As the title says, i got my switch lite modded but when i turn it on it goes only in stock mode, and if i take out the sd the nintendo works normally. I know i didn’t get scammed because the modder sent a photo with the Picofly screen visible, and If i open the SD on my computer, I can see both the Atmosphere programs and the bootloader files. What is happening?
I checked and it is securely in place. I unscrewed the back and removed the card reader to inspect it and I don’t notice anything wrong with the pins or the reader. How can I fix this??
I can’t seem to get past this, I’ve been trying for 6 hours
Additional info:
I'm using the latest hats pack by sthetix hekatos 6.5.3 on Firmware 22.5.0
I've checked FuseCheck v1.0.3 and the status says Perfect Match with both required and burnt fuses showing 23. It also says OFW will boot normally (but it doesn't and its just a black screen)
I've tried troubleshooting by downloading the latest hats pack (HATS-2026-07-25-3e7a04f) which also seems to be the same version that I used when I first modded my switch and then copied all contents inside the hats pack to the root of my sd card choosing to replace any duplicate files. Issue didn't get fixed all launch options still black screen.
I also tried deleting atmosphere and bootloader and then getting fresh ones inside the hats pack but still the same issue.
I do also have a nand backup from when I modded my switch.
Any possible fixes for this?
I recently updated to the latest sistem version, and I cant find a way to download games. Dbi crashes every time I try to open It, tinfoil gets stuck on the First loading and then crashes, same thing with awoo, but the last two could be crashing since i haven't updated them for some time. What can I do?
Instale el port de Zelda ocarina of tine y majora's mask y dos o tres días después me dió este error.
Wondering if anyone can help.
As per the title I am trying out SCCM Retro for emulation.
When playing PS1 games I cannot seem to get the thumbsticks to pick up in game.
I have tried toggling the Analog controls setting but it makes no difference.
The thumsticks do work on the menu opened with the home button.
In the remap menu when I test inputs moving the thumbsticks shows (unused here).
Sorry if this is a daft question been trying to get it working for an hour with no luck.
I put the console in the official Dock to play on the TV, and it worked fine. After a while, I took it out of the dock to play handheld again. Suddenly, the console shut off completely and I heard a soft "pop" sound coming from the speakers.
Pressing the power button didn’t do anything and the console was getting hot around the mod chip.
I had some typical issues during the install (DAT0 errors, 2 flashes for CLK/RST grounding out due to shield/screw pressure), but I managed to fix them. The console finally booted up, Hekate worked, and I was playing normally in handheld mode.
The console is completely dead (black screen, no backlight, no Nintendo logo).
The Picofly chip LED is completely dead (no blue flashes, nothing).
Hard resetting (holding power for 20+ seconds) does nothing.
Leaving it on the charger does nothing.
I measured the SP1 / SP2 caps on the APU and I do have voltage there (around 0.6V-0.8V). So the PMIC seems to be alive and sending power to the APU.
I measured the 3.3V point directly on the Picofly chip, and it is receiving 3.3V normally.
Despite getting 3.3V, the RP2040 chip on the Picofly shows no signs of life.
Question:
Since the mobo has voltages at SP1/SP2 but won't boot, is it stuck because the dead Picofly is still attached to the DAT0/CMD/CLK/CPU lines and grounding them out?
I have attached all the photos with the solder points
P.S. the dat0 point looks like that because I ripped the circle it had and then scratched a little off the plastic to make contact with that copper line
Edit: Ladies and Gentlemen, the console no longer turns on! I’ll be seeing a repair shop in the next days.
Edit 2: Switch is now in a repair shop
i bought this pico fly for my gf on alibaba, but on the flex cable, the chip isn't an rp2030, should i be concerned, or is it something that works too but a little slower?
I’m close to giving up on this V2 Switch mod and would really appreciate some advice.
I followed the full V2/Picofly installation process from the NanoFix YouTube guide. The console boots into Hekate normally, but I cannot reliably boot anything beyond that.
Current situation:
Switch V2 / Mariko
OFW: 22.5.0
23 burnt fuses, which seems correct for 22.5.0
Latest Hekate/HATS
Atmosphère 1.11.2
Original SanDisk SD card
eMMC benchmark looks good with no read errors
SD benchmark also looks good
Hekate detects the eMMC and partitions normally
OFW → black screen
Semi-stock SYSMMC → black screen
CFW SYSMMC → black screen
CFW EMUMMC → usually black screen
I managed to boot into emuMMC and reach the HOME menu briefly once, but it froze and then went black
Occasionally I get Atmosphère fatal error: Program ID: 0100000000000005 std::abort() called (0xffe)
I previously saw Pkg1 decryption failed / BEK missing, but that disappeared after changing to a different clean package.
The main thing that looks abnormal is Hekate → Console Info → Battery. It shows errors for:
However, the battery itself appears to work. The console charges, stays powered in Hekate for a long time, and when I briefly reached the emuMMC HOME menu, it showed a battery percentage.
I also don’t see any obvious damage on the battery-side area of the motherboard.
Could the battery/I2C communication errors be responsible for OFW and Atmosphère black-screening even though the battery still charges and powers the console? Or does this sound more like a software/firmware issue or a Picofly soldering/board issue?
Has anyone had similar symptoms—Hekate working normally, good eMMC/SD benchmarks, but every HOS boot black-screening—and managed to fix it?
I ordered a Switch OLED with an installed RP2040 modchip.
It worked fine but MTP wasn’t working and I thought maybe a firmware update would fix it.
So I updated through picofly toolbox from v2.74 to my downloaded v2.80 update.bin.
It restarted correctly no problem. I went into emummc and mtp still wasn’t working inside DBI.
I restarted the console again and it went straight into OFW, no Hekatos…
Searching google for my issue let me find that I maybe needed to flash the firmware.u2f directly.
So I opened the switch carefully and tried to start the console again.
The modchip won’t even light up. No LEDs turned on.
I remembered that I have a v2 modchip laying around with that USB-C adapter for the modchip.
After connecting the USB-C to the adapter and that adapter to the modchip, I pressed and hold the BOOT button (the battery of the console is disconnected btw) and then connecting that USB-A side to my PC nothing happened.
The reset button works for restarting the console…
Did anyone experience that kind of stupidity themselves? And if so, could you fix it??
And if not, could you still help me if you know something about my issue? :(
Hi! I would like if somebody would explain to me the basics thing to look out for when using a modded switch lite with picofly. I know i can’t go online but i’m afraid that i am missing some basic things. Thank you :))
Hi everyone. I'm having an issue that is stopping me from doing almost anything; I can't install Android/Linux, and I can't create an emuMMC either.
I have already tried with two different MicroSD cards. Do I need to replace the console's SD card reader?
(Sorry for any mistakes, English is not my native language).
Theoretically, could you swap out the APU and EMMC from a dead and unbanned motherboard over to a good working but banned motherboard and have It work to play online?
What else I would be required to be completed as well?
My understanding is that the paired key of EMMC and APU is what's get banned and hence swaping out a known good APH and EMMC from a dead board will bring a fresh set of keys.
