Also have to do corners around new Bottom windows ( see drawings).
Hi all,
I own a 1910 2 story home in Virginia with stucco siding and 2x4 wall framing. The stucco under the kitchen sink/ along the kitchen wall is bulging out and has been since buying last year. Inspector was mostly useless.
There is no drip screed but at least the stucco doesn’t touch dirt- slab foundation expands out beyond the wall by about a foot. I’d like to consider fixing this along with some other stucco cracks along the wall that are relatively easy to fix.
My suspicion is that at one point there may have been a water leak, or simply moisture buildup behind the stucco with no way to escape. (See missing drip screed)
Either way, I feel I need to address this at some point and figured I might as well install a drip screen around the entire house (and some expansion joints) for long term ownership. I’m fully expecting to find some rot that needs replacing for studs and I’m hoping the wrb is in ok condition and that hopefully there’s a rain screen? There’s no info on when the house was last stucco’d but likely a long time ago, (hopefully pre-asbestos)
I have included some pictures here if you could give me your best insights, from you got this, no biggie, to holy moly you’re screwed. Please share your thoughts so I can be prepared!
I want to stucco the rear of this house and there are some portions around the windows that are wooden and I know they need metal lathe, I need to know what goes above the windows and what goes at the base of the stucco, (weep screed or casing bead) and can I use metal lathe around the wooden parts of the windows and just sandblast or wire brush off the paint on the concrete and put scratch on that or do I need to put metal lathe over the entire thing?
And what should I put at the top of the wall underneath the bricks? Should there be a casing bead there?
Hi, I am hoping to get some advice on some damage that was flagged on our pre purchase inspection. We are trying to get a professional out to look at this but as I have never worked with stucco before I’d like to know what to ask them or make sure they inspect.
The home was built in then late 70’s. We are in Canada so weather does beat up homes.
The damage on the chimney chase is worse about 1 foot from the top, the cap looks good it full one piece with only the attachment and pipe cap as holes. My thinking was this was hail damage or woodpecker that has got worse with age and weather.
The side damage by the roof looks to me looks like poor workmanship when the roof was replaced.
Any help or advice is appreciated.
I've done some searching and I'm struggling to nail down what process I should follow. Per the picture below, there is a spot on my detached garage that I want to repair.
The videos I've watched don't really show a similar example where you can see the wood sheathing. Thankfully, my garage is unfinished so I can tell from the back/inside that the wood is still in completely good shape. I also have gutters on this side so it rarely gets wet.
Is this something I can just use a few layers of Quikrete's pre-mixed stucco patch on or do I need another step because of the exposed wood?
I'm about to install my mini-split on an exterior EIFS (aka Dryvit) wall.
For those not familiar, EIFS is a system that consists of a plywood or OSB sheathing, covered with a foam layer then stucco over the foam.
As I was fastening my electrical conduit bracket, as I was tightening the screw, the bracket actually punctured the surface stucco coating (which was apparently really thin at that particular spot where the bracket was) impressing the bracket into the foam. I've fastened into other locations on the house without this happening, so I know it must be disproportionately thin at that spot - however, regardless it got me thinking of the load from the outdoor unit and how that would be applied - I clearly want to avoid this situation with the actual mini split brackets!!
So the way these mini-split brackets work, when loaded, is they obviously impart a horizontal moment of force against the bottom of the vertical legs into the stucco/foam (while the top horizontal bracket would have the cantilever force tending to pull away from the wall)
What do those of you who have installed on this medium typically do?
I will locate the studs for the horizontal bracket bolts, not just relying on the sheathing substrate for support. That shouldn't require any special treatment as the force will be acting outwards against the bolt head, which will be 'pulling' directly out from the stud. The bottom screws (and the vertical legs themselves) are my bigger concern to avoid the stucco cracking and foam collapsing under the load that is going to be pressing into it. The bolts there, although helping carry some vertical load, are really doing nothing to carry that horizontal component as the force of the bracket is inward, against the stucco/foam - not pulling against the bolt head. I was thinking to predrill a hole and insert a sleeve that fills the space between the stucco skin and the sheathing. This sleeve would then take the load from the bracket directly onto it, and in turn the stud, rather than onto the stucco/foam - could even use a fender washer on the outside bearing against the sleeve. Or perhaps a threaded rod with washer and double nut arrangement would be another possibility.
Thoughts or comments?
New construction, white stucco. Is this how it's supposed to look at night? Daytime is marginally better. I get that shallow angle lighting highlights imperfections, just looking to understand the magnitude of these ones. Thanks!
I’m putting a gate in this space and need the latch post to go on that stucco wall to the right. The only issue is it’s stucco, then cinder block so a lag bolt won’t work.
I’m hesitant to use triple grips or something similar because of tear out. Any ideas for securing a 4x4 post to it? It will sit on a concrete sidewalk so I could use a post base but that’s if there are no other options.
TIA!
And yes I know the fence is a bit crooked, had to avoid a huge root.
So, a few years ago some idiot (me) want a *new,* *sleek, *modern* look and painted over my original-to-the house-79' stucco 3 years ago because I didn't know what I was doing.
This is the result.
I am 99% sure I used an exterior paint supposedly meant for stucco. (I am unsure on the brand, I bought it from Rona). It's held up well. I don't see any issues but I worry I trapped moisture and want to remove it.
I'd also like to take down the ridges and smooth out the texture.
Are there any solvents anyone could reccomend for the paint, or is grinding my only option? (After an asbestos test).
I have all the time in the world for this project.
In some research I located the rapid set stucco patch is this best for my needs. Should I scrape away that whole section and use the rapid set or just patch the cracks?
