r/Dyna

The fender strut bolt at the rear with the washer has begun to rust badly. both of them, literally the only rust on the entire bike. it’s driving me crazy. I have tried so many things to find exact replacements, preferably in black, or at least something stainless, but I cannot. Bought one bag of black ones that actually fit half decent, but the original hardware that goes on the bolt behind the fender doesn’t match somehow. would love to get some cool ARP ones from Bamco or somewhere, but there rear fender strut bolt kit, the bolts are like 1 and a 1/4 or something, not even close.

any ideas?? should be so simple, I know, but in practice, Iv struggled

Found this white/chalky buildup on the engine finish around the cylinder head on my 2000 fxdl.

Does anyone know what it is and what the best way is to clean it?

Thanks!

I have 10in straight risers with Thrashin mid bend bars, what length clutch cable should I buy along with correct length throttle and idle cables. The clutch cable now is way too long and came on the bike that way and the throttle cables are too long as well. Thanks!

Hi all, long time Dyna lover here.

Looking at this 2006 35th Anniversary.

Love the look and its the right price. I know all the issues about 2006 being the "bastard" year but can get around those issues.

I understand the chassis on these older dynas are good for the mountain twisty riding I like, and my first upgrades will be to the brakes and suspension to help this. I like injection over carbs.

I ride a 2005 Aprilia Tuono 1000r, so I already have another bike I can ride fast. I don't need a firebreather but is the 88 cube going to leave me disappointed?

I've ridden before

Evo Heritage Softail

103 Street bob

110 Dyna Low Rider s

114 Heritage Softail.

How does an 88 cube Dyna rate against these bikes? I haven't ridden a Dyna this old.

My favorite was obviously the Low Rider S for my style of riding.

The 35th Anniversary is $16k where I live (Australia)

A 16/17 Low Rider S is $25k

Leaves a heap of money to pour into the old bike.

What would you go for? A basic LRS or a heavily nodded older Dyna, mainly for fast twisty roads?

Cheers, all opinions appreciated.

Hey guys. Here’s my First post here and happy to share the love for dynas as much as you do.

I would really appreciate the help, as i’m completely out of ideas and really want to ride this bike.

I bought this bike in not running condition a month ago. Story is the bike went running perfectly to a mechanic that would change the handlebar. Fast forward, a month happened to pass by and now the bike doesn’t turn on at all.

When I bought the bike I inspected the harness plug near the ECU and noticed the guy tried testing a bunch of cables since most of them were cut open. The ignition turns on, but when I try to turn it on, there’s absolutely nothing hapening. I checked the codes and these are the ones that pop up in the PSSPTB diagnosis mode:

P Codes (Powertrain):
P0113 – Intake Air Temperature Sensor High Input
P0261 – Front Injector Low/Open Circuit
P0263 – Rear Injector Low/Open Circuit
P0374 – Crankshaft Position Sensor No Signal/Intermittent
P1001 – System Readiness Not Complete / ECM Reset Condition
P1010 – ECM Internal/System Fault / Communication Issue

S codes (security)
No response

SP codes (speedometer)
B1004 – Speedometer Internal Fault
B1005 – Speedometer Internal Fault

T Codes (Tachometer)
No response

After this, I decided to change the whole main harness and control switches with OEM cables and plugs to see if that would clear off the issue. But without luck, everything stayed the same. Bought the custom dynamics TSM module that bypasses the OEM security system and Im waiting for it to arrive and see if a miracle happens.

Some additional things you guys might find useful:

-Gas pump sounds when ignition switches on
-Check engine light turns on and off quickly
-Key light turns on after a couple of seconds after ignition
-Tester light comes on when checking all fuses
-Jump starting the starter makes it turn on and turn off almost instantly
-Turn signals don’t function

Thank you so much and I appreciate infinitely the help and advice you guys can send my way

Picked up this 01 DX last June. It had 14" Bitubos, Thunderheader, and a 14" Thrashin MX setup, and a chain drive, T Sport fairing.. otherwise mostly stock.

Since then, I had the motor built (95" Dyno'd at 107hp and 107tq) Mikuni carb, new comp, stator, Barnett clutch. New 13" Legends, LePera Kickflip, 3" shorter risers, and some small details like the derby/timing cover. Just had the front end rebuilt with CCE fork tubes and race tech internals.

I'd say she's about done. Though I am heavily considering a different fairing this winter haha.

Re uploaded with the correct title, I hope not to offend anyone else.

I bought this 2007 superglide in October.

If anyone can help or guide me on a possible fix I have I would greatly appreciate it
2008 Dyna fxdl with a led tail light-
The running light used to work but for some reason has stopped. I have bought the same light and replaced the old one thinking that was the issue but no change. I have checked and replaced all 15amp fuses made sure there is power going to the light etc. one thing I did notice was if I use my foot brake the running light comes on. If I hit my hand brake my brake light comes on made sure to check and even if I push my foot break down once I hit the hand break the light definitely gets brighter. Is there any reason why the running light won’t turn on except when applying the foot brake?

Picked up a stock garage queen off of marketplace in the beginning of spring. Having a ball building and riding this thing. I’ve owned several bikes over the years, but this is my first Harley. I get it now. I’ll never be without one for as long as I ride!

Adding light pods to the crash bar later this week. These things are way brighter than my last junk headlight.

After several hours of sanding, polishing, and buffing. My forks and lower tree look as good as this pic of my upper tree.

While chrome will shine until it gets dirty, aluminum begins to corrode and dull immediately. The trick is to buff the aluminum often. I mean about every time you look at it run a soft, clean rag over it. I keep a worn out athletic sock on hand, but white T-shirts or underwear will work.

During wash & detail you will want to use a cleaner/polish. I am fond of Nevr-Dull by Eagle One, but there are others. But the final and constant buffing do with a clean, dry, soft rag. Your rag should turn black as the shine increases. Change rags as needed.

Looking to get thrashin risers and bars but would need to give up my indicator lights. Anyone got a solution that’s not putting them in the tank?