hello! i bought the 10m Omniglow Lightstrip from Philips Hue in Germany and I'm setting them up tomorrow. the plan is to cut the wall adaptor and attach it to a female barrel plug connector. i bought some 72W adaptors to plug into the female barrel port. does anyone know if that setup would have any issues. anyone done anything similar? i have a bridge pro from the US. any region locks i gotta worry about? thanks!
Didn't see any real A/B comparisons while I was researching. Other than a guy who cut his existing non-hue led can adapter to fit a slim's hookup, so I knew the electrical hookup could easily be done as a mad Frankenstein experiment.
These are the 5/6 inch can lights:1200 lumen 15w for the slim on the left vs 1100 lumen 13w for the retrofit that uses the bulb socket adapter on the right.
Bugged me that the face designs are different. Started off with the retrofits then went with the slims. Slims MIGHT fit in your cans depending on the can. My can was just a millimeter or so too small, so I ended up having to remove the can. Kinda a pita but I had easy access in my attic. Also, the slims are just a hair narrower than the retros, so you have even less wiggle room to hide any ceiling imperfections that were under the trim of your existing can lights.
Was the change up to the slim for imo a cleaner look while it's off worth it? Oh heck no. Did it make any measurable difference in light scenes? Oh heck no. Was I glad I at least tried it out and satisfied my curiosity? You betcha!
Yes, I know the slims are kinda a downgrade, as a true recessed light is the best to avoid glare, but these are just for patio entertainment duty, so I was okay with experimenting.
I think I’ve done the majority of the setup correctly. How do I connect the sync box to when I just want to passively watch tv and not have the box connect to a specific device like the PS5 or Switch? I must be missing something. Do I plug in another HDMI to one of the open ports on the sync box and connect that to an open port on the tv? I feel like that doesn’t make sense since the box is already connected to the tv. Sorry this is such a dumb question if it is one.
I had posted this in r/hometheater, but I thought the Hue community might find it interesting:
Here is my completed living room setup. It features a Hue Play HDMI sync box 8K maximum of 10 lights, Atmos audio, digital picture frames, and a hidden 150" drop down projector.
Here's a video showcasing how it all comes together.
Gear:
Lighting
Audio
Projector
Art Frames
Other
Personally I like Soho Fuschia Frost, Emerald Flutter, Cancun, and of course default and custom scenes.
Setup my parents house. Custom Scene.
-2 Amarants (doorstep wall washing on each side)
-Flux Outdoor strip in garden
-A19 Essentials Bulb in fixture
All is setup with the outdoor motion sensor as well.
Flux strip is very bright, as you can see it illuminates the second story. Needed something the gardener won't knock, it's positioned in the back behind the plants against the wall.
Look, I've probably watched over a dozen matches with it now and I've gotten used to how it works. I'll admit for the first few games there were some kinks to sort out, but I've had an absolute blast with it and it's had me watching more football than I ever imagined.
It’s an 8/10 experience for me, and a pretty great launch for something so incredibly hard to execute perfectly.
I understand these things can't be perfect. When I see criticisms like "did anyone test this?", I can't help but feel sympathetic to the devs. Obviously it was tested, but there are so many variables at play here that can make the end-user experience slightly unreliable the first couple times you try it. It just requires each user to understand how the tech works under the hood.
Anyone who's set it up recognizes that the "time matching" requires some finesse. I imagine the "real-time" third-party API (my assumption in how it works, sorry if I'm wrong) that's being hit for in-game action has some latency that must be dialed in by the end-user. There's about a 5–10 second discrepancy, but I've found that just matching it manually with the in-game action can be quick once you know what you're doing.
That said, making this synchronization the responsibility of the user might be too much to ask for a more casual audience. It's a bit more of a "DIY-esque" ask for a premium product audience like Hue customers.
Ultimately, there is so much promise in this feature and I would hate to see it go away just because of some nitpicky negative feedback. I truly hope the usage metrics indicate that there is promise here, because I would love to see this expanded to other sports moving forward, and even maybe a "playback" experience if you catch up on games after the fact.
Devs, if you're reading this: Know that you have a fan here. Thank you for trying something cool and new.
The A19 bulbs look objectively (or maybe not so objectively)...bad in clear housings. The Hue LightGuide line of course would look fantastic, but c'mon.. the price per bulb is absolutely unacceptable. 5 bucks for a can of Krylon Frosted Glass Spray with proper spraying techniques and the finished product ends up looking clean as hell.
Was playing around with my lights as one with a Hue often does. Love how a small relocation adds visual complexity to the corners of the room. FYI The monstera's primary light source is its bulb affixed to a timer.
I'm having issues setting up my new installation of 30 six inch and 7 four inch canless down lights.
I have a new Bridge Pro, which was just unboxed and added to my account.
The drywall isn't up, so I'm scanning the codes on the power boxes to try to add the new devices. The lights are on, but it won't connect to the lights.
So far I've added 3 four inch lights, and only 1 six inch light.
Is there some sort of troubleshooting trick I should be doing? It seems like this should be way easier than it is.
Google Pixel 8 Pro. Bridge Pro software version is 1.78.2071401000. Zigbee channel was 25, but is now 11 after trying to switch channels.
Does it with the TV on or off. Unplugging "fixed" it a month or so ago but it's back and nothing is fixing it now (reset, cables etc)
Hi there
I have a Hue Bridge v2 and some ceiling lights already installed. Now I use the remote which sticks at the wall of each room to control the lights or I use the app. I would basically love to use the already existing switch, which is actually constantly on to power the ceiling hue lamp. Unfortunately, the switch ist combined with a socket:
Is there any way, either Hue or Shelly, to get this working, that I can use the existing switch?
Thanks in advance
TiRohn
I’ve been trying to buy the white Hue Twilight lamp from Amazon since January. It’s a $300 lamp, but Amazon keeps shipping me Hue Solo LED light strips instead, which are about $60.
This has happened across multiple orders and replacements. Each time, the Hue Solo LED light strips appear to be stickered with Hue Twilight lamp barcodes, which is likely why Amazon keeps receiving, storing, and shipping them as the wrong product.
I contacted Hue several times back in January through Facebook, their website, and by phone, but nobody seemed especially concerned because the orders were through Amazon — shipped and sold by Amazon, not a third party.
Amazon keeps saying they’ll “flag the inventory,” but I doubt that ever actually happens.
So this week 5 months later, I tried ordering again, and the exact same issue happened. I received two Hue Solo LED light strips stickered with Hue Twilight lamp barcodes instead of the Hue Twilight lamps I ordered.
This appears to be an ongoing labeling or inventory issue that still has not been fixed five months into the year.
Fair warning: check the contents of your boxes promptly after receiving them.
The maddening saga continues. I’m now 0 for 6 on order attempts.
I was stupid and twisted this off instead of the bulb base. Will super glue work well enough? This wasn’t a cheap one! 😭
Looking for suggestions for the best led strip light in my kitchen...
Recently purchased the Hue led strip light not even thinking about the reflection of the individual leds on the stainless steel counter. Would the omniglow be better for this space?
I've been building RaceRGB for over a year in my free time. I wanted to be able to click a button, connect my lights and sit on the couch with a beer and have a more immersive experience watching F1 live using my HUE lights.
I've been adding more features for HUE over the past few months, including:
- Qualifying mode, connect 3 lights to each sector and follow your favourite driver during qualifying (or sprint qualifying)
- Lead change, team colours light up and flash when the lead changes in a race, or sprint
- Personalized Reactions, choose exactly how your lights respond to each event (red flag, safety car, fastest lap, and more)
- Windows Desktop app, which allows HUE to be connected via LAN for quick calls.
- Multiviewer integration, this can be used live or to watch historical races
All the existing features still remain: Cloud connection to run via browser, broadcast delay, light management and more!
If you're interested in giving it a spin for this weekend's race, you get a whole race weekend free trial.
https://reddit.com/link/1uldcd3/video/6shwob8vasah1/player
I have the V4 lightstrip and a dimmer switch. (No bridge) it has worked for a long time ive replaced the light strip once, compatible and switch worked with new one.
All of a sudden one of my bartenders bumped into it and now the light wont come on. The dimmer switch remote connects, but when i press the power button its a quick flash of green on the remote and it’s unresponsive to the light. I changed the battery in the remote which didnt do anything. Not really sure where to go from here
