Hello everyone,
Want to buy a replacement feed for one of my Pelikan M800 nib units. (Accidentally deformed an older one via too much pressure). Perhaps one of you has a spare in stash? Prefer CONUS but open to international shipping. Regular rules apply.
Thanks for reading!
M1000 is a Fine nib. It lays down a wet line. I have to refill it every week or two. My M800 is a medium nib. Now that I’ve had the nib tuned, it also lays down a wet and broader line. I can’t remember the last time I refilled it - maybe 2 months ago. I write about the same amount each week with each pen.
Is this a known thing? Any ideas why this would be?
Recently got the art collection v.3, my first pelikan pen! But after spending some time with it I noticed that the pattern on the body is poorly aligned in a lot of places…especially the back. In the picture tou can see a lot of unjoined lines.
Is this normal or is this worth going back to my local shop and asking for an exchange? Its something thats been at the back of my mind and bothering me.
It’s been an honor and a pleasure to restore this very early prewar 100.
I have to say that I’m much more partial to the green marble binde than the all black BUT I’m in love with all of the little old details. Dating 100s is a lot of fun, like a detective game. Much gratitude to Dominic Rothemel’s comprehensive pelikan-collectibles.com website. It’s a lovely rabbit hole!
The four-chick logo is a quick binary indicator for pre/post-1938. Also acrylic vs. cellulose acetate barrel and piston knob (knurled ebonite vs smooth celluloid). Also celluloid vs. ebonite cap.
But there’s still a lot of years and clues to knock out. She’s old, but exactly how old?
Second major clue for the vintage of this old bird is the four breather holes in the cap. The first generation (‘29-31) had two holes. The four holes only lasted from ‘31-33.
Third was the grip section. First generation was Bakelite and the window was very dark, or just is now due to aging. The legendary Osman Sumer showed me his at the DC Pen Show. That window is DARK. Anyway, this section is symmetrical and made of ebonite unlike later tapered versions. Rothemel states the transition from Bakelite to ebonite was June 1931.
Last and I forgot was the cap top. Originally it was cylindrical with parallel lines from bottom to top until curving to finial dome. In mid 1931 they changed to the tapered cap top and it stayed that way to the end.
So there you have it. Just a little bit of love and now she’s not in bad shape for about 95 years old!
Looking at my first Souverän and trying to nail down two decisions: body size and nib width. I write with a relatively fine line (~0.4–0.5mm effective) and most of my experience is with Japanese pens, so I'm calibrating against Pelikan's reputation for running broad and wet.
Nib width: My understanding is Pelikan gold nibs run about a full size broad for the marking; an F writes ~0.55–0.6mm, so the EF is the realistic starting point for someone who writes at a Japanese M width. Does that match your experience? And does the M200 steel F genuinely run finer/drier than a Souverän F, or is that overstated?
M600 vs M800 vs M1000 nib character: This is the fork I'm less sure about.
For M1000 owners: does the EF genuinely land in F–M territory? Is the softness a feature or something you have to manage?
And for anyone who's owned both M800 and M1000; which one won long-term?
M800 vs M805: Same pen, rhodium trim vs gold-plated. Anything functional I'm missing, or purely aesthetic?
Appreciate measured line widths if you have them
Hi, this is my first experience of the Pelikan Hub. Does anyone know when we can expect the next communication about events?
I have to downsize I have some random Pelikan things, obtained decades ago. I don't know if they are the kinds of things people buy or might be better as consolation gifts for contests...I guess I could upload pictures.
I’m not an expert collector but like old fountain pens very much. Not just Pelikans but also really old Montblancs, Soenneckens, Watermans, Parkers, etc.
There is something fascinating about the really old ones that are a bit more difficult to find and even better if it’s just that occasional lucky strike.
For me the four chick logo on old Pelikan fountain pens is a detail that makes the pen more interesting.
I have managed to find three pens of different 100/100N variations. I’ve also found a cap with the four chick logo and hope to find the correct pen for it in the future.
What is your favourite Pelikan hunt?