Hola, tengo una olympus OM-10D Mark ii con el objetivo 12-42 pancake.
Con ese objetivo la cámara se queda con la pantalla en negro y no dispara, pero si cambio de objetivo a un adaptador para objetivos Sony, la cámara funciona y es capaz de sacar fotos.
¿Sabéis que puede ser? Está actualizada a la última versión y también está cambiado el cable flex que al final no era eso, pero está cambiado y la cámara va bien.
Gracias
I just wanted to try this out, a couple of mushrooms on the lawn.
Bracketing set to 30 frames narrow. I got about 13 in focus shots with each mushroom.
Detail was pretty good at 100% zoom. Pretty happy for such a wee 12Mp camera.
Taken with an OM-5 II and a 40-150mm lens, edited with LR mobile.
I wonder if upgrading to the 40-150mm f/4 or f/2.8 Pro would significantly improve the image quality, especially for cropping. I'm not a professional by any means, just a hobbyist.
I'm a bit undecided about what gear to bring/not bring and what to buy for an upcoming trip to Namibia.
I have an OM-1.1 and I'm thinking of bringing the following lenses:
- Oly 12-100 F4: I think this will be my default lens, a bit of an all-rounder
- Pana 9 F1.7: I'd like to use it for the wide open spaces and for some astrophotography
- Oly 12-40 f2.8: I'm thinking of leaving this at home, as it seems to be already covered by the 12-100 and it's not really suitable for night photography anyway. Am I right?
- Oly 45 1.8: I love this lens and I'm tempted to bring it, but I'm afraid it will end up staying in the bag unused
Also: I think I will not bring a tripod with me
Next topic:
I don't currently own a telephoto and I'm not ready to spend a lot of money on one, so I've narrowed it down to two options:
- Oly 75-300 II
- Pana 100-300 II
As far as IQ goes, I've read quite conflicting opinions, but they seem to be pretty much on par (and apparently the quality of the individual copy plays a big role).
Between the two, I'm more tempted by the Pana for 3 reasons:
1- weather sealing (which I assume, even though it's not guaranteed on a non-Pana body, is still better than nothing)
2- the lens stabilization (which won't work in Dual I.S. since I have an Oly body, but from what I understand, at longer focal lengths lens stabilization is preferable to IBIS anyway)
3- aperture
What do you guys think? Prices are basically identical.
Hi everyone,
I recently had a hot pixel issue on my OM-5 Mark II that got confirmed and resolved by my dealer (sensor showed a fixed red pixel visible even at fairly normal exposure settings, like 1/250s). I got a replacement camera, and while it's much better, I'm now seeing several (7 so far) faint hot pixels during a more extreme dark frame test — but only at long exposure + high ISO, not at normal shutter speeds.
I'd like to figure out if this is just normal sensor behavior or still on the high side, so I'd really appreciate it if some of you could run the same quick test and share your results (any MFT/OM System body welcome, even other brands for comparison).
Test setup:
What I'd love to know:
This would really help me understand whether what I'm seeing is within normal range or worth pursuing further with my dealer. Thanks a lot in advance!
This is so informative, check it out!
I've been wanting to get into travel and street photography now that I am traveling more with my wife. As a 45M, I recently got tired of lugging around my Canon R5ii with 2 or 3 lenses. Most of the time, I was excited to take it out, then it became a hassle, so it mostly stayed back at the hotel. So I started looking for a smaller camera. Then (I didn't even follow this sub, it just popped up) someone posted about the refurb sale, and I started looking into it. Long story short, took my first trip and loved the size and weight. Even with two lenses, it was easy to keep with me. What impressed me the most, was the IQ out of this thing. Glad that post found me and glad I took that leap.
I’ve been shooting macro for roughly a year, and this was actually my first time entering a photography competition.
I entered three of my macro photos into the 35AWARDS “Yellow Color” contest, and to my surprise, one of them made it into the Top 1% of the competition. There were 22,943 photos submitted by 5,374 photographers from 111 countries, so I’m honestly pretty happy with the result!
I’m posting the certificate and the three photos I submitted.
What I found most valuable, though, wasn’t the ranking.
Looking through the other entries was a huge learning experience. There are so many different ways people approach macro — lighting, composition, backgrounds, colors, focus stacking, and even how they choose and present their subjects.
It really made me realize how much there is still to learn.
So if you’re new to macro and you’re thinking about entering a competition but feel like your photos aren't “good enough” yet, just give it a try.
Don’t worry about winning. Use it as a chance to see what other photographers are doing, learn from their work, and figure out where you can improve.
I’m only one year into this hobby, and I still have a lot to learn. But entering this competition has definitely motivated me to keep going.
To all the beginners out there: enter, learn, shoot again, and have fun! 🐜📷
I've set my AF targeting pad to OFF, but whenever my nose or cheek touches the LCD touch panel, it still moves my AF target. I'm at wit's end trying to figure out how to correct this. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
I’ve been shooting for over 15yrs, dabbled with many different cameras but never owned a M43 camera.. happy to say I do not regret my purchase! The OM-3 is an amazing camera ✨
Come share your photos with the community! Whether it's showing off SOOC JPEGs, fully edited RAWs, or anything in-between if you want [constructive and kind] critique or suggestions.
We're basing on the rules from our sibling sub, r/m43, simply because they make sense, and tweaking them a little:
Da Rules:
45° viewfinder for PT-059
(And some others in near future)
NO it is not the same as aoi UMG-01 NOR UMG-05.
Read below. ;)
So... we scubadivers and snorkelers all know that a perfect trim is horizontal.
And, when filming or shooting wide angle underwater, one needs to get "in front of" the LCD monitor of any hoising for TG7/TG6 etc.. being PT-059 or others...
Even if you do not use just the shader that comes with pt059 and decide to use something like the also great aoi UMG-01, you still need to get your eyes at eyelevel wit the camera to see the whole screen.
I find that to be very unconfortable. And terrible for your neck. (for mine is).
AOI has also a very nice 90° adapter (the AOI UMG-05 which I own) that is super for wide angle shooting in the water column, but, not as good for macro photography in walls, because due to the position we either get in the way of snoots or we easily bang our head against the walls damaging not only our head but also marine critters...
So I searched for a 45° angle viewfinder but... there WAS none. Zero. Nada.
Got back home, open cad... and 3d printed my first version of a 45° angled viewfinder for pt-059.
These images are from the first prototype. The actual model has more details and works super!!!
No more unconfort downing your head to sea-floor level to shoot nudibranchs.
No more pain bumping your head on the walls trying to get close to that shrimp.
No more frustration when snorkeling trying to shoot by the rocks on the beach at intertidal ..
A 45 degrees viewfinder is "all we need".
Simple, direct, removable, light.
Selling in some time.
Can you tell me your honest feedback? Is this something you would consider buying? Do you see interest in this?
And yes, it works great for snorkeling too.
It works on the OM System PT-059, on the AOI housing for TG7, on the Nauticam NA-TG7 with the rails they sell (32 dollars) and I made an adapter to use with the Seafrogs housing for tg7 (the new one with the vaccum verifier adapter).
You can check a preview of one my first versions here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WLASKtRbwF4
Put autocaptions and translate to your language as it is more or less ok. I will upload subtitles when I can. :)
Im new to photography and receiving my MK2 tomorrow. I have the 12-100mm at home and i checked the rear of the lens and noticed a tiny spec of dust inside the glass. Should i be worried?
Hey all,
I've been using a pre-owned Olympus OM-D Mk II for a few years--or rather, I've owned two consecutive ones. I'm a wilderness ranger with the USFS and tend to carry these guys on a peak design clip on my right shoulder, and it gets a little knocked around on occasion. Well, yesterday I had my first emergency evacuation and evidently at some point during all that the camera must have kicked the bucket.
I'm wanting to order a replacement camera semi-quickly, because I'm mid season and there's too much beauty out there to be out of commission for a prolonged period, but I'm thinking about changing my camera around in an effort at finding something a little more rugged. My old man suggests moving to a more professional camera like the OM-D, but I'm not particularly a man of means and the pricepoint jump there is daunting. I like the Olympus family, the OM-1's analog-esque control layout in particular, and the micro 4/3's ability to substantially enhance the magnification ability of analog lenses when using an adaptor ring.
My question in broad strokes:
-Is the OM-D substantially more rugged than the OM-1? -Is there another camera I should be thinking about? -Is there a way to improve the way I'm carrying this camera while still being able to quickdraw it for wildlife and such?
Thanks in advance.
EDIT: I was using an Olympus OM-D EM10 Mark II.
