My old headset died and needed a new one.
Been looking around and i bought the Astro A50.
Really hope I enjoy it as much as I did my old one.
Only thing I really need are the leather ear cups.
Just found out the Gen4 mod kit fits.
There is a game, Alaskan Road Truckers where GHub is required to be installed regardless of your wheel brand. What is interesting is this did detect my Moza r5 wheel and peripherals and let me map the buttons
"Getting your steering wheel set up correctly with Alaskan Road Truckers will require a few simple steps.
No matter which steering wheel you use, you will need to download and install the Logitech G-Hub application[www.logitechg.com\]. If this is already installed, please ensure you have the latest update for it."
I am curious if this is something the developers coded to work like this, or if Ghub always works like this?
For example, bus simulator 21 doesn't work with my wheel (i can map it but no ffb). Would there be a way to detes my wheel in a similar way so I can have ffb?
As the title says, does anyone know how to set [Double Click] into the on-board memory.
When set the on board memory, only this settings on mouse is not working, the rest of the settings works fine.
I just got the logitech X2 Pro and it’s been really fun, but any time i’m playing a shooter, wired or not, my mouse will randomly jump down or up and mess me up and it’s the most infuriating thing of all time. i’m seriously considering getting rid of it. it happens every other time i try to kill someone. i play on a desk made out of carbon fiber which idk if that’s like playing a factor but it is clean and i wipe off the mouse regularly. wtf is going on??
I recently bought a used Logitech G29 that came with this power adapter. 22v 430ma
When I tested it, I noticed several problems:
- Sometimes the wheel suddenly stops working and restarts by itself.
- The steering wheel occasionally loses its center position.
- The force feedback (FFB) is very weak.
When I reduced the FFB strength to 50%, the wheel started working much better, although I'm not sure if the power adapter is causing these issues.
Could the power adapter be the problem?
Please need helppppppppp
I ordered a Logitech G Pro X Superlight 2 from Amazon for $179.99 + tax, expecting a brand new mouse.
When the first package arrived, I immediately noticed the box had clearly been opened before. It looked like a returned or used item. Then after opening it, I found out the mouse inside wasn’t even the Superlight 2 — it was the first-generation G Pro X Superlight.
At that point I was already furious, so I contacted Amazon customer service. To be fair, the rep was polite and quickly arranged an expedited replacement, which made me think the issue would be resolved right away.
But then the free replacement showed up the very next day, and somehow it was even worse.
The second one was also clearly used, and this time the signs of wear were even more obvious than the first one. So now I’ve paid full price for a “new” Superlight 2, and Amazon has managed to send me used junk twice in a row.
I honestly don’t understand how this even happens, especially for a product at this price point. One mistake is already bad enough, but sending a second used item right after the first screw-up is ridiculous. They gave me returnless refund but, man, I'm so done with Amazon
Has anyone else had Amazon do this with gaming peripherals?
Hi everyone,
I'm using a Logitech G102 LIGHTSYNC on Fedora 44 GNOME (Wayland).
I'm trying to map the two side buttons to keyboard keys 9 and 0 for a game.
Here's the weird part:
ratbagctl reports:
Button: 3 is mapped to macro '↓KEY_LEFTALT ↕KEY_9 ↑KEY_LEFTALT'
Button: 4 is mapped to macro '↓KEY_LEFTCTRL ↓KEY_LEFTALT ↕KEY_0 ↑KEY_LEFTCTRL ↑KEY_LEFTALT'
evtest also confirms the mouse is actually sending:
For button 3:
KEY_LEFTALT
KEY_9
For button 4:
KEY_LEFTCTRL
KEY_LEFTALT
KEY_0
Because of this, pressing the side button while gaming opens GNOME's window menu (Alt+Space interactions) and triggers shortcuts instead of acting like a plain 9/0 key.
Things I've already tried:
xev, evtest, and ratbagctl.What's confusing is that G HUB displayed the bindings as just 9 and 0, while ratbagctl reports macros containing Alt/Ctrl modifiers.
Has anyone seen this with the G102 LIGHTSYNC?
Is this:
libratbag parsing bug?Any ideas would be appreciated.
Fedora 44
GNOME (Wayland)
Piper 0.8
libratbag-ratbagd 0.18
Mouse: Logitech G102 LIGHTSYNC
After i deleted g hub n reseted to defaults (2)
As you can see, the orange switch seems to be locked down place on the left click. How can i resolve this ?
Thank you
Update : Was able to get a replacement through Logitech support. It should arrive soon !
I just bought my first upgrade in maybe 16 years, from a G27 to an RS50 PS/PC version. With the current deals and code Kireth I got it for $498.49 before taxes. I feel from the prices I've seen for used ones on ebay and other places that this is a killer deal! I'm looking forward to comparing the difference of what I've been using for over a decade vs the new DD stuff.
I initially only intended to upgrade my pedals, which I got for prime day (Logi RS, for $119), seeing how the G27 mods are usually $100, I also felt that was a good deal since the throttle potentiometer is starting to fail. Anyway, hope this helps someone!
3d printed fingertip grip shell I made for the x2 superstrike, was wondering if their would be any interest if I where to optimize the shell even more and get it professionally manufactured, and then sell it as a mod kit.
I purchased a brand new Logitech G PRO X2 SUPERSTRIKE directly from the Logitech G website and it arrived with that scratch on the mouse feet already present there right out of the box.
I have been a loyal Logitech customer for over 15 years. I loved your design and ecosystem, but the build quality of your hardware has become an absolute joke. Looking at my current setup, the only thing that actually works without flaws is the Powerplay charging mat. Everything else is a disaster.
Here is the reality of owning your products:
To make matters worse, look at the trail of dead Logitech hardware I have gone through recently:
It is incredibly frustrating that equipment worth hundreds of euros acts like cheap, unbranded e-waste. You are bleeding your most loyal long-term customers because you choose to save cents on decent components. I have absolutely no words left for this level of quality. I’m moving to competitors who actually offer reliable optical tech and Hot-Swap.
Let me ask you one final question: would you honestly buy your own products after an experience like this?
Today I accidentally found a G915 TKL keyboard - optical switches - wireless at a used goods market.
This seems to be a prototype and Logitech is planning to release this version in the future.
Unfortunately, it doesn't work when plugged in.
The box includes batteries, but the PCB doesn't have a battery connector.
There's no logo LED light.
I own Logitech G915X full size keyboard. Aesthetically, it is super nice. But, DO NOT WASTE YOUR MONEY ON THIS PRODUCT. When i type, it double inputs a key very often. When I type "vehicle" for example, it inputs "vehhicle" or "vehihcle". Not just one key but several keys do this very often. I am a graduate student who types a lot and this is VERY ANNOYING. Also, when I write syntax for statistical softwares, i have to double check every word i type because of this issue - "key chatter" or "key bouncing". On average, this happens once every 10 words i write which is NOT acceptable for $260 premium keyboard. I rather use a Dell keyboard that my school is throwing out.
Again, if you type a lot or do coding/syntax writing, stay away from this keyboard. It is a $260 trash that will give you a nightmare.
FYI, I counted how many times I get this issue writing this review - 14 times. Yes, 14 double inputs in this short review. Cleaning the keyboard by pulling out each key, dusting, and putting back in does not help at all.
Hi, I've been experiencing random cursor jumps upward with my G Pro X2 Superstrike (HERO 2 sensor) since switching to a glass mousepad (Wallhack CR-005). Setup : Mouse : Logitech G Pro X2 Superstrike Mousepad : Wallhack CR-005 XL Skates : Wallhack UHMW-PE silent dots (replaced original rubber skates) DPI : 800 / Polling rate : 2000Hz What I've tried : LOD (low/medium/high), Gaming Surface Mode (on/auto/off), firmware up to date, sensor cleaned, USB dongle repositioned. Issue doesn't occur on my old QcK Heavy. Video footage of the bug (unedited, bug occurs in the last 5-10 seconds) : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kxnrVbajf9w https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w3wRC0HEBX4 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P8n8ey_Q0g4 Both Wallhack and Logitech support are investigating. Has anyone experienced this with the HERO 2 sensor on glass? Any fix?
So, I have to change my headset because my current one broke, so I've been watching and reading reviews of different Logitech headsets but all they done is confuse me even more.
I'm between the G733, the G522 LIGHTSPEED and G PRO X Wireless LIGHTSPEED.
If anyone has any advice, I'd be grateful !!
For the record, my current headset is Playstation's Pulse Elite, and I just want a headset with a better sound quality tbh.
I recently switched from PS5 to PC and I’ve never had this issue. The first picture shows both G hub being 900 and ACC being 900 and it’s way off to a one-to-one scale. I then doubled AC to 1800 and kept G hub at 900 and it still feels closer to one to one, but maybe not the best but I’m missing some other settings that I have to change? Someone told me by default ACC has a steering scale at 50% but for the life of me I can’t find that.
What are considered the best gaming mice to look into? I mainly am going to be playing esport titles and single player games so I don’t need something with a lot of extra buttons. Ideally I’d like something that has decent build quality and doesn’t have insanely loud clicks. Thanks for any suggestions.
Hi all... I just recently bought this headset and was so excited to test it out.
I experience TONS of buzzing noice with the microphone and the volume of my voice is soooo low??
GHub is almost not even picking up my voice... Discord is picking it up when I scream really loud and has generally a very bad quality... Windows also does NOT pick up my voice and says I am at around 6-10% when speaking normaly/yelling.
Also something worth noticing: regardless of which preset I use the microphone quality is pretty much the same: imagine it like using a camera microphone from 2015
https://reddit.com/link/1ukupcz/video/8btqawkj5oah1/player
I have tried different kinds of things I have seen across reddit and etc but still no fix
Has anyone experienced the same issue as me?
My current Firmware: 1.3.24
