r/ProjectHondas

Hi, I've got a Civic Sport (EP2) that's bone stock (D16V1). I've been considering doing some minor things like getting an intake and exhaust at some point in the future. I know some people run headlight intakes and I do think those look cool but they're probably a bit impractical for a daily. However, I do have some gaps in my bumper (circled in yellow) that I believe are used for optional foglights. Since I don't have foglights I was considering using one of these holes for an intake (seems someone else has had the idea because I found a scoop on eBay). My main query is, since I live in the rainy UK, is the lower end of the bumper too low for an intake and risky for water ingress? Pics attached to hopefully make my point clearer.

The end of my clutch cable popped out the other day, I couldn’t get the og cable to work afterwards so I got a brand new one. After putting the new cable in there is still too much slack. With the adjuster nut fully tightened there’s still an inch of play in the wire. whenever I press the clutch in there’s a few inches of dead play then a bunch of tension- second I press on the tension the ball pops out of the transmission arm. (D16z6/stage three clutch/og transmission)

Any ideas what’s going on?

Previously had a jdm b16a in the car when I bought it. Ref would not pass for an "engine change" but if it was a del sol it counts as a "replacement engine" because of the del sol vtec.

In March I found a tuner that had a usdm 2001 b18c1 for sale and was willing to rebuild it for a higher price. Opted to have it rebuilt with as many oem parts available. Had skunk2 stage 1 tuner cams added along with supertech valvetrain parts. Bolt-on parts include skunk2 intake manifold, comptech icebox, 66mm throttlebody, dc ceramic header(very hard to find but found a dude in la selling one for $50) all with carb numbers. Originally had an ls transmission that I had rebuilt with carbon synchros and mfactory lsd while engine was out.

Took 2 tries to pass with the ref. The first time my tps wasn't installed or calibrated correctly and I had high HC/NO. Timing marks were also not visible. After calibrating the tps and doing a tuneup (old wires and spark plugs from the b16) I got the car tested and barely passed at a smog shop and was sent back to the ref. Did an oil change before the retest due to fuel possibly dumping and not being burned off. Took some paint markers to mark the timing marks before my appointment and just passed with flying colors today!

Cheers to being able to enjoy this old Honda for another 34 years! Also it's getting hard to find smog shops that will do the dyno and sniffer these days.

The only time and condition it smokes, absolutely dawging on it. No other time does it smell like oil or smoke. Ive replaced the valve stem seals and I’ve tried my research and had no prevail. Anyone else have this problem!? (I hit rev limiter in second clip.)

got the pedals back in (no pics of everything together due to frustration lol) the the reservoir in and clutch line in and chillin. banged out the frame
for alternator clearance and should be ready to drop in sometime this weekend.

got the rear mount in also

Picking up this automatic 1995 civic ex coupe to try and pull out as many parts as possible for my manual 1994 civic cx hatchback. What do yall recommend I pull.

SECOND TIME POSTING!!
I have damn near the whole motor pulled apart to replace the head gasket on my 1.5 civic. Been trying to remove this bolt for weeks. Broke the harmonic balance when I was using the balancer tool that holds it in place. Then I welded a mount to it so the motor wasn’t moving when I was trying to remove the bolt. I’ve used a 90psi 3/4” air impact with a giant 5’ air tank. Tried a 3/4” impact with the lisle socket. I’ve used a 2’ 3/4” breaker bar with cheater bar on it, tried soaking it in wd40, put tons of heat on it. Tried a 2500 PSI 1” impact with weighted socket. Hasn’t moved at all. Any more ideas?

It doesn’t feel like it pulls to the left as it should but it does shift back and forth going highway speeds. Start throwing ideas at me fellas! (2000 Honda civic hatch)

I finally got all the parts went on to do the power window conversion on my dx. Took me a couple hours and a rerun to the junkyard, but I got done! For anyone that wants to know, you can use the floor harness from the ex sedan if you cant find a coupe one without issues and heres the relay part # if you need it since no part store has results for 'power window relay' 25-0279. I will answer any questions to the best of my ability if you have any🫡

Psa-this is my other account

Started with the exploded heater hose replace, distributor,wires,fuel filter ,fuel pump,injectors,mani ontake,map sen., iacv,new throttle,replaced busted radiator,oil pan gasket/rtv,new pvc and breather oring,crankshaft seal, new timing belt also timed. What could be my issue, the car wont accelerate properly also kinda over revs just not jumping any more. Gonna get a psi tester when i get extra funds! Also are hondas supposed to get hot quick ? It running 200*dg in 10 mins

Was tightening the nuts onto my b16 valve cover and the inner bottom right bolt snapped, not sure how, because less than 6ft lbs was going thru it, heres a picture. Im not sure what bolt to get or how to even get this out. Cant use vise grips as they just slip.

Two new noises, the first seems like bearings and the last I don’t know it’s towards the end of the video like a humming noise. My radiator fan is off in this video.

Honestly don’t know what this is but it’s plugged near dizzy, just hoping someone’s seen this before, it was loose in the engine bay just plugged into main harness over the trans and nothing else