r/Duramax

Hello everybody, I’m looking at buying a high mileage lml duramax that was used as a personal truck, it has 310k miles. It runs and drives great, I’m just worried about the cp4 pump. Is simply adding a lift pump and doing regular maintenance enough to not have to worry? Note, the truck does have a small tow tube on it, thank you

I'm starting a front end refresh on my 2016 that has about 135k on it. I drive about 50 miles a week on some very rough dirt roads and it's taken quite the toll on my steering and suspension over the past few years. Went to change a wheel hub last weekend and saw just how much play I was dealing with.

I'm planning on doing the usual items, tie rod ends, pitman arm, idler arm, upper and lower control arms with ball joints and the other remaining wheel hub, but I got to thinking while I'm doing it all, why not the CV axles at this time. They aren't currently exhibiting any signs of failure, but thinking along the lines of preventative maintenance. I usually stick to GM OEM or AC Delco Gold for parts, but am rethinking my strategy after seeing that OEM cv's are around $500 a piece.

Those with more experience than I in this area, what are your thoughts on the life expectancy of the current axles, or other aftermarket options if it's really a good idea to swap them while I've got everything out.

For years I had an 02 GMC 2500hd crewcab 4x4 with the 6.0 gas in it. When I needed to upgrade to a diesel I wanted my same truck, just a Duramax version but they were outrageously priced at the time and I ended up with a 2014 F350 crewcab 4x4 but I've always missed my ole GMC. It was a way more comfortable truck than my Ford, both in ride quality and seat comfort. Love the power of the Ford but it is a much more mechanically complex engine than the older Duramax.

I just stumbled across a really good deal on an 04 LLY and am contemplating going back to an older truck. I know it has a reduced towing capacity and less power than my current truck but it is still well within everything I tow. Having a truck that I can actually work on myself would be an added bonus.

So I’ve been waiting to delete my trucks EGR but I don’t know where to start and I don’t know what kit to actually get I’d like to get a full kit with the tuner with either the block offs or a whole delete kit whatever is better I just need to know the do’s and don’ts I tried to google it but I rather hear it from people who actually did it I’m not trying to spend 5k just on the kit then have to finger fuck my engine and have the possibility of messing it up any tips would be highly appreciated

What’re some brands that I should lean towards?? Not making a race truck just trying to get somethin good with longevity.

Anyone running a spin filter on their Duramax? Looking to see if anyone has input on it. Here’s the one I’m talking about.

Hi guys, I’ve got an opportunity to buy a 2003 lb7 with estimated around 350,000KMS. (Speedo stopped working 2 years ago at 320k)

The one and only owner of the truck says he hasn’t replaced the injectors, which I found surprising considering everything I’ve seen online and heard from friends about these engines.

I go to look at the truck tomorrow. If I don’t see any signs that the injectors are faulty, I should probably expect to replace them soon anyway, right?

Tell me what you think, and anything else I should consider before possibly buying the truck. Thanks!

Just started getting service emission system messages. Says 282 km till engine reduced to 108 km/h. How often should this warning be popping up. Every time I start the truck, I’ve seen it twice and it was multiple days in between. Engine light is on, but I scanned it and it is fuel pump related.

Hello, I was wondering what the most common issues are with the L5P and 6 Speed Allision are. So far, I've seen pigtails for motor and sometimes the transmission can get a bit too warm. Thank you in advance.

Is 40,000 for a 2016 Denali 3500 SRW Duramax a good deal? LML with 6 speed trans. Would be my first diesel, I don’t plan to daily.