r/JeepTJ

Pulling the OEM plastic rocker guards off my ‘98 Sahara in preparation of installing rock sliders. I was expecting to find some rust behind here, as it’s the perfect place for dirt & water to collect, so I was not too surprised to find two 7-8 inch long cancer spots almost in identical spots on each side of the tub. Cut them out and will be welding in a new plate. After the new plate I’ll put some rust converter or wool wax on. Thankfully the new rock sliders will cover all this, so no one will know. Thought I would post this process on here, for anyone interested.

First step would be to regear my differentials because I’m on stock gears and this bitch is sluggish, should I look for a kit or find a used dana44 on marketplace. Next would be a big brake kit, would I be better off doing a rear disc conversion before that? And what would be my best bet for reinforced driveshaft and axels? Should I bother doing lockers at the same time while it’s apart? And do I need a long arm kit or something to help the steering? Will the bigger tires put a lot of stress on the trans if my diffs are geared correctly? Thanks guys lmk
Edit: forgot to mention it’s my daily aswell

21 years later and I still get a kick out of driving my Rubicon.

This summer is looking to be a good one, that is if gas prices go back down….

1998 Jeep Wrangler • 4.0L • Automatic • 172,500 miles

VIN: 1J4FY49S9WP715741

Solid daily‑driver TJ with a clean, rust‑free frame and a ton of recent maintenance. Runs great, drives great, and has had all the big-ticket items refreshed. Only selling because I need something more practical for the family.

7,000 miles ago: I chased down a misfire from a loose distributor rotor and refreshed the entire ignition/cooling system — new distributor, cap, rotor, plug wires, ignition coil, spark plugs, injectors, throttle body cleaned, Big 7 wiring kit with grounds checked, new battery, and a coolant flush with a new water pump.

O2 sensor/exhaust issue: The P0132 code started before the oil pan job, and since the exhaust had to come off anyway, I replaced everything while it was out — new downpipe, new catalytic converter, new upstream and downstream O2 sensors, and a Flowmaster 44. The upstream O2 sits at a normal 1.0V for these Jeeps; the CEL only comes back because of a momentary voltage spike. I have a video showing steady state. 1.0V across the sensor.

Oil pan job (2,000 miles ago): New oil pan and gasket, which fixed what looked like an RMS leak.

Fuel pump: Replaced around the same time while diagnosing the fuel‑rail priming issue. It helped but didn’t fully eliminate it.

Condition: Runs and shifts great, frame is clean with no rust or rust‑through, a few cosmetic blemishes, and two tiny windshield chips.

Quirks: About 1 out of 30–40 starts, the fuel rail doesn’t hold pressure and you turn the key a couple times to prime it.

The P0132 code returns occasionally due to a brief voltage fluctuation, but all related parts are new and it doesn’t affect drivability.

Asking $8500 right now in Alabama

I see it needs see it needs some work, but that still seems awfully low. I feel like I’m missing something.

New to me!!!

Random active misfire 😔 gonna throw a new coil rail at it this time see what happens.

2005 Jeep wrangler TJ
2027 pa inspection
79k miles
6 speed manual transmission
4.0 Inline 6
2 previous owners
No accidents
New alternator
New serpentine belt
New water pump
New battery
New tensioner bracket for alternator
New drums, brakes, and E brake system
Recent alignment done
Only has surface rust
Runs and drives
Did cut off the muffler..
Asking 15k

Need something more practical for when I head to college, fun car easy to work on just been replacing some of the old parts to keep it up to date. I’m in the Hershey/harrisburg area in PA. Pm me for questions!