I’ve got a mk7.5 zetec s with 23k miles, it’s absolutely pristine and I got it for £7500. I don’t think I’ll be able to find an ST in this condition so I was thinking in a few years get it swapped.
Insurance pricing is not an issue because I work in a lawyers firm, even with heavy modifications, I’ve rang up to certify this.
What do you guys think ?
This problem occurs in a 2018 Ford Fiesta with 1.5 TDCI engine.
Today, when checking my car, I noticed a small loss of oil. I don't know exactly why; if anyone has any idea...
The oil level is slightly above normal; I don't know if this may be related to the leak.
I bought the car recently, but the previous owner told me that he had done 15,000 km.
I don't know if this can be related; as I said, I would appreciate any help. Thank you all.
Hi Guys,
Is the Ram Air intake worth the money? Any suggestions on better intakes for the same price range? - Thank you in advance
Car has 92k miles and I made a post a few days ago on what you would do with some cash to the FiST. I decided to wait for the timing belt only because I have about another 10k miles till due. So this is what I picked up for now. I already have an intercooler, radiator, diverter valve, symposer delete, intake and off-road turbo back exhaust. It's on stock suspension right now and it's honestly a little scary above 80mph because of how stiff and bouncy it is.
Next month I'll pick up the timing belt kit, trans fluid, radiator hoses and the other two vibra-tech mounts. Am I missing anything super important in the list I pictured? And besides what I'm getting next month, are there any must haves I should get?
Soooo yeah the blend door thingys did their thing...
First the on from what sounded like the steering column, then the passenger side ish.
So i think 2/3 at least... but now they are quiet but I dont have A/C.... welp its still august... and I'd like to not sweat my berries off.
Is it those? The air coming out isnt cold but its not HOT or hotter than ambient. Do I need to dive into the compressor/refrigerant etc too or would this be a blend door actuator fault response?
Thanks guys!
Any experience with Amazon parts too?
Hi, i was wondering if anyone has experience with the hybrid turbo for a mk7 fiesta st180 from Turbo Rebuild Limited, available on ebay. Im looking for a relatively affordable hybrid, since i dont want to spend €1600+ for just the turbo (s280 for example). Ive looked at the X47R from pumaspeed, but have read mixed opinions om some not working etc.
If someone has a different one they recommend, or know for sure if the x47r is a good buy, i’d love to hear it. Thanks
1st: Front Driver wheel well have a feelable/audible clunk when hitting bumps on the road. Only does it when its ONLY the front driver wheel. It's both wheels hit the say speed bump, the noise doesnt seem to happen. Any thoughts? Strut was replace last year with quikstrut. Does the strut mount get replaced with the quikstrut? My FIL has all my Jacks under our project car so all I have in a simple floor jack which I don't wanna be moving shit t9 try and reproduce the noise while under it with just a floor jack.
2nd: While under the car looking for cause of said clunk I looked at my RMM, it seems that it is twisted? I haven't looked a a RMM other than pictures online. Is it supposed to have a slight twist to it. If not, how major of a problem is this? I know RMM is stupid eash to swap, how difficult are the other mounts to do, if i wanted to just replace all of them.
3rd: I am switching to the Koni Orange Struts, but my mechanic who im doing it with says that I should probably replace my springs as they look "tired" but I can't find OEM ST springs for sale anywhere, not even RockAuto. I can't lower the car because I already scrap in my driveway on stock ride height unless I am going super slow or backing in.
4th: Front strut blew last year (Driver hence replaced), dented my front fender outwards. 4.5in sized dent and it shifted my entire panel just slightly. Is this too big to take to a shop to try and have it reshaped, and if so where could I buy a fender (painted), to just swap in.
Recently just paid off the car, so looking into doing modifications that will increase the longevity (145k miles), but also want it to look nice. Any tips or recommendations. Repainting the back fenders this week, and just ordered the old Focus SVT 10 spoke Rims that im getting powder coated.
Currently have Injen Exhuast and HAI Intake, fatter tires on stock rims and ride height. Lmk thanks guys. Best car community out there.
what's the deal with oil changes on st180s? I heard people say to change oil every 6,7,8,9 thousand kilometers if not the engine is going to blow.
when should oil be changed? ford says 10k if I'm not mistaken
I'm losing brake fluid somewhere. Clutch master and slave have both been replaced in the last year or two. 2019 with 57k. Brake master looks clean but going to pull it back to make sure its not leaking into the booster. ABS module is dry, calipers are dry. Anywhere else im not thinking of I can check? I work in a shop and have inspected everywhere and can not find a drop of fluid leaking.
Not exactly a breeze to install, and not exactly cheap, but I love it. Really makes it feel like a purpose built race car
Alright y'all I've had my RT615k+s for 2 years and 9000 miles... Tread is at 4/32 in the front (seen here) and 3/32 in the rear. SoCal is due for a very wet winter. New wheels and tires would cost me two grand....but I imagine I should pull the trigger soon? Probably worth putting the money forth to be safe than sorry. Thinking 205/45/16 Conti ECS02 with 16x8 Dekagrams. I would go 205/50 but I want to save as much unsprung weight as possible. Plus I love Continental tires.
I installed the cp-e xFlex a few years ago and would like to change to the Vibra-Technics mount. I vaguely recall that the cp-e mounted using its own bracket, so the OEM bracket was removed. When I install the Vibra-technics RMM, will I need any parts besides the RMM and bracket? All I have are the parts in the pic--am I missing any brackets or bolts/nuts? Thanks!
Hey guys I'm adjusting my mk7's handbrake. Have the interior apart now.
How many clicks does your mk7 do and when does it start to engage?
Following the Ford's manual it tells me to tighten the cable until the distance between the handbrake arm on the caliper and the stop is within 1mm but at that point I'd need around 10 clicks which is too much for me so I'd rather not. At around 3-4mm it'll do about 7 clicks, and at 3 clicks it's starting the engage
I've been dreading doing a slave cylinder or the timing belt but man you get a few pieces out and these cars are dead simple, looks like they will be simple jobs.. Trans mount took me a half hour start to finish. 10 years on and I still love this car.
The exhaust valve spring on my Milltek exhaust appears to have broken. I was wondering if anyone might know if a replacement part is available from Milltek or Ford, and perhaps if you have the relevant part numbers?
Had a busy past two days installing vibra technics full motor mount set, whoosh short shifter, and whoosh V2 intercooler. Feels like such a different car and is so worth all the work! I ended up finding my coolant tank having a tiny leak at the bottom and noticed my axel seals starting to leak too 🫠 Time to see if I can handle doing the seals on my own or taking it in to a shop.
I've replaced the gasket twice on the return line and it continues to leak. Anyone have a solution for this? It's seeping out at the mating surface.
Last week I replaced my front struts (successfully) and began on the rears. I had my rears done by a shop last time, and it’s safe to say the over-torqued the upper bolts way too much. Needless to say, after 60k miles, the bolt heads rusted a lot and got rounded on my attempts to remove them.
I tried hammering on an extractor socket, spraying penetrating fluid multiple times, and even torching them with MAP gas. All that happened was more rounding. I know this was an over-torque issue because I got good grip from the extractor socket, and when using a breaker bar they still rounded instead of backing out.
What can I try next? I have an appointment with a shop next week to see if they can get it, but maybe y’all have a better idea to save me a trip and some money. I’ve considered cutting out the weld nuts on the inside and replacing them with regular nuts, but I don’t want irreversible damage if possible. TIA