r/SN95Mustang

I have the option to buy this 94-04 removable hardtop, I plan to finish it myself, should I go for it or just skip it, I’m on the fence. (Price is $850)

So my 97 has been sitting in storage for the past almost 2 years due to me waiting for bilateral hip replacement surgeries which took my ability to walk and especially drive until they're done. The car hasn't been started the entire time while sitting and had no issues before being parked. My concern is when I am able to get back in and drive will I need a complete rebuild or drain all fluids and attempt starting. I know i will have to look at hoses and electrical connections before attempting to drive again but anyone have anything similar thats happened as far as sitting for this long and then getting the car going again?

We just got done with a photoshoot for our new SVE 18" DHP1 Wheels and figured you all would like this combo on our Opal Frost SN95.

Planning on having a shop install long tubes a h pipe and tune my 98 cobra, any thoughts on price range for install and hp gains? More concerned with price, and if it would be worth it to install myself, thanks!

97 mustang GT 4.6l sohc automatic.

When im coasting this noise starts. If I give it gas and accelerate it will go away. Only happens sometimes during coasting at low rpm.

Update: after market idle air control valve is causing this. Resonance issue which can be solved by using a smaller hose or you can put a zip tie around the idle air control hose, and just pinch it slightly. See attached link

https://stangnet-com.cdn.ampproject.org/v/s/stangnet.com/mustang-forums/threads/resonate-noise-from-iac-valve.866051/?amp=1&amp_gsa=1&amp_js_v=a9&usqp=mq331AQIUAKwASCAAgM%3D#amp_tf=From%20%251%24s&aoh=17791488961385&referrer=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.google.com&ampshare=https%3A%2F%2Fstangnet.com%2Fmustang-forums%2Fthreads%2Fresonate-noise-from-iac-valve.866051%2F

Update Again: cable ties helped, but seem to loosen with multiple drives because of engine bay heat. Removed those and I am attempting a hose clamp instead, if I dont report back it works.

Ended up going with a 10w-30 high-mileage synthetic blend. Also replaced the radiator fan motor since it took a dump. Washed and ready for a car show tomorrow.

Hey guys. Long story short I got this car handed down to me. The original motor was rebuilt, specifically I’m not sure what all has been done to it. It has not run since the rebuild, only started but it has always had an idling issue. It has bbk long tubes with an off road X-pipe and BBK exhaust. When I got it I put a battery in it, changed the oil, high performance fuel pump and new tank on it. Before me it had been sitting for at least 5 years. I have some new wheels and tires coming and then I was gonna send it off to a shop. In the video I was revving it to keep it alive. My question is could the lack of a tune cause it to not idle at all? Do you guys hear anything concerning? Sorry, I’m a novice to this and again I am sending it off to a shop, but wanted some opinions if there is anything I could do my self for it to make the bill a bit cheaper. Thanks in advance.

I changed the oil cooler gas. But im still getting oil in radiator. No water in the oil. Need advice on oil cooler delete kit. Or oil filter housing with no cooler

Just wanted to say thanks to the community and especially the people who helped me narrow down the issues I was having a week or so ago. I finished the repair of all of my vacuum lines, and then I checked the timing. It was about 30 degrees off. Thing runs incredibly now. Like, for real. You guys are incredible. Thank you.

Went for a chill drive 15ish minutes and came back to a bubbling noise. I topped up the coolant since it looked low could it just be an air pocket? Still learning this car out just rebuilt it after buying it crashed. The temp guage seems stuck on C so hoping it didn’t overheat

I recently took ownership of my fathers 1998 cobra as he is too old to drive the car now. It makes 550 to the rear wheels with a blower and aftermarket heads and internals. I am slowly bringing the car back to life and learning that in the early 2000’s my dad just put pretty much anything you could on the car.

The car has a MM Panhard bar in the rear but also has aftermarket control arms and sway bar, which the install guide says specifically not to do. It’s currently fouling the rear end on hard launches and who knows what else.

My question is, for spirited canyon driving and maybe an autocross event at some point, would you go back to stock control arms, or remove the Panhard bar? Picture of the car for attention

The locator nub on the driver side motor mount is about halfway to the hole on the kmember but the passenger side is sitting flush. Bmr regular k member with heavy duty motor mounts from lmr. (First two pics are passenger second two are driver)

not sure wtf happened but I’m worried bout it :/