OOPS. .Meant gen 3 ejector lever
It's back and I had some time to get outdoors to give it a spin. Ate everything up except brand new magpul pmag D50 MP. Drums Those were fully loaded and I've previously run other D50s but maybe with 40 rounds in. So so more searching around on that. But 30 rounders and ets 40 rounders ran excellent.
Function check works. I've not changed the SD locking piece yet. Can't wait to give this a try at the range as is.
Anyone have ideas for how to hold the sling tight for when in the safe? I know people use rubber bands but it just doesn’t hold it well. Also know about Neomag retention strap, kinda expensive for what it is.
I purchased a clip and pin service through HK Parts and sent in a new MP5 trigger housing to get adapted for my SP5. When I got it back, I did a fit test with my SP5 before installing the trigger parts and noticed it had a lot of vertical play at the front by the mag well, it was pretty firm in place by the stock, but could pivot up and down notably in the front. After working with HK Parts support I learned I evidentially purchased their universal clip/pin service for all makes which results in a subpar fit with SP5's and evidentially they have a SP5-specific clip and pin service I was supposed to use. After some juggling, I later got a replacement MP5 housing sent in for their SP5-specific clip/pin service.
Anyway, I just got this second housing back and it does the exact same thing. At this point I'm not sure if their services are just bad, they mistakenly did a universal fit service again instead of the SP5-specific, or if there's something I'm missing with how to seat this in securely. Maybe that's normal for empty trigger housings and it will lock better in place once the trigger pack is installed? I'm just not familiar enough with the platform to know. Any advice?
EDIT: For those referencing this post, you just need to install the trigger pack and it changes the fit so that it locks in very snug. Well TIL.
I assume this isn’t normal but will it be an issue? Ap5 only about 500 through it but took apart to change the rollers and noticed the chip in the top corner of the roller pocket.
Was able to pick up the HTA SD Fullsize
Suppressor today after the SD convert using the RCM HK MP5SD 9mm ported barrel by HTA.
Helpful tip for those waiting for their suppressor approval. Have your FFL check on the approval because I didn’t nor did the FFL receive an email from the atf however when I called to let them know the forms website wasn’t showing any record of my form he called me back and said it was approved. He told me he checked his other customers and two others were approved as well without any notice from the aft. 🤙🏼
In a ban state and I’m wondering if picking up a Stribog is worth it since I have the SP5K. Is it just a worse version of what I have? I figured I could add one but it could be redundant. Anyone have some testimony if they own both and what they like about each?
I’m in a state with a new AWB and we’ve got another six weeks or so before it goes into effect. I had always wanted an SP5 (or, in my case, a clone), but never got around to it until the state said I couldn’t have one. So, given the timing, I was very glad to get confirmation this week that my AP5 was free from jail. Hope other like-minded folks are having the same luck with ATF.
Why does the design not include a second point for which a handguard to affix? The OEM handguard had wobble and so does the MI one. I assume the monolithic handguards solve this, but I don’t personally love the look.
So why not a place for one more pin? Surely they could’ve hung one down there?
Why/why not
I just picked up a AP5-5, very excited about it.. bought a AS designs trigger pack, and B&T buttstock.. i haven’t even taking the AP5-P out of the case yet..
My question is since it’s hit or miss with the internals it seems and people are swapping them out with real HK parts and they run smoother is it worth it to just buy this
https://hkparts.net/maintenance-tools/hk-mp5-mp5k-spare-parts-kit/ i mean its $200
They have cheaper ones on there but it’s MKE which would be the same manufacture as the century in the first place..
i can roll the dice and have zero issues.. but I’m always the guy that has spare parts and if it’s a common failure i wouldn’t mind having a spare around JIC.. but i don’t know much about these systems.. not sure if it’s common to fail or just bad manufacturing on that part.. so any insight?
OEM HK SP5 original grip module...apparently my google is weak?? I can't find one for sale??
If any one was wondering about a 1.75 diameter can it will fit the Mac lmf hand guard
I just bought my first mp5 clone. It is a ptr 9kt. Any suggestions for upgrades/optics? It already came with a foldable stock.
Some goodies came in yesterday!!
My gray ZF-5 and the UTG upper for my old MAC5K. Yes these 2 guns share the Milkman for now.
Hopefully the AR lower comes in for the full sized mp5 tomorrow and I can shoot my 3 mp5’s Friday. And the milkman for the first time!
I wish I could take better pictures, the gray mp5 looks REALLY good in real life. And the UTG monolithic is a very high quality piece of kit.
Hello fellow purse wielders!
Writing up this little gem for those of you that like me, prefer to know why your shit ain't working, rather than buying/swapping out a bunch of parts hoping it will suddenly start working. Sooooo, buckle up chuckle fucks, I like to over-explain shit.
On todays agenda: Extractors.
More specifically, why the cheap ass Turkish clone extractors don't work!
Disclaimer: I'm not a licensed gunsmith, nor am I a lawyer. For all intents and purposes, I'm just a random fucker on the internet. Don't listen to me... or do... up to you, literally. Any and all decisions you make going forward using information from this post, is done so at your own discretion. I didn't tell you do to this, I'm merely telling you what caused my issue and how I fixed it. Use your friggin brain.
---
Symptoms: FTE | FTF | 2-3x bullets jammed between mag/bolt/chamber | cases jammed behind trigger.
The problem: Extractor was out of spec.
Elaboration: While fiddling around with my MP5 (MAC5 which hasn't shot more than 3 round straight since the day it landed in my lap) I was playing with the bolt head, knowing that the problem was either going to be the extractor or the ejector. Ejector appeared to clear fine, so I focused on the extractor. Placed a spent 9mm casing into the bolt face to emulate how it would be on a closed bolt. Slipped in fine, cool. Went to remove it, and that's when it all made sense. The casing was practically locked into the bolt face. I really had to pry on it with some actual force just to get it slip back out. When it did, there were two snaggletooth bite marks out of the rim of the brass.
So what's happening, is that as the brass tries to rock out of the extractor, it creates a pinch point between the rim of the brass and where the recess necks back up to the exterior wall thickness. See "Pinch Area" in Picture 1, and in Picture 2 how as the case rocks out, it contacts the top of the extractor, causing the "teeth" of the extractor to bite into the rim of the brass. In 3D software, this is viewed as clipping, but in real life, it's a binding point in the process of the action cycling. One that hinders the ejector from doing it's job effectively and efficiently.
In short, the extractors are extra thiccc. Something something, the clap of their cheeks- alright I'll stop there...
---
How I fixed it: Rounding down the points and putting a soft radius on the underside of the extractor "teeth". See Pictures 3, 4, and IRL photos for reference.
In theory, you should be able to achieve this same effect by reprofiling the top of the extractor to have a shallower top/lip so there's less material to get caught in the pinch area as discussed above with Pictures 1 and 2. See picture 5 for example of extractor top/lip reprofile. I, however, did not attempt this approach, so your mileage may vary.
Honestly, all of this makes a ton of sense, when you take a look at an actual HK extractor commonly seen on the various parts sites. The teeth of the extractor look significantly rounded and are likely not as thick in the top/lip area, leading to smooth operation. The "teeth" on my extractor where very sharp and more like spikes/teeth rather than rounded nubs.
The End Result: What "should" be your end result, is a 9mm scapcap/empty casing that sits snug inside the bolt face, but shouldn't require any more effort than a gentle tap in the direction of the extractor to knock it out. If it's still too snug to easily fall out or you have to fight it at all, you likely need to take just a smidgeon more material off to achieve the desired result.
Be careful, as too much removal might result in a misfunctioning extractor, at which point, you'd be just buying a new HK extractor anyways. Soooo, eh? This fix is mostly for those that can't be fucked to throw $35 at a new one and wait for it to get here in the first place.
(Or those that want to KNOW why their shit isn't functioning in the first place.)
---
Final recommendation: Be smart, don't modify your guns unless you know what you're doing. If you're unqualified, please seek out a licensed gunsmith to do the necessary modifications. Alternatively, go and buy a RCM MP5-E bolt head. It's a much more robust bolt head and should circumvent this issue entirely, alongside other issues.
Anywho! Have a lovely day and be safe! Until next time!