r/DodgeRam

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After having over $13,000 in paint and body work in the first six months of ownership and being left with a mismatched door, a air suspension that doesnt operate as designed and STAR doesnt have a solution, various electrical issues to include gauge cluster not functioning, flashing odometer, and other issues I was denied atbitration. On a truck with a $86,100 MSRP this is how Stellantis and NCDS treats consumers. I will never own another RAM. Pure tom foolery.

1996 ram 2500 cummins.
freshly rebuilt 47RE by myself, followed the shop manual thoroughly. new DPC triple disc converter.
was eager to fill it with fluid and go through the gears tonight. when i had filled 13 liters fluid started to pour from the little inspection hatch for the TC.
any suggestions? feels a little exhausting to pull the transmission again 😔

I recently jumped into getting this truck, 2002 1500 4.7 Sport 2wd. Truck is in great condition, no rust or anything going on with it. Bought it under the pretence of having a bad PCM. The previous owner stated that while driving the truck had just shut off and crank no start from there on. He replaced the fuel pump, ignition coils, battery, crank and camshaft sensors before comming to the conclusion it was the PCM.

Now that I have the truck, after some research and testing, I found a bad fuse box and FCM. I did get a refurbished PCM but still crank no start. After more testing and not being able to get spark but fuel and inyectors working I finally found the culprit. Broken reluctor ring in the crank.

Engine has 80k miles, my question is:

Is it worth it to pull the engine and replace the ring?

Any insight will be appreciated

1999 Doge Ram 1500 221,000km.
Is it worth sandblasting to save it?
I know the exhaust need to be changed for sure, but is the pin at risk? Help!

So I recently bought this truck, an 03 1 ton. It currently has some type of cobbled together lift pump setup that intermittently doesn't work. I'm in the process of replacing all this junk with a FASS Signature series. I would like to run the fuel into the factory filter housing instead of straight to the injection pump. My reasons being that I want to keep the Water-in-fuel sensor and the fuel heater functional and operating in the fuel system. I removed the factory lift pump that was unplugged and not being used, from looking at the inlet and what I found online I think I have found the right pieces to adapt to run the fuel into the filter housing from the FASS pump. I would just like to confirm if the pieces I found from Glacier are the right things and what I'm trying to do is going to work properly.

Also one other thing - I would like to install a brand new fuel inlet line from the filter housing going into the cp3. I have had trouble finding the right part, everything I seem to find available online is for 12v engines. Wondering if anybody knows where to find the fuel feed line for an 03 24v engine. Thanks

Is there a way to keep this on without keeping interior lights on?

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What’s the best catback/exhaust set up for them, also what are some good mods to add on I want all black beefy look n def a sound system, this is my first truck so any tips help not just about my specific question

I drove a 16’ Jeep JKU for 9 years, with a ton of modifications, along with a 4” lift and 325/60/20’s. It drove like a tractor but I loved it until all the maintenance demons woke up and refused to go away. After $14k spent on problems in the last 18 months I finally gave up.

I have had this for 6 weeks and I’m obsessed. 22 Ram Sport GT w/ 4” lift and 35’s. I have a major case of look back syndrome when I park lol

How bad is to bad, can this be fixed n still drivable thru any terrain or does this look like I need a new frame?

I've been struggling to get responses for selling my 2017 RAM 1500. The main issue is that it is fully loaded and a lot of sites don't recognize all the options.

I'd love to know if you sold one, what was the site you sold it from, if you bought one, what site did you find it on?

Thank you!