r/Nerf

These are the only half length darts available in my country and I wanted to know if they're any good. Using a nexus pro if that helps

I played around with the Maxim Pro and broke the shell twice trying to run a full auto setup. The OOD full-auto kit for the maxim is pretty unreliable as it literally destroys the shell when it runs. I just got a stryfe and did a rewire with motor braking, daybreak wheels, reused the maxim pro motors, and a tighter cage. It is way more reliable so far and handles 3S without a problem. The OJ feels built better. Is it worth going to a Solenoid later?

I took my old Nerf Longshot and completely overhauled its exterior to resemble a Barrett .50 caliber anti-materiel rifle. To create the flat top, I cut off the carrying handle, glued several pieces of plexiglass together, covered the seams in Bondo, sanded the Bondo to create a smooth shape, and then screwed it onto the top of the blaster. The picatinny rail is permanently glued/screwed to the top plexiglass piece. The new stock was purchased from AK blastermod. The scope, bolt mechanism, new barrel attachment, magazine and laser sight are 3D printed kit pieces from WorkerMod. Finally, I spraypainted the whole thing dark grey (with white primer underneath). I also replaced the stock internals with an aluminum upgrade kit for stefan darts, also purchased from AK-blastermod.

PSA: DO NOT GO OUT IN PUBLIC WITH A NERF BLASTER THAT HAS BEEN MODIFIED TO HAVE A DARK/REALISTIC/UNSAFE AESTHETIC. This Barrett Longshot was merely an art project for me, and the most I ever use it for is shooting paper targets in the safety of my own home. I NEVER take it out in public, as doing so would be very dangerous and potentially lethal (not to mention illegal, depending on laws pertaining to toy firearms in your region).

There are many PP's out there but this is mine.

I used Gemeneye's recon barrel as a base and created a shroud that has picatinny top and bottom.

Did the classic Magnus integration as well underneath, including adding extra mega dart storage in the mount. I was pleasantly surprised how close the Nerf zombie strike colors matched the Xshot.

Modified a lot of different models from printables and thingiverse to be able to create something that looks like peak 2010's NERF.

I love the SLAB and think the lever action is the most satisfying priming method for plinking so when I saw the Vulture 1886 remix, I had to pre-order the kit.

I decided that making it resemble a bespoke Winchester 1886 Deluxe was the goal and made a bunch of custom SVG's to resemble engraving. Printed entirely in PETG with the details printed using a 0.2mm nozzle. PETG is pretty finicky but I'm satisfied with how it came out.

Gotta do a little more tuning and finish the final details but I'm loving it. If anyone wants to attempt to make their own, I'd be happy to upload my 3MF.

I've uploaded the custom parts to Makerworld at the link below:

https://makerworld.com/en/models/2824277-bespoke-mhp-vulture-decorative-parts#profileId-3145825

You'll need to print and assemble the 1886 blaster from methanjuice to complete the build.

https://www.printables.com/model/1638004-vulture-1886-pattern-nerf-blaster-mod-for-mhps-vul

EDIT: Filament used was
Stock: SULU PETG Coffee Brown
Barrel: TINMORRY Metallic SPACE GREY PETG
Lever: TINMORRY Metallic BRONZE PETG

was going to build an ontos, but these were $30 total, new in box too. Thing shoots about twice as hard as my 2s Stryfe at ~1/2 the price lol

I need more mags now lol

I am happy to share that RPG is working quite well! It hits 70-75 FPS on homemade Titan sized rockets, that is double the KE of the 45 FPS average that they get on a stock Titan. The prime weight is just about 70 lbs for this performance.

RPG coincides with another project I'm also incredibly happy to announce which is, the continuation of B&R's homemade rockets from Etsy!

Brian from B&R, incredibly kindly gave me his foam rocket making materials and knowledge upon his retiring with the explicit goal of open sourcing his method and making the rockets available to purchase again.

I will be posting a lot more about these over the rest of this year but, RPG will eventually release and I will be selling pre builts and parts kits on my WIP website.

I will have completed rockets, DIY rocket parts kits, and a detailed guides to make your own homemade rockets that are compatible with Titans, Ultimator / XXL Bazookas and Maximizers.

Keep an eye out for the finall release of this blaster and rockets :)

Figured you all might enjoy this piece. Fully functional. I do not have any of the original ammo. Not sure how many exist. But I'm keeping this one safe.

Linked HERE is a video of a short firing demo of the blaster feeding darts from a Talon magazine. It gets wordy below this, so if you understandably want to skip all of the reading and just see the blaster in action, click above!

Hello everyone! This is a kit for the X-Shot Excel Ejector Shell Blaster that allows the blaster to feed darts from a Talon Magazine. When I saw photos of this blaster before it was available, this is the modification I knew I wanted to do.  One of the first modifications I used 3D printing on was making parts that converted the Buzz Bee Hunter to being magazine fed, and while I'm still very proud of that project, I've often thought it would be fun to revisit it with more experience and fresh eyes.  So, when this blaster came along and was better in every way, not to mention was accessible to many more people, it was the perfect opportunity to revisit the concept. 

My goal was to make the kit simple and inexpensive to keep it accessible to as many people as possible, regardless of their skillset or budget. With this in mind, the printed parts were designed to be assembled with as few pieces of outside hardware as possible, as well as make them as easy to install with few or preferably no permanent alterations to the internals and shell of the blaster. In the end, the kit consists of eight printed parts, requires five pieces of hardware, and requires only one permanent alteration to the blasters internals. 

The Stencil piece and the TwiceLock Collet Tip do not need supports, but the rest of the pieces will. I did my best to keep the need for supports to a minimum, but in the end there were areas on most of the parts where it couldn't be helped. Thankfully, the supports are only necessary in relatively flat areas where cleanup should be fairly easy. Note: Do not use supports inside of the dart pusher. They are not needed, and they are extremely hard to remove. 

Hardware List:

• Two AS-012 O-Rings for the pusher Link
• One AS-016 O-Ring for the barrel Link
• One 7×6mm Spring Ball Plunger Link
• One 0.527 x 6in Aluminum Barrel Link
• (Optional) Two M3X8mm Screws for the Magazine Well Link

Note: All of these part links are from Out of Darts, both because they are a great company that I want to support, but also to streamline purchasing the hardware and simplify the assembly process further. Of course, you don't have to use these exact components, but this is how I purchased my hardware for this kit.

Unfortunately, due to the plunger tube assembly of the blaster being glued together, the kit does require one permanent alteration to the plunger tube.  While covered more extensively in the Assembly Instructions PDF included with the files, the original air path must be cut off and a small amount of material must be removed for the new air path/dart pusher to be put in place. To aid in this step, I have included a stencil piece that fits to the plunger tube and shows where the material needs to be removed. 

A huge thank you to CJ Martin and windX for testing these files for me and providing me with great feedback and suggestions! Their help was invaluable.

Another huge thank you to Thanhtacles for sharing his TwiceLock Collet Design! I tried out a couple different collet designs that weren't working for me, but the first print with the TwiceLock collet worked exactly how I needed it to!

And finally, a huge thank you to Sillybutts for answering some questions I had while working on the kit.  As generous as he is talented, Sillybutts deserves all the adoration he receives and more. 

The .STEP and F3d files are included in the file set for anyone who wants to do their own adjustments or modifications to the kit. 

Links to the X-Shot Excel Ejector Talon Magazine Conversion Kit

Printables: Link

Makerworld:Link

The files for the alternate grips seen in the photos are linked below:

X-Shot Excel Ejector Alternate Foregrip

Printables: Link

Makerworld:Link

X-Shot Excel Ejector Extended Stock

Printables: Link

Makerworld:Link

Click to view the images.

After quite a bit of work and looking to beat the clock on the weather, THE WRONG SIDE OF HEAVEN is finally finished. It is a hybrid StryfeX and LongShot CS-6, with a snazzy paintjob.

For the fully fledged writeup, including many photos of in-progress builds, please visit here. You may need to translate it as its posted to a non-english blog, Hatena Blog.

The blasters used were a StryfeX, and a blue LongShot CS-6. (Yeah some of you probably are like, oh you could have saved it! You chopped up a perfectly good original blue LongShot!? You should've given it to m- Yes. And it works flawlessly.)

When I started, I was initially suggested by an acquaintance in the community, KatsBlasterMods, to build a StryShot as it's fairly easy and they look cool. (He helped me out quite a bit with suggestions and questions, so thank you a ton, it means a lot!)

I wanted to try something else out - of course, I own regular modded and unmodded Stryfes. Instead, I wanted to use a StryfeX in an integration, as I don't think I've ever seen that done here.

================

I first drafted up an image in CSP to get a general appearance and color scheme, and went from there. I made my shell cuts with a hacksaw, and filed everything smooth. Next I did multiple rounds of test-fitting - these were rather difficult due to the atypical shape of the StryfeX in comparison to a normal Stryfe.

Once that was done, it was time to fuse the shells. I started with rubber cement and hot glue for an initial bond to make the pieces stick together, then used Smooth-On "SmoothCast" 65D for the actual fusion. Afterwards I used PlasticWeld Epoxy Putty to fill in gaps and make the shells smoothly join.

Next, I sanded everything, and this is where I made a bit of a mistake. I did not use a respirator this time because I was lazy, and I did pay the price. Whole afternoon I was coughing and even today I still cough a bit. Please don't do this, go get the mask, it's worth the hassle, LOL.

Then I let everything cure for 2 nights, then washed off the shell gently with soap and water to remove the leftover dust so it wouldn't interfere.

=================

For painting I chose red Rustoleum 2X for the base coat, Grey and Black acrylic paints for the detailing, and a matte Rustoleum clear coat spray can.

When it was done, I applied the paint, let it sit, then put on the clear coat and reassembled thusly. I was scared at first that the blaster would just fall apart in my hands, so I tested the bond strength and I can say, the actual BLASTER SHELL would likely snap before the epoxy/SmoothCast bond would. So, nice.

=================

This is my first full-fledged integration and I couldn't be prouder with how it turned out. But what are YOUR thoughts? Tell me what you think, what I could improve, what I should know next time going into a project like this?

I got a lot of positive feedback on my last post, so I decided to improve the models and upload it on printables, with the addition of various handguards. The link is below

https://www.printables.com/model/1725574-boxer-pro-kit

I'm considering buying a Breacher hardware kit but and I want to know the difference between these two because one is a bit cheaper.

https://silverfoxindustries.shop/collections/designs-by-sillybutts/products/breacher-by-sillybutts-hardware-kit

https://outofdarts.com/products/sillybutts-breacher-hardware-kit

I was also wondering what type of filament I should use to print the parts. I currently have a ton of Bambu PLA but I'm not sure if I need something stronger.

​

As you can probably tell by my projects I'm a huge Aliens fan. My new other, other, other project is making a basic sentry gun from the movie. I thought a Boxer would be just an ok base to start with while learning arduino, but it sounds pretty good and the use of belts makes it a good match for my needs. Going to use a stepper motor with limit switches for movement. When the PIR sensor is tripped it will stop movement, rev the flywheels, then fire. Im not sure how well the PIR will do on a moving platform, and it will have to be housed in a way that cuts out the perifial sensing so that it only stops and fires at objects directly in front. Maybe down the line I'll upgrade it to be more of an active sensor, but for now it should do the trick.