
Advice on Face
Hello, I'm struggling to get the face and skin all one color, it seems to be patchy between brown and white. Do you have any advice? I was doing color match.

Hello, I'm struggling to get the face and skin all one color, it seems to be patchy between brown and white. Do you have any advice? I was doing color match.
Badges and trophies I modeled and printed for this past weekends Inked Circus London 2026 stop of the tour. Artwork by the multi-award winning and super talented Vicky Miao (IG: vicky_826tattoo). 8 color, 22 color swaps, 5.5mm thick, no ironing, bambu p1s.
Am I doing something wrong? Or do i have unrealistic expectations?
Feedback is welcome!
still missing a plate but I think I like it like that
The latest addition to my wall of ChromaLink Hueforges! Credit to SuperSeaSlug for developing the Chromalink system.
Files available on MakerWorld if you'd like to print your own: https://makerworld.com/en/models/3181883-cosmic-whale-hueforge-chromalink-compatible#profileId-3598861
The describe text is quite robust which is fine but I like just copying and pasting the swap instructions when I upload files to Maker World. The TD is listed with the hex code paragraph and I don't like added so much to my description and it's a pain to hand type when I want to just copy, paste, and upload. Can it also be added at the very end of the swap instructions? Thanks!
Examples
At layer #7 (0.64mm) swap to BambuLab Basic Pumpkin Orange - TD 5.5
At layer #7 (0.64mm) swap to BambuLab Basic Pumpkin Orange (TD 5.5)
Introducing the Ukulele of Doom! Some say it's cursed. Others claim it's a talisman to ward off the damned. Which is true? Print one for yourself and find out!
Download the files from Makerworld and print your own Ukulele of Doom for free!
https://makerworld.com/en/models/3169417-the-ukulele-of-doom#profileId-3583098
I've been printing a slew of maps over the past few months, and I finally build up a portfolio of the 2D Zelda maps. For the nostalgic gamer, hopefully these bring some nice memories :)
Maps:
Legend of Zelda 1 - 10x7 inches, 6 colors, 29 layers
The Adventure of Link - 10x7 inches, 7 colors, 34 layers
A Link to the Past Light World - 8x8 inches, 7 colors, 38 layers
A Link to the Past Dark World - 8x8 inches, 8 colors, 47 layers
Link's Awakening - 8x8 inches, 8 colors, 44 layers
Oracle of Ages (Past) - 8x8 inches, 7 colors, 48 layers
Oracle of Ages (Present) - 8x8 inches, 8 colors, 40 layers
Oracle of Seasons - 8x8 inches, 8 colors, 44 layers
The Minish Cap - 8x8 inches, 8 colors, 58 layers
For those with a 3D Printer, I offer these for free on my MakerWorld! If anyone wants to purchase, I also offer them on my Etsy. Both accounts are linked in my profile!
Just some ideas that I have been playing around with. comic strip backgrounds and old school game title screen , thought?
Just got done moving. Finally got everything set up and printing out some new new
Ive mainly focused on specific modes within hueforge, but a lot of people still dont know how to even change to different mesh modes. So in this I went to the very basics of the UI
Still starting out, learning as I go. Think I used 6 colors on this one
I love this so much. Original art form Art of Supershinobi
I made it 4 by 4 ass large as I could on my p1p bead. I uploaded it to maker world so you can enjoy it as much ass I do.
Its so cool to just print posters.
Link makerworld: https://makerworld.com/en/models/3147916-spirited-away-hueforge-poster#profileId-3555396
I have used krita for image editing because it is open source and can provide everything that can be recommended only optimizes beforehand
maybe its beter yellow to Change vs magenta ?
You have good links. I've had a Hueforge for two years and I still haven't done a good print. 😒 Where can I learn?
I kept running into the same problem whenever I wanted to display a HueForge. A lot of the available frames have huge kickstands on the back, while some of the separate stands take up more desk space and filament than the actual print really needs.
So I finally made my own.
The stand has a small 40 x 51 mm footprint, and the rear brace is removable so it can print faster and pack away easily. I also made optional frames for 200 x 200, 150 x 200, and 100 x 200 HueForges, so I can use the same compact display setup across different sizes.
--EDIT--
Added a 150x150 frame as well for my A1 Mini family.
The last few pictures are some of my recent prints I've done: Sephiroth, Ghostface, and Joker from Persona 5. I am really happy with how clean everything looks without a giant stand taking over the shelf.
I uploaded the stand and frames to MakerWorld too, in case anyone else has been looking for something smaller and simpler:
Display Stand
Sephiroth
Ghostface
Joker
Would love to know what you all think, especially if there are any other HueForge sizes you would want frames for.
Would you guys recommend the .4 nozzle at .08 layer height or the .25 nozzle at .08. Prints are faster with the .4 but I get a lot of weird layer lines. Havent tried the .25 but I would assume its going to be much slower. At the end of the day though, would there be a difference even if the layer heights are the same?