r/NxSwitchModding

Any help would be greatly appreciated. I was very careful and followed step by step instructions while doing the swap. All cables and seatings look good to me. Anyone see what could be the issue?

Trying to mod my v2 switch but i cant fin the chip. Searching for an hour now and i cant find any listing for my version (with a normal price tag). I found one exact listing but its blocked. Also found one on ali but im not sure does it come with all the things neeeded _EvL1t0Q (just end of the link since reddit takes down aliexpress links). Any help?

Hi and good day everyone, I am a newbie who has never own a switch but I have done some research on it. I am looking to buy a secondhand modded switch and the seller tell me it is not recommended to boot switchOS, use genuine catridge and play online because Nintendo can detect it and will get me ban. Is this true? If yes, does that mean I can only play offline in the Atmosphere and never online if I buy the switch from the seller?

Note: The seller claim it is picofly modchip. I am not sure if I need to ask anything else to confirm haha

Did the kamikaze, dat0 is reading correctly all the points too (A,D,B,3.3V) no shorts. The problem is I forgot to disconnect the battery while grinding the board. The picofly is giving (*==) error. But when I remove the dat0 the error becomes (=*) [dat0 missing], that's why I'm sure it's not severed dat0. I'm suspecting the MAX77812 CHIP needs to be replaced? Kindly confirm it.( All red circles are short, using a multimeter diode mode continuity )

This looks different from the previous version before. How do you install this in V2? I cant find the older style of Picofly anywhere anymore.

Here's the link

Hi! I just got a pre-modded Switch from eBay and noticed that it takes a long time from when i press the power button for the splash screen to show up, is that normal? Video of the issue is attached.

Hi everyone,

I'm working with a friend on an STM32-based USB adapter that I'm trying to make enumerate as a genuine Nintendo Switch Pro Controller instead of a generic HID device.

The old GBAtemp thread has been incredibly helpful, especially the switch-pro-wired.pcap capture:
https://gbatemp.net/threads/reverse-engineering-the-switch-pro-controller-wired-mode.475226/

However, I think that capture starts after the initial USB enumeration/handshake. The interrupt traffic is there, but I can't find the complete connection sequence, and that's exactly where I'm currently stuck.

At the moment:

• Steam recognizes my STM32 device as a Switch Pro Controller and everything works correctly.
• If I emulate the HORI Pokkén Controller, the Switch 2 detects it immediately (as expected), but as Generic USB Controller.
• But when I try to emulate an official Switch Pro Controller, the Switch 2 refuses to recognize it.

Since the original capture is almost 10 years old, I'm also wondering if Nintendo changed anything in the USB initialization sequence over time.

Would anyone with a Switch 1 with last FW or Switch 2 be willing to capture a new USB trace? Ideally, the capture would begin before plugging in the controller, so it includes the complete enumeration and initialization process.

If anyone has the hardware to do this (USBPcap, Beagle, Linux usbmon, etc.), it would be a huge help. Even confirming that the initialization sequence is still identical would be valuable.

Thanks!

Just wanna show you my newly modded one: OLED screen, full aluminum housing, TMR sticks, extended battery, mod chip, and a 512 GB microSD card.
Everything was done by myself. Very happy with how it turned out. One of the coolest handhelds for long-distance travel. ❤️‍🩹

The error code says RST, but even after resoldering every point, it doesn't change. Could it be a faulty mod chip? If I remove the chip and leave the flex cables in, will it work regularly?

After some weeks of working rp2040, now it just blinks..

Can't find why this happened

Thanks for your help

Edit : I have ~400mv on all points with the diode mode of the multimeter, but only 0.6v on CLK when turned ON.

I’m at a point now where I no longer care for bragging rights on how the hole looks. Accuracy is cool! Don’t get me wrong. But functional kamikaze methods are what matters. At first I was into the whole “OH LOOK HOW SMALL MY KAMIKAZE WAS!” Now I’m like, “eh. Who cares” it gets covered anyway with solder mask after the wire is attached. And likely never to be seen again. Am I the only one? First pic is when I was really trying hard to make the smallest possible. Second is one I did today. Both successful, both completely cover in mask after. Thoughts? Do you think it matters? Or is it purely bragging rights.