Hello,
Purchasing an ap5-p soon with the intention of running it suppressed. Supressor is a rugged sub 9.
Anything I need to do to the AP5 to get it running efficiently with this Supressor//anything I should replace on it in general?
I’ve heard people change the extractor springs on these AP5s with the HK copper one.
I made a previous post about my AP5 not being able to feed flat nose rounds. I’ve tested a bunch of stuff out and have come to a conclusion. The cause behind the ftfs was entirely magazine presentation. When regular mags are inserted into my gun. They wobble quite a bit, but also move up and down inside the magwell, which is the issue. If I push a mag all the way up it’ll feed fine, but if I pull it down, the round hangs up. The mag can move up and down about 1-2 MM. Putting tape on the front of a mag will stop this from happening, but I’m looking for a better solution. Possibly replacing the mag catch? I included a video of the mag catch showing the movement.
I’m calling this done until the ARHK trigger is released.
Any experience using a G3 sight on an MP5K? I found some people saying they run it with no problems, and others say the point of impact is off. I like the notched sight picture, but I want to make sure I can get the elevation adjustment right before buying one.
My astigmatism has finally gotten to the point where I should transition to prism optics for my eyes. I was considering the Vortex Spitfire or the Primary Arms SLx with either the cyclops or Gemini reticle. The Gemini is specifically for 9mm but I’ve heard the actual markings are just too small and the cyclops would be better. Anyone have any experience with these or recommendation? It’ll be going on a K model!
A few rough edges - I'll need to do a slower print to clean up the surface - but print is sturdy. I finally found, sailing on the sea, a copy of the Brown's Brush Magpul-to-A3 files. I just couldn't bring myself to pay for a true A3 stock and this just scratches enough of the Die Hard itch for me.
Also because I wasn't paying attention, you can see where I ran out of my original filament halfway through and had to switch to a slightly different color.
I have a sp5 w/ milkman. It’s VERY quiet with 147s. Just wondering has anyone had an SD & when you got it wasn’t feeling it too much or said you could’ve went without it & just had the sp5 full size with suppressor and been just as happy? Thanks !
Has anyone use these on any mp5sd or clone variants? Watched a video on YouTube they seem amazing.. install probably going to be a pain though..
Also what is the enhanced cocking tube support?
https://www.broadrivertactical.com/products/brt-6612-7a2b2a34-0852-48a2-8086-acd59ff0713f
Got a new hkp cocking handle and didn’t realize it goes real well with the knurling on my flashlight. Might just be me but it’s the little things
I’ll be honest, I’m not well versed when it comes to mp5s and their clones. I have a wealthy buddy and he told me if I beat him a game of pool anytime this summer he will get me any firearm I want.
All I know is I want it to be frt compatible. Or atleast at fcg compatible.
Suggestions? I’ve been looking at the zenith zf-5’s.
Obviously I am half drunk while posting this.
Hey all,
I have a Century Arms AP5SD that uses a Warhammer Armaments FRT in a Lee Sporting LS5 Lower. It also uses an HK 90° Locking Piece (down in degree from the factory 120° LP that came on it) and a little printed stop block in the trigger group.
Up to this point, it was run FLAWLESSLY in FRT mode.
However, I recently got a PTR Vent 2 with a SilencerCo 3-Lug Mount and some Freedom Munitions 165gr. Hush Subsonic Ammunition.
Now when I fire with that suppressor and ammo, I CONSTANTLY am having FTFs, FTEs and StovePipes.
It worked flawless for 1 magazine in semi-auto and 1 only. Now it has those issues in semi-auto. And don’t even think about FRT mode. It’s just dead.
Now, I know all about the need for tuning and bolt gap and using different locking pieces and + or - size rollers and check bolt gap with feeler gauges.
When I installed the 90° HK Locking Piece, my bolt gap was at like….25.5mm which is barely in spec. But many of my you said it was fine while others said to add some +1 or +2 rollers.
Originally when I spoke of my plan to FRT and Suppress, many of you said to go with a 90° or even 80° LP. (Hence why I added the HK 90° LP).
I already have some + size rollers in my possession but haven’t installed them yet, as many of you previously recommended just running it as is (with the 120° LP and factory rollers).
I had already swapped to the 90° LP but never installed my rollers.
Thus we are here.
*****I’ve found that it feels like the 165gr. Hush Subsonic ammo is actually the bigger issue….as I can fire in semi with regular, non-subsonic 9mm through that suppressor and have probably 1 issue out of a 30rd. mag. But with the subsonic ammo in, even WITHOUT the suppresssor; just shooting subsonic unsuppressed; it still has the aforementioned issues.
In either case though, running in FRT with either the suppressor or subsonic just straight up doesn’t work period.
So I know both the ammo and suppressor are contributing to the issue.
So…what do I do?
Leave the HK 90° and add my +size rollers to try to get closer to the middle sweet spot between 0.25mm and 0.45mm in my bolt gap?
Or something else entirely.
*PS - Highly doubt this matters at all but figured I’d mention it, I also swapped the factory roller retention spring for one of the HK modern springs (the ones that don’t use the retention plate and just look like a single strand of zig-zagging wire with hooked curls on either end)
Thanks in advance!
Waiting on my acro to be delivered! Then it’s be complete ( for now )
Freshly SBR’d MKE AP5 Navy with A3 stock, paired with a Rugged SUB9 suppressor and a RD3 Ambi FRT. Shooting 147gr subs out of this setup is about as loud as a nail gun.
I will note, the stock certainly leaves some to be desired for comfort, but it 100% passes on the aesthetic.
Hey guys, just ordered an AP5SD that I will be turning into an SBR and want to purchase a suppressor that gives the closest look to the true MP5SD but can also still be used on a handgun as well (going to get a threaded barrel for my USP9C).
I’ve been toying with the idea of saying f it and send it to hitec for a true conversion but I do like the idea
Of being able to use the suppressor for more than one gun.
Thanks in advance!
It is my understanding to run 500 rds of full power (124gr or better) before charging out parts. I understand this is for internal break in, smooth tooling marks, and if there is a problem warranty it out they’ll ask about the break in. I have the ap5-p and ap5-sd. Do the switching out parts extend to the butt stocks or can you change that out prior to break in? I don’t see an issue internally with it but could be missing something..
Also with these break in when do the issues usually show up? Is it early on or late, or is it random every time depending on the failure and part? TIA!
Showcasing a few of our products here. We've got the A3 style brace for the B&T collapsing arms, extended pinky rest for the Mark 23 in case the grip is too small for you, and the lightweight WML rail for when you don't need to hold zero on an IR laser.
Totalinnovative.com
I just really like how this thing turned out and wanted to share