

Finally changed my SSD
Hell Yeah ! Never enough space ! For those who have the Corsair 2 Tb like me, is the performance are better?!


Hell Yeah ! Never enough space ! For those who have the Corsair 2 Tb like me, is the performance are better?!
Ever since I got my Steam Deck, I’ve never been fully happy with the ABXY buttons or D pad compared to my Flydigi Vader 4 Pro. The Vader buttons feel way more tactile, responsive, and satisfying without being overly loud or stiff.
I started looking into the ExtremeRate clicky kit, but after watching reviews and tearing down my Vader 4 Pro myself, I think the kit might feel closer to the Vader’s C/Z buttons instead of the main face buttons. The switches and sound seem really similar.
The problem is I actually don’t like the C/Z buttons much. They feel too sharp, rigid, and “pure microswitch” to me. If the Steam Deck mod feels like that, I’d honestly rather keep the stock membranes.
What I’m looking for is more of a softer tactile/contact-switch feel like a good mouse switch or the main buttons on the Vader 4 Pro responsive and tactile, but not super clicky or loud.
I attached a video example of the sound/feel I’m looking for.
Are there any other mods out there besides ExtremeRate that get closer to that kind of feel? Or maybe different switches people swap into the kit?
After a year of slate and atomic purple buttons, I modded to atomic purple and lime green buttons. I know, not everyone’s cup of tea but I’m happy :)
Kept the power and volume buttons black just in case I want to go to all black buttons at a later date (you have to remove the mid frame to get to these ones).
Gives me Teenage Mutant Ninja Turtles vibes.
The entire process took 30 minutes which removing the screen took 20 minutes and was the hardest part. The decksight AMOLED is worth every penny it's just awesome
After seeing so many awesome builds here, I finally pulled the trigger and gave my Steam Deck the Extremerate full shell treatment.
I won’t go deep into the assembly process and tips since that’s been covered a lot on this sub (and honestly, those posts helped me a ton, so thank you all).
What I didn’t find much info on though was the clear orange shell. I was a bit hesitant ordering it not sure how it might look in real life.
Happy to report: it looks fantastic.
Photos really don’t do it justice. If you’re on the fence about this color specifically, I’d 100% recommend it.
Also, for anyone thinking “this is probably too advanced for me”, I felt the same way going in. But with patience (and a bit of courage opening it up the first time), it’s absolutely doable. This didn’t feel like pro-only mod to me.
Eyeing the DeckSight screen upgrade for my LCD next. 👀
If you’re considering doing it and have questions or doubts, feel free to ask. Happy to help however I can.
Hi team!
I recently finished up a case swap for my LCD Steamdeck, overall I had a good experience but I'm having some issues with my battery upgrade.
For reference, I bought a 53wH battery upgrade to pair with my DeckSight OLED screen replacement. Both went well and the install was seamless!
My issue is that the Extremerate shell is too thin to fit the extra thickness of the battery... I didn't discover this until I was ready to fit the rear shell.
Everywhere I looked online seemed to indicate that it should fit well, there are videos and tiktoks of people having no issues.
What I'm after is some suggestions for a case manufacturer that someone can confirm is compatible with the increased battery thickness from a 53wH battery upgrade.
Has anyone had success with this mod in the past?
Edit: Spelling + Context.
Hey everyone. I've seen this beat to death in my brief search of the subreddit so I'll explain my situation quickly and end with the question you all know is coming.
I don't personally use my wifes steamdeck as i prefer to play on PC and my hands are large enough that holding it is not comfortable due to the way i have to crunch in my thumbs and how small the shoulder buttons are.
That being said, she's beginning to have heat issues while playing her games. Some of it i attribute to a cheap USBC only dock that splits out to the HDMI for TV usage (she doesn't do handheld either), due to the deck itself resting against the dock with only about half of the intake vent exposed.
Now the question: would a full back plate replacement with better venting help this or would it be better to go full DIY with some of the improved copper sinks and new thermal pads on hotspot surface/components?
I also just debated buying her a dock with a fan built into it like the one from jsaux.
What do you guys think would be the best option?
The Steam Deck OLED is great out of the box, but I wanted to squeeze every bit of performance and precision out of it. Here’s the final list of mods for my current build:
• Storage: Swapped in a 2TB SSD to keep the full library local.(a little bit overkill for me maybe😁)
• Controls: Elecgear TMR sticks with a pop of orange (eXtremeRate). They feel incredibly smooth and will never drift (i upgraded hall effect ones from HandheldDiy before)
• Thermals: Replaced the stock paste with a PTM7950 phase-change pad. The fan stays much quieter during heavy sessions.
• Display: Added a JSAUX anti-reflective protector. It cuts glare perfectly without washing out the OLED colors and staying glossy.
No deadzones:
Hardware is only half the battle. I went through and created per-game Steam Input configs to counter specific anti-deadzones. Combining this with the TMR sticks makes the aiming and movement feel "raw" and extremely snappy.
It’s not the flashiest Deck on Reddit, but it’s exactly how I want it to feel. Happy to answer any questions 🙂
Super solid construction (see last .gif of me flipping this thing around.)
Pro(s): Dual screen desktop mode, or playing handheld NDS/3DS/WiiU.
Stands on its own, lightweight, low profile, single cable, low latency.
Gyro is really fun in games that support it. (OOT, MM, WindWaker, New Pokemon Snap, StarFox Zero, Etc.)
Downside(s): I haven't found a screen that supports passthrough charging which means there no charging and playing at the same time unless you add a USBC Dock and some more cables and make it look ugly and unwieldy.
The rear kickstand + a table + Steam Controller (2026) is pretty nice way to keep playing while charging, but removes all handheld portability of this setup. Hasn't been much of an issue though, the screen only consumes ~5 watts and you can power limit the deck itself to sip power during emulation and get awesome battery life for long play sessions between charges.
Inspired by: u/Responsible-View-365's post: https://www.reddit.com/r/SteamDeck/comments/1ok6nam/3d_printed_dual_screen_mod_for_jsaux_mod_case/
>ALL PARTS:
>* JSaux Modcase: https://jsaux.com/products/modcase-for-steam-deck-pc0104?variant=43680549372124
Note: I use the Basic Set that comes with the kickstand. I don't use the included silicone battery strap because I use the 3D printed part below in its place.
>* 3D printed slide-on attachment: https://www.printables.com/model/1201712-steam-deck-phone-mount-for-jsaux-case
Note: DO NOT use the magsafe ring included in the PRINTABLES link above, we are only using the 3D printed plastic part from the above link, we instead want an articulating magnetic mount so you can extend and angle the screen around the SteamDeck vent. See the "magsafe mount" link below:
>* Magsafe Mount: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0DHG2MJNM
Note: You will need a pair of flush cutters to get the hinge of this mount to fit in the circle portion of the 3D print. or you can modify the .stl if you want, but it would affect how it prints. I found it easier to just cut away a tiny bit of plastic.
>* USBC powered touchscreen: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0DF1P542S
>* USBC cable: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0D5H9MQ5C
Note: "Up Angle" was preferred. I attempted the "U-Shape" but it had a weird kink to the cable when used. Returned it for the "Up Angle" which is what is used in this post.
List of mods I’ve done so far
Gulikit replacement joysticks
eXtremerate clear shell swap front and back
eXtremerate clicky button replacement
Icepc ssd heat sink
Steamdeck oled style fan to replace lcd one
Cooldeck copper sheet
IC graphite cooling pad
I did a full shell swap and now my STEAM button seems to be pressed always and this causes none of the other inputs to work. Has anyone else seen this issue? AI says I probably need to buy a replacement daughterboard.
Copied the last body and reposted it. I redid the heat sink for the apu with minus pad extreme 2. I also need to say with this copper mod and the jsaux backplate, replace with a pad with a thickness of 1mm. When using .5 mm I had no contact.
Cooldeck Cooper plate mod, icepc graphene copper plate for 1tb micron ssd. Jsaux atomic purple v2 case full shell replacement. Gulikit joysticks. extremerate clicky button kit. Used duronaut thermal paste and thermal grizzly minus pad extreme 2. Im running cryodeck and decks loader. Thermals max around 75c.
Copper plate
https://www.tindie.com/products/low\_budget/cooldeck-cooling-mod-for-valve-steam-deck-lcd-oled/
Ssd heat sink
2 tb SSD, tmr joysticks, clicky face buttons
So basically I got a little impulsive and brought a button swap kit from extreme rate for my steam deck only to realize it says OLED only for the buttons. I have an LCD model that I brought from 2025. Is there any real difference between the two model buttons that I need to worry about it? I want to swap everything but the touchpads.
After/Before
Cooldeck Cooper plate mod, icepc graphene copper plate for 1tb micron ssd. Jsaux atomic purple v2 case full shell replacement. Gulikit joysticks. extremerate clicky button kit. Used duronaut thermal paste and thermal grizzly minus pad extreme 2. Im running cryodeck and decks loader. Thermals max around 75c.
Copper plate heat sink Https://www.tindie.com/products/low\_budget/cooldeck-cooling-mod-for-valve-steam-deck-lcd-oled/](https://www.tindie.com/products/low_budget/cooldeck-cooling-mod-for-valve-steam-deck-lcd-oled/
Ssd heat sink
Looking for some advice with aligning the OLED’s midframe with the front plate of an ExtremeRate transparent shell.
Everything looks neatly flush for me except on the top left screen side. All the alignment posts are in place from the backside and I can’t find any wires or ribbons that may be getting in the way. From the top side the audio jack also looks aligned to the new shell.
Is it just a matter of putting more force onto the audio jack area or do I need to maybe unscrew the audio board to reseat it?