r/IS300

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Need help identifying and valuing this grill. I can’t find any listings online or sold prices. I want to know what’s a fair market value and if it’s OEM or aftermarket.

So I’ve had my is300 for about a month. Never drove manual mode idk why today I tried it and felt like the shifting felt delayed. Was wondering if my trans maybe has a problem ? Seems to shift fine in auto and when I had bought the car previous owner said he’d changed the transmission fluid not too long ago. I’ve uploaded two videos one in manual and one in auto.

Just installed fluidampr and with engine running sounds off to me.

About a year and few months ago I installed FIGS mega refresh kit with their OE sway bar links along with BC coilovers and Eibach sway bars and have only really been driving as a daily.
I'm just curious if anyone else has had their front endlinks from FIGs snap and what other recommendations you guys have.
I'll give the benefit of the doubt that SoCal roads n freeways suck ass but idk.

I just bought an 99 altezza and replaced it with the cluster with tach in the center but there is no illumination.
I already tried moving pin 1 to pin 10 but that didn’t make a difference.
Can’t find anyone saying how they fixed this for the altezza, wiring must be different than the is300.
Anyone know the answer?

And valve cover is dupli color engine enamel cast coat iron, pretty dang close to is300 OEM grey

2001 Lexus IS 300, 188,500 miles.

Everything works and totally stock, clean title in hand. Reliable 2JZ 3.0L 6 cylinder with Automatic Transmission, LSD and smooth RWD performance.
It has power windows, power locks, power mirrors, cruise control, power seats, leather seats, steering wheel tilt, power slide and tilt moonroof, dual front airbags, very cold A.C., newish tires, alternator and battery installed, and factory HID Zenon headlights. fog lights, OEM five spoke 17 inch rims, 2 sets of Lexus keys. Clear coat is coming off paint.

All stock, adult driver, no rust, no sticky dash, clean title, ready to smog, no check engine lights, etc .. firm on 4200 no Joy rides.

Anyone have any sound clips of the PHR 4” exhaust. Can’t find any on YouTube. PFA

Still need to work on the inner flutes of the five spokes, but damn. 🥹

Does anyone know why my E brake light is doing this? It’s usually just been happening on up and down downhill however it’s also been happening on flats.

Hi, all. I have these rear license plate light housings and trunk trim piece that have certainly seen better days.

Does anyone have the part numbers and know the best way to get new ones? Most of the search results showed pre owned ones, and figured I’d ask if anyone has done a similar replacement with new parts.

If there aren’t new parts, should I just get preowned and clean them up? Thanks!

Any idea what this could be? Ball joints were replaced a few months ago, so were coilovers. Ball joints could have been over tightened. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Just did spark plug, pcv valve and valve gasket change now I’m hearing this noise that randomly came on a few minutes after I started the car, anyone have any idea what it could be? I also cracked the vacuum switching valve hose #3 17343 so I taped it up for now till another one comes In. Any help is greatly appreciated!

So I’ve had this car for a few years never had any real issues besides the notorious bank two sensor two o2 sensor code, which doesn’t really affect anything besides cat efficiency. However, one night after washing my engine bay the car started sputtering and misfiring. I wrote this off as water in the spark plug wells, and I let it idle and dry out and then it was OK. Fast forward a few weeks the problem returns, but I know there’s not water in there. I checked everything, however I did notice that I had a pretty nasty valve cover leak which I thought maybe that’s probably why the spark plugs are not doing their job because they’re covered in oil so recently I replaced the valve cover gaskets and clean the spark plugs and all the ignition coils and wires Make sure there’s no problems connect all the connectors properly and even when I hooked up a scan tool before I did the repair there was no misfire data for anything. I did have a mass airflow sensor intake air temp code, which I then fixed but from now there’s no codes besides the O2 sensor code so I’m assuming maybe there’s possibly a problem with my fuel system and I need to clean it out. as far as I’ve owned it I’ve never done anything with the fuel system. I don’t think the previous owner did as well. The car has about 263,000 miles I’ve owned it since 220,000. Now for modifications, I’ve done to the car. I’ve only done headers to the engine, and the car is manual swapped, which I know on its own brings different performance problems if you don’t tune the car properly which it did before with a little bit of lag, but it didn’t sputter now I do plan to get the car tuned, but I don’t believe this is the root of the problem because it’s not all the time. the car will misfire under load like when I let out the clutch and give it gas to get up to speed if I give enough throttle. sometimes it’s not as bad sometimes it is and it flutters. if I try to rev match it revs Slowly when I idle it only does it when it’s hot or there’s a load on the engine or the AC is on so if you guys could help me out if anybody else has had this problem, it’s bugging me because this car’s never done this and I love this car too much to have this problem

2003 lexus is300
241k miles
auto

service history:
- starter never replaced (factory, 2003)
- alternator (2020, 150k miles, aftermarket)
- battery replaced 03/2024 and had corrosion, replaced again 04/2024 (Autozone brand)
- battery replaced 04/2026, terminals cleaned (Costco/Interstate battery) 216k miles

What could this sound be? I tried starting it a second time and it chugged/struggled to start. Tried a third time and it started like normal.

I let the car sit over the weekend and it fully died (lights were dim/wasn’t locking) and did a jump start and it started perfectly fine.
Took battery to auto parts store and did an at-home battery test and it failed both tests.
Costco refused to replace my battery because it “passed” their battery test, reading at 600/700 amps. I ended up getting a refund and I want to buy an OEM battery.
Since this issue has happened multiple times shortly after replacing the battery, am I just having bad luck with aftermarket batteries? Battery terminals look fine/no corrosion buildup or holes visible.
Or is this indicative of underlying electrical issues, bad aftermarket alternator or failing starter?

I was reinstalling my transmission pan with new fipg and these 2 bolts pictured became a righty loosey. Am i screwed?