r/VinylWrap

I bought a few meters of vinyl wrap for my motorcycle, but I have a few questions because I've never done anything like this before. How do I get rid of the glue residue left after removing decals? It seems a heat gun isn't enough to get the fairing completely clean. And I'd also like to know how I can vinyl wrap the Suzuki emblem area, if it's okay to peel the tank emblem off and stick it back on top of the vinyl

Thank you in advance

Hey everyone! Need opinions. I want to wrap my charcoal gray sport with retro stripes. I have a few options. Problem is my wife hates the red toned stripes, which is the most retro and my favorite. Trying to prove her wrong, which is, in general a losing effort! Haha, not that serious but let me know what this community thinks! Thanks.

Avery 1105/1360. Train graphics for Amtrac and NCDOT. Came out clean!

Been lurking in this sub for a while, and since people here actually get into the technical side of wraps and PPF more than anywhere else I’ve found, figured I’d share what a wrap job looks like on our end instead of just posting a finished car like everyone does.
We run vinyl wrap and PPF daily, and almost every “my wrap is bubbling” or “my wrap is lifting” post I see comes down to one of three things.

Rushed prep is the biggest one. Before any film goes on, the panel gets decontaminated, clayed, and checked under raking light for old wax or swirl marks that’ll trap air under the film. Skip that and it won’t show up on day one, it shows up as bubbling six months later once whatever’s trapped underneath off-gasses in the heat.

Second is heat management, which is its own thing here. Dubai ambient hits mid-40s°C in summer, and panel surface temp in direct sun runs well past that. Film stretched around a compound curve, mirrors, bumpers, anything with a hard character line, needs to be heated and relaxed properly during install, or it tries to shrink back once it’s sitting in a parking lot all day. That step is slow and fiddly, which is exactly why it gets rushed.

Third is seam placement. A seam that lands right on a hard edge instead of tucking into a recess is basically guaranteed to lift eventually. That has to get planned before the first piece goes down, not fixed after.

We actually reject our own work fairly often, if a panel doesn’t pass under raking light or the edges aren’t sitting flat after a day of curing, it gets redone before the car leaves. Slower, but it’s the difference between something that looks fine in photos on day one and something still holding up a year into a Dubai summer.

For anyone wondering, PPF sidesteps a lot of this since it’s usually pre-cut and doesn’t get stretched much, but prep matters just as much, maybe more, since PPF actually shows dust and prep mistakes more obviously under the clear film.

Happy to answer questions if anyone’s dealing with lifting or bubbling and can’t figure out why. Got way more process photos than finished-car photos on our Instagram too if anyone’s curious about the boring parts.

I wrapped my FIL’s F150. Today’s material is a lot easier to work with. The biggest challenge area was between the cab and the truck bed. After 3 attempts was able to get them both done without a seam. Overall turned out pretty good.

hi everyone!
ive been trying to wrap my electric clippers for work! i cannot seem to get it smooth around all the curves as it such a strange shape.. i was wondering if anyone had any tips on how to do this as seamless as possible? tia xx

I’ve mostly done flat glass (and not much of that) I Was helping white out a van for my other company and used sw900. Should I be heating the vinyl to help if the glass has a slight curve?

I know you can’t use water on this since it’s an air release. I know theres some differences and paid for this material out of pocket just to learn more so any advice is helpful

So I had my car wrapped but now there is a weird brown line across the bonnet. There’s also some glue residue near the mirrror that I can’t take off

Any ideas?