Looking at a '20 SE with just over 100k miles. It's listed as a "one owner" vehicle, and based on the adhesive left on the car, it looks like it was a dealer loaner vehicle. Runs and sounds fine. My questions is, should I bother changing the reduction gearbox oil? Assuming it wasn't ever done, what's the point after 100k mi?
Long shot om het hier te posten, maar wie weet hebben we een ervaringsdeskundige:
Ik had een ritje (100km) vandaag waarbij de auto weinig licht blies in het interieur. Op een gegeven moment maar van auto af gegaan en zelf aan de knoppen: maximaal blazen, AC aan/uit had geen verschil, op bovenste roosters ingesteld maar voor mijn gevoel kwam er minder lucht uit dan normaal op maximaal zou komen. Dit kan nu ook natuurlijk een verkeerd gevoel zijn, maar in elk geval werd de auto niet aangenaam koel bij 24 graden buiten. Een temperatuur die ik normaal zonder AC of rond de 21-22 zet als de zon er op schijnt. Zelfs alles op maximaal en 15 graden zakte de temp in de auto niet.
Ik heb net het interieur filter er uit gehad, deze gaat morgen/overmorgen vervangen worden maar voor nu even doorgeblazen met de compressor. Luchtstroom zonder filter was iets meer (met klepje dicht) maar niet waarvan ik dacht dit heeft het opgelost.
De AC verdamper is vorig jaar zomer vervangen.
Twee vragen:
Hoe loopt de luchtstroom in deze auto? Waar zou eventueel een blokkade kunnen zitten?
Op de bijgevoegde foto (Vanaf voorkant van de auto linksachter tegen de passagierszijde aan) zie ik wat ik hoop AC condenswater is maar ik vind het een rare plek waar het vandaan komt, normaal verwacht ik dit lager in de auto zien druipen. Hebben jullie dit ook vanaf daar of loopt hier ook KVS doorheen en lekt dit?
I was quoted £2k+ by a couple of specialists, which just wasn’t viable for an old 28kWh - but I love the car and I really couldn’t afford to just chuck it in the bin anyway. I had a garage take the motor out and then worked with someone who is very familiar with changing bearings on industrial motors (+ had all the tools!) to do the work ourselves.
The process wasn’t too bad but it definitely needed two people and we would have benefited massively from a hoist to help get the rotor out.
For anyone who wants to do this themselves, the two main sources of info I used for this were a YT video: https://youtu.be/n8tuOEz3MJI and the document linked here: https://www.ioniqforum.com/threads/diy-guide-drive-motor-bearing-replacement-ioniq-28kwh.55574/
Hi all,
I've had an Ioniq 38kwh for a month now (first ev) and have thought the brakes need to be pressed quite hard if the car needs to be stopped quickly but just put it down to the regen brake blending.
The discs are in good condition and I make a point to use the brakes to keep them clean.
Today however I noticed I can push the pedal all the way to the floor when stationary. I'm fairly certain this isn't normal but has anyone else experienced this?
I going to buy an Ioniq 38 as my first EV, and first car, so quite excited to get one.
I'm regularly checking my local used market, and I have seen a few cars go up with more than 100k km. on the clock, as well as a few with more than 150k. they are being listed at much lower prices, but a couple of them still has more than 95% capacity left stated on the add, which is quite nice.
What would you advice to be looking out for on the 38 when they get above 100k?
There is a 2020 Ioniq Electric Limited trim in my area with 55k miles for sale for 12k. Assuming everything checks out mechanically and electrically is that a good price?
Hey all.
I'm going to look at a 2018 28kwh Ioniq tonight. It will hopefully be my first EV which I'm excited about.
It's a private seller.
Lots of green flags so far:
full service history from Hyundai main dealers,
Finance check is clear,
2 owners,
Current owner has it 8 years,
No visible damage in the photos,
200km average range (approx 125 miles),
177k km odometer (110k miles)
Very good price for where I am.
I'm bringing an ODB reader and my father in law is mechanically minded so he's going to check for corrosion etc.
Is there anything else I should be looking out for?
Update: Thanks for all the advice. Went to view it last night and bought it. Physically/mechanically it was in great shape. Well looked after and properly serviced regularly. Car Scanner checks all turned out good. SOH of 100% (I know about the buffer, but still), Can't remember all the stats I checked but I had a list with me of what to look for and it surpassed all of them. Charged with granny charger overnight. Drove 40km to work this morning and battery went down 16%. Hoping I'll overnight charge 4 or 5 times a week and that'll do me.
Hey everyone,
I’m having a frustrating issue with the Electronic Parking Brake (EPB) on my 2020 Hyundai Ioniq.
The diagnostic scanner is throwing a code for an "Open Circuit" on the rear right EPB actuator.
Here is the catch: the issue is intermittent.
Sometimes the error disappears on its own, and both parking brakes work completely fine.
A short while later, the warning light comes back on.
What I've checked so far:
I inspected the wiring harness going to the rear right caliper. I wiggled and twisted the cables to see if I could trigger/fix the fault or find a visible break, but visually, everything looks intact and I couldn't find any obvious damage.
Hey folks,
I have a Ioniq facelift from 2022 and Inam looking for a storage solution for the huge space in the middle front (not the center console!).
I can remember that someone posted a box or something, but I cant find anything in the net!
Amy help is appreciated!
Thanks!
I am picking up my used but new to me car on Friday.
Coming out of a 2009 Mitsubishi Eclipse GT, I honestly plan on driving this in sport mode as aggressively as possible most of the time.
Efficiency isn't much concern for me since I charge at work and recoup my daily trip and have a charging station 2 blocks from my house for any other needs.
I was curious about modifications to improve the handling/stability/longevity of abusing the car as frequently as possible.
I'm not much of a mechanically inclined car guy. I enjoy cars and go-fast-quick but, a lot of the technical and mechanical side is foreign to me.
Anyone else out there drive this thing like they stole it basically 24/7?
Curious to see experiences and can't wait to join the club friday! It came out to almost what I pay for my eclipse plus the premium gas monthly...why not get a 17 year newer luxury car that is even more car than the eclipse?
Also grateful that the turning radius of the eclipse trained me for this car. I read all over about this feeling like a boat, but the eclipse is even wider (40ft) so it'll drive like a dream
Reminds me of dad's old Monte carlo SS in the steering wheel and feel
Hey. We've had this piece of (2021, 38kWh) Korean tech now for about 9 months, and I've planned to do my first measured 10%-100% slow charge starting tonight. Just to see if the battery is still what it should be.
The charger is quite granny-ish, 240v 8A, so delivering about 2.1kW of power. I do this via an app that tracks the amount of power. (I also have the myHyundai app, but haven't used it much - is there a way to see the charged amount in it?)
The weather is a balmy 18Cº, the car is basically in an open, shaded garage. What should I expect to be the amount of power loss in the charge when I calculate the SoH?
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