. Put on a new hpop truck started up but was rough as hell and billowing out white smoke from the exhaust and started making a knocking noise.
I thought the wire is out of place
This guy says it‘s fuel heater https://youtu.be/gUYvbO04WGM?si=mlFyvL7KtbbsBk4-&t=1118
Looking to pick up a diesel and these are the two I have decided on going to look at, any opinions? Red truck is a 2007 lmm that is deleted, tuned, 226k miles for $12,000 Silver truck is a 2012 lml that is also deleted, tuned, 245k miles, this one has a cp3 conversion kit, lift pump, new radiator, new turbo, new injectors, cognito uppers, forged tie rods, also for $12,000.
So, I was looking for a new project car, and I landed myself a pretty clean 1.6L TDi Octavia from 2010, and its been pretty good to me, the 7 speed DSG is not as bad as people say when you learn how it shifts and how to use it, got it lowered a little and stiffened up a bit for them backroads and mountain rides, but one thing is missing: >!POWER!<, this thing makes approx. 105 HP, it would be fun in a smaller car, like the Fabia, or maybe even a Miata, but for this big boy? it needs more, so I’m here to look for suggestions on what to do to it? What brands/products can help increase the power of this mighty 1.6 liter diesel engine? What do I search up? What do I look for? I am confused!
Ok so new here and not super knowledgeable on diesels. I have an issue with my turbo. When cruising at about 50 MPH the turbo gage flutters and it make a high pitched sound. When I let off the gas it goes away or if I put more fuel into it stops. My question where should I start to look for a fix. Note with in the last year a new turbo was installed but it was doing it before the new turbo too.
I’m currently looking into buying my first dually ram
What are you guys think on this deal he said he’s willing to work on the price. It has minor issues but no blow by I’m new to these trucks and don’t know much. Any info would help a lot.
As in the title, I have a hydra chip that tunes the injectors. For smog, setting it to 00 on the selector, the trucks runs terrible. I haven’t fixed a tune that runs it really smoothly, a little lower on the rpm’s and reduces the smoke to 0. For the California smog folks, would that program (not the 00 one) pass the OBDII portion? I’ve heard conflicting things saying that they will be able to see the fuel trim levels vs stock settings TO our pcm’s aren’t advanced to provide that through the obd.
Any one know the truth to this?
How bad is this amount of blow by considered, 2013 6.7 powerstroke, 252k miles ccv bypass kit. Wondering if a turbo going out could over pressurize the crank case, so replacing the engine can be avoided. Any possible fixes or just needs a new engine dropped in soon?
Looking to pick this up for 13k. Clean title, 5 speed, 4x4. 260k miles. Interior is a bit rough but everything it done: KDP, 5th gear nut retaining, PDD HX35 64/60, PDD Powerjet injectors Stage 2, PDD 3k/4k valve springs. Transfer case and transmission rebuilt in the last two years. Paints pretty faded on the hood and interior is a little rough. ST trim. Should be picking it up next week. Did I do okay?
Does anybody else seem to think the same?
08 6.4 and I’ve used AMSOIL Signature and Rotella T6 before. I have reverted back to using Motorcraft synthetic blend 15w-40 and the truck seems to run a little quieter and smoother. I would be interested in trying a totally conventional oil if anybody has any thoughts or suggestions?
I was going to install a aftermarket intake and intercooler and was wondering if I should either put a catch can or re route the vent hose down the frame (truck has like 3 oil leaks anyway) to keep oil out of the new intake system. 2000 f350 7.3
While running errands today in this scorching East Coast heat wave, I had the A/C on max with the fan at the highest setting. The truck suddenly stalled. I switched the A/C to regular mode with the fan on level 2, restarted it in neutral, and it ran fine afterward.
The O/D light was flashing immediately after the stall but eventually turned off. All of my fluid levels and engine temperatures are normal.
One other thing worth mentioning is that my rear differential has an occasional slip and has a small leak. I’ve been keeping it topped off, but I haven’t checked or added fluid in a little while. I already have a complete rear differential rebuild planned.
Could running the A/C on full blast have put enough load on the electrical system to cause this? When I scanned it, I also got codes for the input and output speed sensors. I replaced both of those sensors a few months ago, so I’m not sure if they’re related or if they’re just a result of the stall.
Any ideas on where I should start looking?
I am PCSing to Fairbanks in a couple of months, What should I do to winterize my 7.3 Diesel to prepare for the winter that can go down to -60 F?
Im wondering why diesel engines need EGR AND an SCR. It makes no sense to me. They both do the same job, just differently. And in my opinion, Id much rather have just an SCR than EGR. 99% of the reliability problems with emissions systems comes from the EGR system, Id happily take a larger SCR in place of an EGR system, even if that means it burns through DEF quicker. Because as much as we like to hate on DPFs and SCRs and DEF, at least all that stuff is seprate from the engine, if the vehicle had only those, the engine could at least run in peace, operating like any other diesel engine would 20 or 30 years ago. But the EGR is what comes along and ruins it all. Its what causes the carbon buildup, the check engine lights, the power loss, the coolant leaks into the intake, the sensor problems, EVERYTHING. The vast majority of reliability issues with modern diesels comes from the EGR alone, yet manufactuers still use them. And theres no EPA requirement to have an EGR, just a NOx target, the manufacturers can go about reaching that NOx target however they want, but they ALL choose EGR+SCR not just SCR by itself for some reason, and I just dont get it. Especially because from what I understand, SCR is WAY better at reducing NOx than EGR.
As of now, here's what happened: (Vids + photos: https://photos.app.goo.gl/rX6HXe9PyKZMptex6 )
Driving normally down a residential street, doing 25MPH at most. RPMs are steadily going higher, up to the point where it sounds as if im reving it (even though im not)
I checked the dipstick, no signs of metalic substances or discoloration, fluid is at appropriate level.
When accelerating, the vehicle feels as if its struggling/unable to move, and it even vibrates alot. I compare this to wheels seizing up and being dragged on pavement. When in reverse, nothing happens.
I put it in neutral, moves foward and back as it should.
Had to go somewhere so I park and return an hour later, the vehicle actually moves as if nothing happens (foward and back in gear)
Vehicle repeats what I described earlier (struggling to move, etc) after a few minutes driving. When put in reverse, nothing happens.
Called Tripple A, had to get it towed to a shop
Transmission: 4L60E, US Shift Quick 4, External Hayden Transmission Cooler, 20k miles on it Vehicle: 1990 Chevy K5 Blazer, 85' 6.2 Detroit Diesel w/h ATS Turbo Kit..
Recently widowed and my guy’s favorite truck needs help.
2012 6.7 Superduty XLT 8’ bed, stock. No rust. Very good body condition. Underbody is A+ condition.
Best running truck we’ve ever had. Used for tons of highway miles, hauling campers, horses, farm equipment, etc.
It’s sat for 2 years (while he was fighting cancer).
Needs new tires, batteries & windshield. 330,000 miles.
Every guy friend of his has told me to get it deleted and keep using it. I’d like to keep it as replacing it isn’t an option.
Please give me advice about finding a good diesel mechanic to do the modifications. I’m near St Paul, MN & Hudson, WI.
Also, (rough ballpark) how many $1 dollar tacos is this gonna cost?