r/F100

I’m really excited about getting to work on this 300. I really learn best from videos, but I did just get a ford service manual in so I can double check what I’m seeing to see if I’m getting correct information.

The stuff on the bottom of the head is just some lube I needed to wipe off.

Outside of cleanliness is next to godliness, what are some tips and things to watch out for? I know no lube on the backside of the connecting and main bearings.

Here is the project my dad and I have dedicated the past several years to. Pictures are in no particular order and only show a fraction of the work we put into this truck. This 1969 short bed bump was purchased from the original family, and lived its life as a farm truck in Mississippi where it as passed down through 3 generations before being parked under a farm shed. It started as a 240 straight-6 with a 3-speed column shift and a radio, nothing else. We refreshed the original motor with new seals and enough TLC to get it on the road. We ended up tearing it down to the block and taking it to the machine shop, but they weren’t able to salvage it. That’s where the craziness begins. Before you know it, we had the entire truck torn apart with 2 frame rails sitting in front of us. We opted for a full QA1 setup front and rear, so lots of rivets to drill out, c-notch the rear, and cut out the original engine cradle. Brakes were upgraded to Wilwood 6-pistons and sitting on American Racing VN510’s wrapped in Michelin Sport 4S’. Of course, you have to have some rumble under the hood with a little power, so why not go for a 408W stroker? We picked up the complete engine from BluePrint, and the dyno sheet showed ~485hp/525tq and you feel every bit of it throughout the power band. To handle the power, we settled on a Tremec TKX 5-speed close ratio gearbox mated to a Spec Stage 2+ clutch/pressure plate kit. In the rear, a Speedway Motors 3.73 LSD with Quick Performance axels. All wiring was replaced with a new American Autowire harness and the battery was moved behind the bench seat, plenty of space back there once we moved the gas tank to the rear. The entire floor and firewall inside of the cabin was covered with sound descending before we put down the padding and carpet. Everything underneath was sanded, rust encapsulated, and repainted with tractor paint. The exterior is the original Harbor Blue paint, no clear coat, no patina sauce, just lots of hand polishing and buffing. My dad took care of making all the brake lines, and we fabricated the exhaust ourselves using a Jegs builders kit and a few slip joints to make things easier to take apart for maintenance. I’m sure there are things I’ve missed or forgot, this has taken about 5 years working in our garage to make it happen. Link to a few videos below if you want to hear the truck and see a quick driving video. I plan to upload a longer one in the following weeks to go over the build and get some better driving angles. Hope y’all dig the build, I know we sure do!

First Start: https://youtu.be/J1FWEw7YZ4w?si=wi5IagXDeAE-FMGM

Short Cruise: https://youtu.be/HnEfqfVkeNw?si=IP0fmQAgXo2pO7Ws

I'm in the process of doing a partial rebuild on my 351 Cleveland in my 77 F100 Aussie spec, essentially everything but removal of crank and pistons. The engine was locked up due to carbon and a tiny bit of rust in a couple of open cylinders but freed up nicely. I've finished cleaning up and doing the valve seats on one head, and working on the next, timing chain replaced with a good double roller, so it's getting there.

My problem now is that one of the bolts on the rocker cover snapped, so I drilled out the centre of the bolt with a view to using an extractor on it.

Got the extractor into the hole, gave it some lubricant, and started to slowly twist (by hand using a tap and die handle, not via a drill/impact), and ping! Snapped the extractor.

Sooooo..... what's my next option? The extractor has snapped below the rim of the head, so I could try putting a nut over the top and welding it I think, but there is about 1mm of space. Would welding damage the casting of the head given its location? I tried to see if I could drill out the extractor but its hardened and the drill bit didnt even touch it.

It's one of the long edge rocker cover bolts, I'm thinking its likely to leak if I just leave it as it is, and if I'm putting the effort into restoring my baby, I don't really want to just gob on some RTV and send it, I'd definitely like to have it done properly, especially when I bought a bolt kit to replace the old worn bolts!

This truck is a few hours away. Has some work that needs to be done. Not a lot, though.

Description from the seller's listing.

"1969 Ford F-100 Ranger Bumpside

Long Bed. Twin I-beam suspension. Original motor V8 360. New tires with the original Ford hubcaps. Drum brakes may need to be replaced soon (Update: rear brakes replaced, front okay for now). New brake booster. New headlights. New main gas tank (has dual tank. The main tank is new & the one in the cab needs to be replaced if used) I don’t use it. Tint windows, electrical work done (signal lights works, reverse white light not working). Bed liner. Velvet interior with velvet headliner. Automatic transmission. New AC compressor with cold AC. Bluetooth music. Flow exhaust. Haven’t found a windshield guy that’s willing to replace the front as they’re too scared to touch it. Runs and drives great. I drive it on weekends and daily it one or two times a week (nothing long distance yet). "

The current tailgate is wood.

The yellow tailgate (pictured) is the original that comes with it.

What do you think is $19,000 a fair price?

If not, what is your suggested ask?

I’m looking for a different rear end for my 1970 f100, just put a crate engine 302 in it and the rear is going out. Any suggestions?