Finally done with the head and chest. Painting the internals and fixing the hatch for the pilot cockpit took way too long.
Funnily enough, the chest armour opening gimmick works much better after painting. Before painting it’s kinda loose and jangly; it’s prone to popping out. After painting you do have to pull it out slowly to avoid breakage, but everything is nice and firm.
Swipe right for more angles.
This build took me quite some time. A span of maybe 3-4 months working on it on & off mostly on weekends & some evenings after work I still have to get shots of the fully built model with armor and all eventually when I feel like dragging the Photo Booth back out! Ha ha.
i used a single tiny (0402 smd) green led in the head
the wires can come out behind the neck, under the collar armor and exit around the lower back under the backpack.
next, i chose to add a pair of green 0402 leds to the chesticles,
basically, i used the inner frame's upper attachement ports for chest armor for led placement.
i also cut out small channels in the inner frame to run the wires around the neck and under the armor and join the head unit led wires at the back.
i intentinoally lef the center piece as-is as it has a silver part inside which reflects the light beautifully and it also brings nice contrast to the chesticles' lights.
in the wings i used pink led strip filaments and some specialized 3m glue for rubber and plastic that dries clean. to manage the wires, i modified the support arms for the wings but i had to leave some slack for articulation which unfortunately remains quite visible.
need to find some thinner wires for better results in the future.
all of the wires meet up nicely under the backpack's action base mount and i chose a white transparent 3mm wrapper to tidy them all up, at the end of the main power wire, i added a 100 ohm resistor and a quick connect adapter.
Just got my stickler studio woundwort in the mail and can’t wait to build one of, if not my favorite, designs in gundam. Here to share some of my first impressions and see if anyone else has built the same kit or have similar experiences.
First , it seems that there are 3 types of resin used. 3d printed resin, cast resin, and a grey resin used for the joints. I’ve seen some build vlogs of this kit and don’t remember any printed parts so I’m wondering if that’s a new thing they’ve started doing. It’s used on vfin and a couple hands as well as some duplicate leg pieces. I noticed that there is very little warping on these pieces whereas other builds I’ve seen tend to show some warping in the vfin area.
The second thing I noticed was that there are a ton of tiny pieces as well as a lot of super thin pieces which means that a lot of pieces show some warping. These are especially bad on the clear resin pieces which from my experience are usually softer. I really hate fixing warped parts but these don’t seem to be too bad as they are flat and I can use my table as a flat support.
Third, the actual details on the pieces look very crisp. The lines are a lot deeper than I’m used to and there doesn’t seem to be too much flashing. I’m probably gonna keep rescribing to a minimum as it doesn’t seem to be necessary here.
One thing I wish was included was a better parts list similar to ghs’s easy check. Also everything came packed pretty tightly in a plastic box thing so I wonder if a looser packaging system with more padding could help mitigate some of the warping issues.
I’ve washed the pieces and cut through a couple test pieces and the resin itself seems quite brittle. Not sure if this is common but from other resin kits, mainly fss, I’m usually able to cut through gates like butter using my resin nippers but these seem to crack off if I go too fast.
Coming from static posed kits/conversions, it will be interesting to see how these resin joints hold up as well as the included photoetch pieces.
Sorry for the wall of text but these kits don’t tend to have a lot of info or references out there in English speaking communities so hoping to help out for anyone else interested. For anyone that’s finished this kit, did you have similar experiences or advice for me?
Kabutops x Rebake Gusion Full City High Grade custom Kitbash
I cant get enough of this kit In Era Lizard is one of my favorites this is my 3rd one this time just black and some metallics. Cheers
This guide was made because I couldn't find any documentation,
intended for straight builds, conversion to USB wired power and panel lined armour panels
Currently on Legs inner frame, part of hips and action base
Tools used
Gundam Base starter toolkit
DSPIAE ST-A 3 single bladed nipper
DSPIAE complimentary microfibre cloth
Ray Studio RT-S precision tweezers
Ray Studio reinforced precision tweezers straight
Ray Studio Reality Markers EX
Ray Studio Metallic Markers EX
Ray Studio Marker Eraser
Ray Studio Eraser Stick
Ray Studio Hobby Modelling Knife
2 cans of Mr Hobby Super Clear UV-CUT Gloss
Tamiya Accent Panel Liner Black
Tamiya X-20 Thinner
Soldering Iron (optional)
Multimeter (optional)
Additional Electronics consumed (optional)
JST 2 pin connectors
26 AWG wire
LM2596S buck converter
CN5711 Constant current driver
USB 2.0 male 2 pin pigtail
Soldering guide:
Not completed
Difficult steps
1-7 used clamp + cloth + pinching to close gap
1-9 before putting D20 in, trim internal rail locking bump fully for full internal position
1-18 part 2, D13 very stiff attempting to close gap
2-4 part 3, E2 slightly stiff but it's merely just in an awkward place
4-2 stiff but not exceedingly so, just needs some elbow grease
5-1 difficult to press O1 in fully but it probably won't matter too much, used a clamp, G10 just hurts to put in so use a cloth
5-2 WHY IS O8 SO GODDAMN TIGHT
5-3 the whole of this step is so ass, I struggled the whole time
5-4 tough but not too difficult
5-5 minor instructional mistake but not significant, L1(L2) 21 should be used when referring to both L1 21 parts since L1 and L2 both have only one copy of part 21 but is identical
6-1 sand the pegs for S9 a little before assembly if you want O1 7 and O1 9 to fit flush, expect Sticker 24 solid plastic backing to squeeze out, paint or use just the reflective layer on its own if it happens (it did to me)
42-1 can't fully close gap against interior wall
Loose fit steps:
Not there yet
Known operating power
Operating voltage 3V
Operating current ? (0.3A?) will measure once I've hooked up electronics
This is what you get snap fit minimal work. Now it's time for nub and mold mark removal, going to take it slow to try not to ruin the sharpness of the parts.