r/PowerWheelsMods

It started last week when I built a custom 14.8v 16.8Ah 4S4P battery pack with 16x molicel p42a 21700 and a JBD BMS. The battery needed to roughly fit in the same area as the 12v lead acid, and the BMS was the exact width (depth wise), so I had to incorporate the front battery holder bar into my design. I'll post those pics near the end.

Now to yesterday - a full rewire (the drive motors now go through the fusebox), new light bar, a car horn (had to tape it up to reduce the sound, was quite loud), and some LED halo lights where the fake lights were in the front. I had to use a buck converter to bring the circuit down to 5v to power an ESP32-C3 for the halo lights, also built a small web app to control them by connecting to the wifi network that gets broadcasted by the device. I spent the entire day yesterday working on this.

I didn't take a picture of the fusebox after I installed the esp32 but I will include a mounting pic, under a thermal foam pad. I'll need to probably find a way to keep it held in place and shield some of the wires but it should be fine for now.

I included pics of the web app as well, it's got quite a few light patterns, probably more to come, but it remembers the settings too when you turn off the BMS and turn it back on.

My grandson saw a monster truck and saw the roll cage and thought his All Wheel Drive powerwheels needed one. So this weekend we fabricated a cage and added some emergency lights.

I have this gearbox that one of the gears has busted teeth. Can someone help me identify it or the gears in question for replacement? It’s an off brand Frozen car with one drive motor on the right rear wheel.

Hello!
I just started this journey and got myself one of those Makita 18V battery adapters. And what shall I say? It drives a lot faster. I hope my kids won’t crash. But, i noticed the engines become really hot. Are there any suggestions on getting the heat away? Modded an Peg Perego Polaris Outlaw

So I unplugged everything and got the wires undone. I removed all of 20 something bolts going up into the body but the rock slider still wouldn’t move. Someone said there’s something like three body bolts that I might’ve missed anyone know anything about this? I need to replace the motor on the driver side. I bought the motor and the install is easy. I just need to get the rock slider off.

Ordered a 500w brushless motor, still 24v, for my sons ride on car. The motor lists at 3,000rpm. The brushless motor the car came with appears to be identical in physical measurements so i believe the new motor will plug into the differential of the car. I have a controller I think will power it. I’m not certain of the rpm of the original motor but I think maybe 1000-1500rpms? It is definitely 180w. Has anyone gone down this road before ?

The ones I got off Amazon have a much larger irreplaceable pinion. Can anyone link one that fits? Thanks.

Finally finished my second mod, my first one was a range rover and this one is a toyota tundra i got for 20 bucks. Its an old power wheels model but I honestly think it is far superior than the new ones. Its much more solid, bulkier and spacious. The electric harness seems better quality too, every LED light kept working with the exception of one, the switches feel sturdier and the cables seem better quality.

I decided that for this mod I was going to go all out, I was going to break it down completely paint it, re wire the harness so it works with a 24 volt drill battery, change the motors and connect the bar light directly into my 12 volt circuit (originally it operates with batteries).

It definitely was a longer project but from what I learned here are my suggestions.

1. Buy good quality connectors for both thicker and smaller cables. I think the biggest pain was cables getting constantly disconnected when applied the minimal amount of force
2. Get a heat gun and heat shrink tubing
3. Get a multimeter so you can see that the voltage is being properly set
4. Get a 12v working battery and plug it in directly so you can see what is working in terms of lights, stereo, speakers, etc
5. Take before and after pictures so you can reference how things were plugged in
6. the 24 to 12 volt converter doesnt have to live in the console, for this build i placed beneath the seat and just carried it through with a longer cable.
7. Get good cables that are not too thick. 24volts you definitely want something sturdy bot dont go over kill because it will be an issue to tie some of these to the existing harness.

I am adding the links to some of the things i bought

• 24v to 12v converter
• multimeter to test the voltage of your circuits
• heat shrink tubing
• Wire Connectors I got these but honestly a lot of them kept falling out I think it may be worth getting an actual crimper tool since I was using pliers for that.
• LED to fix the strip that was busted
• Terminal Block for my 12 volt circuit i got a bigger one but honestly it wasnt necessary, you honestly need 2 spaces for your entire set of 12 volt devices since the cables are so thin you can tie all the reds together and all the blacks together and place the connector on top

I will try to map the circuit as best as I can

Original state

Disassembled

Updated harness

Close up of my 12 volt circuit

Installing the new harness into my painted car the control unit, 24vto12v converter and drill battery harness are bolted to the vehicle.

https://preview.redd.it/1otqukvrxkih1.png?width=3024&format=png&auto=webp&s=d65a53383e8e4e403b5c8a6d2e362ed20cffa2df

https://preview.redd.it/7hh0kmhsxkih1.png?width=3024&format=png&auto=webp&s=62b0be01a4aa11139107f02a73d2ab952b50a0cb

https://preview.redd.it/xgfmb9deykih1.png?width=4032&format=png&auto=webp&s=9b4fd14a9912f7c978723c80f32e8473becff637

Hi all!
I was given a freddo ride on and increased the power (plus led lights!) subsequently blowing the radio, got a new radio and a 12v buck converter, any idea on where in the circuit the buck converter should be installed?

I was thinking in the dash just before the radio, however this car also has headlights and a horn and worried they’ll eventually burn out with 24v.

This sub and people are so helpful, thanks to the community both my kids love their cars and a few of the neighbourhood kids have a hoot ripping around the block!

(Once it’s sorted out I will be putting in proper splice connectors)

We have a Voltz Toys 24v CanAm that we have only used a handful of times. When driving it the radio and horn cut out and my daughter is gutted. I pulled the radio faceplate off and found a loose yellow cable but have no idea where it goes.

If anyone can offer a image or insight as to where I connect this that would be great!

I checked and it's not the connect between the wheel and radio, there is no start up sound either.