r/Saturn_Cars

Hi everyone! I’m currently looking at a Saturn SW on sale for about $6,000 out the door. It has 44k miles. I really love the car but not sure if it’s a really dumb idea for what the car is worth. I’m in a HCOL city so even cars with 200k+ miles go for 4-5k.

Low mileage, one owner 5spd manual SC2 sat for a decade in mild LA, CA weather. Woke it up a month ago and have been slowly going through all the systems, performing general maintenance. In general, it runs great and everything (other than the moonroof) works.

What mileage should I be getting? Just measured 26.6 mpg and thought that low. Have driven a combo of city stop ‘n go + some fwy stop ‘n go (hellish!), and clear fwy driving. One thing I have NOT done is replaced the fuel filter.

Thoughts/advice?

PS: this thing is such a fun little car. Having a great time driving it around 😁🏎️

Working on a 2006 saturn ion redline 2.0l supercharged. My main issue has been finding parts OE or performance throughout this whole project. I assume i'm not the only one, that being said can anyone point me in the right direction as far as sourcing parts.

I bought the car second hand about a year ago and I’m definitely not complaining but the bass on the sound system is quite loud. I have the eq adjusted slightly on the treble and mid but the bass is on the default and with most bass heavy songs it seems very powerful, louder than any other car I’ve played music in. Is this normal with these makes or does it have aftermarket speakers put in?

I bought a SC2 from my brother for 400 bucks, the thing is the clutch seems to just barely start to grab half way up and it only really starts to grab the last quarter of travel. Ive tested it by throwing it in 5th on a steep hill starting at about 30mph and flooring it uphill and there was no chattering or slipping. It just continuously accelerated as expected. Also done on a level road, slow to fast in 5th no slipping.

Id like to know if the clutch engagement is just higher than what Im used to, or if maybe its on its way out but just barely hanging on at the moment? It just feels like it grabs really high at the end of the travel and that is the only thing that is making me question it.

Hi!

Just a girl in her early 20s with her 2000's car from highschool trying to fix it. Anyways, my car has been leaking lightly for the last like 2 years and I've dropped to much money at mechanics to fix it and it not being fixed. If I have a combination of YouTube and reddit I feel confident in basic car repairs, I've done some minor work for it myself but just cosmetic or routine maintenance.

My most recent theory?

The oil plug leaking, but after changing it out it's still leaking nearby and it appears to be coming from above. I'm going to the store to get the materials to lift my car up to get under and look more at it. (Any tips to be extra safe are appreciated)

Next best guess?

The sealant of the oil pan, but either I can't see it or the Saturn model doesn't have an oil pan like that.

Any issues others have faced or any tips to resolve is very helpful.

ETA: Typo in title, code is p2138

Hi all, it's hot weather season again where I live, meaning this code has started to rear its confusing head again 🫠

2007 Ion 3 2.4L, 218900 mi

Brief backstory:

• all sunroof drains were disconnected for an unknown amount of time, and there were a couple leaks in my firewall as well. The latter was fixed ~2017ish, the former wasn't properly discovered and fixed until ~2021-2022

• this code would originally pop up when my carpets were soaking wet after rain

• pedal has been replaced twice and that temporarily fixed the issue both times, but **no water was ever leaking on the pedal itself**. Only the wiring harness under the carpet was ever wet, but that was wrapped in plastic after the first replacement since they only fixed the code issue and sent me elsewhere for the leaks

• once the leaks were fixed, it occasionally comes up in cold humid weather (i.e. when it was raining), but leaving the pedal unplugged overnight seemed to appease it

However, since 2022, it now happens almost never in cold weather, and it *only* comes on in 80°+ weather, and 90% of the time, only when making a left turn 🤦🏼‍♀️ I can clear the code immediately, but it put my car into limp mode, which is really not safe when it decides to come on right as I hit an onramp, or when I'm turning left from a center turn lane 🥲 the hotter it gets, the more frequently it happens, until about ~100° at which point it happens less?? I wasn't able to test that since last summer was very mild, but we'll see this year. At this point I plug in my code reader when I start my car and drive it around with the code reader on my lap 💀 but that's obviously NOT ideal lmao

My car has some other (significantly less sketchy) heat related quirks too lol:

• aux port cuts out if I go over rough road or train tracks, (can fix by pushing the seek buttons together)

• shifter solenoid will sometimes refuse to unlock my key from my ignition when I turn off my car when it's just getting warm after winter, or peak summer when it's 90°+ (can fix by jiggling the button, there's a more permanent fix that involves taking apart the center console or cutting a hole in it, can't be assed enough to do it lol)

• driver door lock gets sticky in 85°+ weather, have to lock and unlock manually (haven't taken the time to take apart the door, but I already tried replacing the lock and that wasn't enough)

So before I drop money on another new pedal, has *anyone* had this issue, or even something similar?? Can anyone explain why it's primarily only when I'm turning left???? I don't understand how a new pedal would even help since the pedal itself has been replaced since the firewall leaks were fixed, and the disconnected sunroof drains never even came close to leaking on the pedal connection. If it was the wiring harness, the pedal replacements wouldn't have fixed the issue temporarily in the first place.

Even despite this issue, I love my car and this problem is worth fixing. I just got my timing kit done a few months ago and it was the best $1200 I've ever spent, so I'm looking for a real solution.

Hey there - I'm not super mechanically savvy but have done enough automative stuff over the years that a friend of mine asked me for some advice. So he has a 2004 Saturn Ion that is not starting. He notes that when he turns the key, the lights and power comes on, but it won't engage the starter. He also said that his clutch pedal does not depress all the way. He had a clutch pedal issue some years back and had a mechanic replace the actual clutch pedal and the position sensor, so I imagine that is probably fine.

I'm wondering if his clutch master cylinder has failed, and it's preventing him from depressing the clutch pedal far enough to engage the position sensor. Before going to his house and taking a peek around, I was wondering if any of you had any guidance. I was also wondering if it would make sense to climb under the dashboard and try to depress the position sensor manually while starting it to see if that helps confirm a busted cylinder.

I'd be super thankful for any pointers. My friend is down financially right now and just trying to save him a ridiculous mechanical fee. Thank you!